started down a long rabbit hole today...t-case, clutch, flywheel, exhaust (1 Viewer)

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g-man

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Sep 5, 2006
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Felt like Alice in wonderland today going down the rabbit hole. pulled the transmission and transfer case, removed the clutch and the flywheel and flywheel housing. Replaced the rear main seal. Tomorrow I will install the new clutch. The old one was 10 year old with 80k on it but really looked pretty good. The reason I pulled it was because of a clucking noise coming from the clutch when I pushed and released the pedal. Also wanted to replace the rear main seal. the grease was mostly gone from the two points of the clutch fork, ..one at the slave cylinder and the other on the ball just inside the flywheel housing. Slight wear inside the cupped shaped depressions. I'll grease it up and put it back. The ball had no wear ...have not checked the slave yet. At least I learned that all I need to do for that again is remove the inspection plate at the bottom and reach up in there.

I need to get some thread sealant for the flywheel bolts. Also I am building a crib out of 4x6" lumber to sit the transmission in ..so I can dis-assemble the transfer case. . so two pieces laid on the ground then the next two pieces 90 degrees to them laid on top of them at the corners or just in from that. maybe just run carriage bolts down in them to pin together. Leaving a space in the middle to accommodate the input shaft.

I had some questions about the operations that the fsm left rather vague.

1. Pulling the t-case shifter. basically in this step the fsm just says to remove the shifter with a picture of a wrench on a nut. I removed the first nut I came to under the floor. the bolt wouldn't budge And the shifter wasn't coming off. Back to the pic ...looks like he's wrenching on the second part of the shifter down further on the transmission where it bolts. I removed this nut and pulled the cotter pin out of the smaller leg that goes back to the transfer case. It came loose but no way is all this thing going back up through the floor. No problem just pulled it down and out..shift boot and all. Once removed I'm still wondering if the first joint is pressed together ?? The head of the bolt has to flats and other two sides curved like semi circles...I guess it's a sst thing? But no reason to remove it now. Right? It can all get shoved back up through the hole. See last pic of the shifter in the vice.



2. Not in the fsm but my flywheel surface had some small roundish to oval black marks and just black swirls mixed evenly with lighter color...burns? I feel no deformity when i rub my hand across the surface. My vehicle makes no shimmy upon release of the clutch.
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It's an 87 fj60. Today I will install the new clutch then start disassembling the t-case. I have a vague roughness/vibration in my vehicle now at idle and when moving and can't pinpoint it. I knew my t-case needed a rebuild for quite a while bc of the whining of the bearings. I pulled the smog pump off couple of days ago to see if that was the issue. Replaced the drive belt while I was there but the smog pump is ok. I checked all the pulleys while I had the belts off ..ie alt, power steering, water pump or at least the fan, a/c compressor... everything turns smoothly. Oil level is right, runs cool, oil pressure is right. Hoping it is something in the t-case. Does the idler shaft have bearings?
 
it has burn marks but no chatter vibration coming off the clutch pedal. No cracks, no grooves. feels flat to the hand but does it need to be flatter than what one can feel? Am i supposed to resurface whenever changing out the clutch?
 
Always a good idea to surface the flywheel when you have have the old clutch out and putting in a new clutch assembly then you know the job is right.
 
the flywheel has a step in it... .025"??? just make sure the machinist has the specs. it should not be totally plane across the face. HTH

Idler has bearings. Idler shaft is a wear part.

Always surface FW when changing clutch disk.
 
Can anyone give me advice on re-surfacing my flywheel?
take it to a shop and have it done.

my local Napa and CARQUEST do flywheels. maybe $30-$50???
 
the flywheel has a step in it... .025"??? just make sure the machinist has the specs. it should not be totally plane across the face. HTH

Where can I find this info in the fsms? I've looked in the back of the 1980 2f and the 84 body and chassis suppliment. I only find run-out specs.
 
Make sure the pilot bearing slides on/off the nose of the input shaft before installing.
 
Lmgtfy...
 
more progress today. Got the split case opened and disassembled. The bad: couldn't readily identify any obvious problems. Cleaned the split cases, Replaced the front output bearing and seal. Got the new bearing on the transmission output shaft. Put the new idler shaft, bearings and orings in place along with new thrust washers. Tomorrow I'll work on the rear output shaft and assembly. And getting the case back together. The good...nothing tore up inside. Splines and gears look good. Nothing damaged by prying or unbolting. Surprised at how many bearings came loose by hand. Had to take a bit of time to figure out where the oiler washer EDIT: correction "oil slinger" went after pulling the front output shaft apart. No real mention of it in the fsm. Quick call to George @ valley hybrids answered my suspicions.
 
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Georg’s video is good. I watched it. I would have liked closer shots and less heavy breathing from the camera man but I dug watching it. ;)
 
Got the rear output shaft disassembled.. Got the rear output shaft pilot bearings out and new one pressed in. Cleaned up the rear output shaft with parts cleaner station, emery cloth lightly and in the splines. the EDIT Clutch hub (not high gear) was really seized up pretty good on the output shaft splines. The splines under the gear looked rusty brown and cruddy but cleaned up really well with no corrosion or pitting. Removed the snap ring and then struggled a bit with a bearing removal clamp and 2 legged gear puller. After several attempts and the puller tilting over...decided it was time to head to the 20 ton press. That was much easier and it came right out. Also struggled today with pulling the seal inside the speedo gear. Finally got it with a hook from a paint can key hooked to the seal and running a tight fitting bolt in from the small hole side of the speedo to put tension against the key. Put the bolt head on a metal table and tapped on the speedo with a small ball peen hammer. Driving the seal up and out. Who needs SST's right? Most of my seals are now in, front and rear races installed.

Pics to come. Hopefully I will have the output shaft assembled and the case back together tomorrow.
 
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