You sure it’s not peanut M&M’s?
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (49 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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Awesome movie
Hide-a-key suggestions and solutions?
Hi everyone, as summer kicks in, we’re rafting and SUP’ing. I carry my 2017 LX key in a dry bag but would like to hide one permanently on the vehicle somewhere as a backup. Couldn’t find any threads on this.
1. Best location? I tested the fob in various spots. Some places, the car detects it, like the trailer hitch. I might stick it in the massive LX grill, as the engine seems to block the signal. I will get some sort of waterproof cover. When I had an 01 LX I velcroed a box to the frame under a wheel well, where it stayed for years, but that key required a button push to open a door so blocking the signal wasn’t an issue.
2. Storage box recommendations? Has anyone found a box they like that blocks the key signal and suits the purpose? ( I suppose I could remove the fob battery and put it loose in the box.)
3. Use an actual fob or alternative? I daily use the credit card key and have two fobs, so could hide one fob but it seems like an expensive back up.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Recent camping pic, just for fun. San Rafael Swell, Utah
Hi everyone, as summer kicks in, we’re rafting and SUP’ing. I carry my 2017 LX key in a dry bag but would like to hide one permanently on the vehicle somewhere as a backup. Couldn’t find any threads on this.
1. Best location? I tested the fob in various spots. Some places, the car detects it, like the trailer hitch. I might stick it in the massive LX grill, as the engine seems to block the signal. I will get some sort of waterproof cover. When I had an 01 LX I velcroed a box to the frame under a wheel well, where it stayed for years, but that key required a button push to open a door so blocking the signal wasn’t an issue.
2. Storage box recommendations? Has anyone found a box they like that blocks the key signal and suits the purpose? ( I suppose I could remove the fob battery and put it loose in the box.)
3. Use an actual fob or alternative? I daily use the credit card key and have two fobs, so could hide one fob but it seems like an expensive back up.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Recent camping pic, just for fun. San Rafael Swell, Utah
When I roadtrip by myself, I took the spare fob, removed the battery and key, and stashed it inside the truck in a Ziplok baggie. Then I took the key and ziptied it inside another baggie, under the truck. Sorry for not being more specific. But this way if I lost my fob, I could use the hard key to get the driver's door open (test it!), then get to the backup fob.
They make rfid blocking small bags. Weatherproof may be an option with them too. But regardless, I’d put the fob inside the rfid defeating container and put something redundant on top that’s “weatherproof.” You can get creative with mounting solutions along the frame rails or near the grill, etc. My smooth brain would want something attached with zip ties likely in an accessible but not convenient spot. HTH
Check out faraday defense stuff. The owner knows his stuff about defeating electronic signals, etc and his products seem well made.
I have had my LC for about 2 months now.
I tested out 4Lo and CDL (both on pavement, probably not the best) at the lot before purchasing and everything worked OK.
How often should I be engaging 4Lo and CDL to make sure that the relevant mechanical parts stay greased up and moving correctly? I don't have ready access to offroad trails or dirt roads, so am I safe to engage both functions on say a quiet residential street?
I tested out 4Lo and CDL (both on pavement, probably not the best) at the lot before purchasing and everything worked OK.
How often should I be engaging 4Lo and CDL to make sure that the relevant mechanical parts stay greased up and moving correctly? I don't have ready access to offroad trails or dirt roads, so am I safe to engage both functions on say a quiet residential street?
It does matter as much as where but when. I try to exercise everything every 6 months. Should do it more frequently, 3 months. It might not be more than a quick trip to the grocery store and back for my Tacoma in 4wd high. But that is enough. For low in the Tacoma and the LC down the block on quiet day.
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My approach on this:
1) Paved road or more convenient a corner of a supermarket/mall parking is fine - As long as you drive in a straight line for not a long distance (say 50 feet forward and backwards) there should be no binding to speak off in the drive train.
2) Do it monthly or thereabouts - End up doing it when I wait on my wife in the vehicle at Hobby Lobby or other boring place I stay out off... Typically switch multiple times (3 x) between 4HI and 4LO first (one of the two TC actuators) going forward and backward (typically in a straight line although without central lock fine eitherway). Then I leave in 4LO and repeat switching back and forth and moving using the central lock, going in a straight line only back and forth.
What I do not do is prolonged driving in these modes unless I am offroad, as the main reason to do this is to keep the actuators and electrical contact tracks in good shape. This is achieved by switching back and forth 4HI/4LO and Central Lock On/Off, not by driving around.
Any other thoughts, I am interested to hear.
P.S. I guess the bottom line is that keeping the electrical track and actuator motor in working order you could do this standing still in neutral and just switch 4HI/4LO and Central Lock On/Off multiple times. No need to move back and forth, maybe a feet or two to allow engagement. I will probably do just that going forward.
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Thank you guys as always!
Thanks all for the suggestions. Physical key attached outside and fob inside with battery removed or in a faraday bag - great plan!
Yup. And being 3x locked, I have even more buttons to exercise from time to time. My wife accidentally locked the front axle at the dog groomers and then pulled out into traffic. Nearly plowed into the oncoming lane because the truck wouldn't steer on pavement lol. That was a fun phone call.
I am trying to install my SLEE main battery upgrade tray per instructions. How do I remove these tiny trim clips/fender rivets without breaking them? They attach to another piece of (upper) fender liner.
The idea is to pry up the center with a pick or tiny flathead screwdriver, then wiggle it out. But you will break some, its unavoidable. I keep a big sack of these in the garage.
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bloc
SILVER Star
The ones in your link are actually much easier.. you just press in the center and it'll release.. then push the pin back out before reinstall, and make it flush again when in place. There are others in the fenders that have to be pried up, but the more spherical engine-cover ones can just be pressed.
The parts @crunchybacon referenced are actually closer to a pop rivet.. From memory if you get the right sized punch you can push the center through the back and it will release. Strangely they aren't listed as a separate part number.. they only come with the fender liners.
Alright. So 4Lo works perfectly fine. Zero issues switching into it. Drove for a bit (maybe a residential block) with it engaged to get everything exercised. Normal for the 4Lo camera view to switch off after you start driving or should that be staying on full-time? Does it turn off after a certain speed is achieved?
As for the locker, it was a bit confusing at first but I think I have the following figured out:
- The locker engages fully when in the car is in neutral whether in 4Hi or 4Lo. There is an audible double click when the locker successfully engages and then another double click when the locker disengages.
- If the vehicle is in drive and stopped (brake engaged), then when depressed the locker button will emit a single click and the dashboard locker indicator will be flashing. If you begin to drive the vehicle forward the locker will turn solid.
- if the vehicle is in drive and moving then the locker should engage fully immediately when the button is depressed and you should get a solid dashboard indicator. I count one instance where it flashed for about a second before turning solid.
Granted some of the above may be gremlins resulting from the locker having never been used for 4 years and 30,000 miles prior to my ownership. My hope is that with regular exercising of the system everything will work as intended.
Thanks I took a closer look and they are indeed pop rivets, non reusable. I broke them off and used my own to replace.
nope.
If there is a big incline I'd be more concerned with the gearbox - it is best to apply handbrake before switching to "park" - to avoid unnecessary stress for the gearbox.
bloc
SILVER Star
Incline no, though that can exacerbate a leaky cowl. I can’t remember whether it’s nose up or down.
But, if you park a LC with KDSS with the suspension articulated.. like diagonal across a slight dip, that can do strange things to the KDSS circuit balance. And possibly induce a lean.
