started down a long rabbit hole today...t-case, clutch, flywheel, exhaust (1 Viewer)

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the pre-load is enough on my output shaft that i can't free wheel the companion flange. In other words I can't take my hand and throw or spin it fast to have it moving freely on it's own. It stops a soon as I let go. 1.08 to 1.78 is not a lot of force or tension.

it is not, but you haven't got 1.08 foot pounds of torque on that stack. you're closer to 5/8'#...the companion flange shouldn't freewheel at all, so none of that indicates anything undesirable.
 
just trying to help... BTW...
 
I get what you're saying. Because I pulled with a radius it magnifies the force. I think I need to get a good inch lb torque meter. what size is the stock shim? Seems like this is needed if you want to order a new one to go up or down in pre-load.
 
that is apparent!...the shim you have will have a mark on it that you can match to the table in the fsm to find its thickness...IIRC, you can get a shim kit, use the ones you need and sell the rest. otherwise, you'd have to open the case, id the shim, and get an idea of how much thicker or thinner you need to be to get the right friction.
 
that is apparent!...the shim you have will have a mark on it that you can match to the table in the fsm to find its thickness...IIRC, you can get a shim kit, use the ones you need and sell the rest. otherwise, you'd have to open the case, id the shim, and get an idea of how much thicker or thinner you need to be to get the right friction.

I agree that I would like to do it all at once while I have the drive shafts off. I will order the shim kit, get an appropriate size inch lb torque wrench. Probably reuse the original copper gasket for the output shaft bearing retainer if the new one tears when I pull it. I saved all the copper gaskets. They look much more durable.
 
I ordered a neiko inch lb gauge and got the shims. I took it apart today and replaced the shim. I'm at around 18 inch lbs. Everything torqued back to specs. Seems likes its a little quieter but still hear some undercarriage noise. Probably due to the carpet not being buttoned up tight in the shifter boot shoes. I'll live with it until I either put some sound deadening and or replace the carpet. Happy to have it done. Next up I have to get on the interstate and see if that whistling is gone.
 
when I rebuilt my case, I was shy with the rtv on the gaskets- didn't use it. had to open it back up to reseal the case. once I was convinced it wasn't going to leak, I swapped in the high end mobile 1 gear oil. there is no sense spending good money on oil if it is constantly draining, but if it's tight like a frogs butt, then give it the good goo...
 
when I rebuilt my case, I was shy with the rtv on the gaskets- didn't use it. had to open it back up to reseal the case. once I was convinced it wasn't going to leak, I swapped in the high end mobile 1 gear oil. there is no sense spending good money on oil if it is constantly draining, but if it's tight like a frogs butt, then give it the good goo...

I put in sta-lube G L - 4, 85w90 from NAPA, not the cheapest at about 32.00/gal. but If it goes without leaks may upgrade to synthetic next year.
 
the synthetic stuff surprised me and was actually quieter than conventional oil. I generally do not subscribe to novelty hype. hope you get some good seat time!!!
 
Just to update this thread. The noise I was hearing was not the T-Case but it was a loose exhaust at the flange. When I replaced the exhaust flange stud I used a kit from Advanced Auto. The studs were steel but the nuts were brass. I thought this was a good idea since steel nuts tend to seize on the stud with the heat from the exhaust. But they were too soft and I half stripped one putting it on. the others came loose after a short while. When I tried to tighten them up I could feel them stripping. I remedied by replacing the brass nuts with steel. Everything on the T-Case is working great. The 4wd light was just a loose connection.
 

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