Stalling HJ45 ? (1 Viewer)

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Hi guys, does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this on my HJ 45 diesel slow poke 3.6lt ……when it is cold first thing in the morning when I glow it for 20 seconds Then start then it runs for about 10 seconds then just stops, turn the key again runs for another 10 then stops, third time it starts and it just keeps going.
 
Your glow controller should keep putting power on the glow plugs for some time after starting - maybe it's 10 seconds? I don't know.

Does it keep running if you manually glow it for longer than 10s after starting?
Maybe don't do it continually, but rather pulse in 1s bursts..

Also likely that you're getting a bit of air seeping into the manual pump. Try bleeding after it's been standing and see if you have bubbles
 
Is it possible there is water in the fuel? Have you tried draining any water buildup in the fuel system?
 
Your glow controller should keep putting power on the glow plugs for some time after starting - maybe it's 10 seconds? I don't know.

Does it keep running if you manually glow it for longer than 10s after starting?
Maybe don't do it continually, but rather pulse in 1s bursts..

Also likely that you're getting a bit of air seeping into the manual pump. Try bleeding after it's been standing and see if you have bubbles
Glow for 30 secs……start……stops…..glow again 10 secs…..starts….then stops….turn key again to start (no glow) and keeps running. Next question how do you bleed it? lol might be a video on utube 🤔
 
This is the low oil pressure cut off function of your EDIC (electronic diesel injection control). When the EDIC controller doesnt see oil pressure come up, it shuts down the engine after a short delay. As engines age and tolerances open up it takes longer for oil pressure to come up - especially when cold.

A bit of throttle will help it come up faster but I'm always hesitant to do that. There's no easy solution other than an engine rebuild. You can disable the low oil pressure function if you want. Unplug the Oil Pressure Switch (NOT the pressure sender)..
 
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This is the low oil pressure cut off function of your EDIC (electronic diesel injection control). When the EDIC controller doesnt seem oil pressure come up, it shuts down the engine after a short delay. As engines age and tolerances open up it takes longer for oil pressure to come up - especially when cold.

A bit of throttle will help it come up faster but I'm always hesitant to do that. There's no easy solution other than an engine rebuild. You can disable the low oil pressure function if you want. Unplug the Oil Pressure Switch (NOT the pressure sender)..
Good call.
Do the switches wear out over time? Maybe worth putting a calibrated oil pressure gauge on it to test the pressure.

What's the state of the engine oil and filter?
 
One of my many project designs was to build a pre-oiler for my 72. A quart + pressure can with a fitting in the bottom plumbed into the external oil line. The fitting would have a spring loaded valve I could pull open with a cable.

When I want to build oil pressure prior to starting (when 95% of wear occurs) I would just pull on the cable knob for say a minute - oil in the can would go into the oil lines priming them. After the engine starts I would hold the valve open again for a minute and allow the oil pressure to pump oil back into the can - releasing the valve would seal in the pressurized oil, ready for next time.
 
Do the switches wear out over time? Maybe worth putting a calibrated oil pressure gauge on it to test the pressure.

The switches are typically very reliable. I've not seen a failed one.

The factory gauge is pretty good indication of the delay for oil pressure to come up after engine start - an actual pressure reading may offer some insight into the wear level in the engine though.
 
One of my many project designs was to build a pre-oiler for my 72. A quart + pressure can with a fitting in the bottom plumbed into the external oil line. The fitting would have a spring loaded valve I could pull open with a cable.

When I want to build oil pressure prior to starting (when 95% of wear occurs) I would just pull on the cable knob for say a minute - oil in the can would go into the oil lines priming them. After the engine starts I would hold the valve open again for a minute and allow the oil pressure to pump oil back into the can - releasing the valve would seal in the pressurized oil, ready for next time.
Reminds me of when we broke down in the 70s in a Ford Zodiac. Oil pump spindle sheared off in the middle of nowhere.
My dad rigged up a total loss system with a spare can of oil and the foot pump - don't think my mum was too happy pumping that in the passenger seat all the way home haha
 
Is the glow light supposed to go off after a while ? Or do you just start when it’s glowing red?
 
All the diesels I ever operated the glow plugs were switched on for like 30 seconds to a minute, then off while starting/running. Those were all pre-computer diesels.
 
Is the glow light supposed to go off after a while ? Or do you just start when it’s glowing red?

If your system hasnt been dicked with you'll have system where you turn the key back to glow? If so, it'll glow as long as you have the key turned back. The glow indicator wont go off.. start when its red. My HJ47 takes about 12 seconds.
 

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