SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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The logic is actually quite compelling. In the dark, your button fumbling over time creates a reliably consistent dirty smudge pattern in that area. In daylight, you now have a place where you can consistently clean small amounts of grease or MIL reset battery pull dirt from your hands without remorse. Think of the unilluminated buttons as an OEM shop towel feature, and revel in the Mr T genius once more.
Yeah, my buttons are not illuminating, I’ll have to dig into it. Thanks.
Mucho pics here:LT315/70R17 , now I'm intrigued. Tell us more. Any pics?
Land Cruiser 200 - Selling - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Wq54CtFj4wUAJNRN9
The shop that installed the wheels, tires, and suspension had to make room for the tires.
Let me know if the tire size sounds unrealistic, and I'll double-check the receipt.
Guess I scraped the rear differential drain plug somewhere in Windrock. It appears the seal started leaking probably on Friday when I made a 275 mile round trip to pick up my daughter from college.
I put a socket on it and turned it a smidge. Hoping that stops the leak for the moment. Assuming I just need to swap the diff drain plug and gasket and make sure the hole is rounded again? Or for others who have done this do I need to worry about the diff threads or anything else? Any better protection out there?
I put a socket on it and turned it a smidge. Hoping that stops the leak for the moment. Assuming I just need to swap the diff drain plug and gasket and make sure the hole is rounded again? Or for others who have done this do I need to worry about the diff threads or anything else? Any better protection out there?
I did that at LCDC. I just used a dremel to repair the outer ring and just installed a new crush ring with the same plug. Has worked fine for the last few months with no leaks.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I'm having LX envy...again. Does anyone know if the LX's dome light will drop-in replace the LC's for the same year?
I could look up the LX part and see if I can figure it out. But I bet you probably can't tell just by looking at a picture.
This is more common than you'd think. Often the leak is caused by scraping the plug so it turns just a bit in the counter-clockwise direction so it unscrews enough to start leaking. Back in my mini-truck wheeling days I actually witnessed a plug back all the way out and fall out on the trail.
There are two techniques to keep this from happening:
* Install a low-profile drain plug that has no flats, and uses a 10mm hex to remove/install, just like the plug that we often use as the fill plug replacement on the front diff. There's a trans plug from a Camry that was the standard replacement on mini-trucks.
* More drastic is to cut the bottom off the axle housing, removing the plug entirely, replace it with flat steel (we called it "shaving"). You can also gain about 1/2" of ground clearance doing this. Requires removing the axle housing from the truck, lots of work. I've done this job on several trucks many years ago. Then you have to use the bottom two diff studs to drain the oil out of the axle (replace the studs with bolts). Photos from my archives from 2003:
Cut axle:
Plate prepped for welding:
Welded:
Note that this axle also has a massive strong pipe cap welded on the back side to protect the ring gear from impact damage.
37s for another inch of clearance.
Then again, it's still very possible to touch down on bigger rocks. Mine fortunately didn't back off but it was packed with rock debris and bent metal. Spent some time with a chisel and grinder to get a socket back on it.
It’s also not uncommon to weld around the diameter to try to reinforce the area and create more of an angle around the drain hole.
bloc
SILVER Star
Negative. Very different wiring up to that part of the interior.
Thanks. I can't weld unless you count JBweld
Yeah this is probably what happened. Either that or just the general force of contact crushed the washer a tiny bit more. I tightened it yesterday and went for a short drive and no new drips so far, though I don't think the rear diff really got hot.
I ordered a replacement bolt and washer and will swap it and change the rear diff fluid next week if the temps are tolerable one day. It's been ~22k miles so not too far from the 30k interval I usually do the diffs anyway, and the rear is easy to do. If I can find a low profile bolt I might try to score one but it feels like more work than it's worth given in 115k miles ownership this is the first time I've tagged it. on a trail
bloc
SILVER Star
Low profile bolts also have the 10mm internal hex like our stock front diff drain plug. Less likely to get locked up and strip the head than that location but still taking the risk.
Would you say this rust is bad? 2017 LX
Really clean otherwise and just these spots I noticed.
Really clean otherwise and just these spots I noticed.
Rust in the AHC hardware is to be avoided if possible. First pic has me a little concerned, especially for a 2017. The rest in the seams and skidplate aren't so bad. History? Always a Colorado truck?
Agree. First pic is was my biggest concern. Pics are about it for rust. Lived out of Texas mostly based on service history. Think I’m going to pass.
Appreciate the assist.
Appreciate the assist.
PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
I'm sure I've over looked it, too close to the forest to see the trees as it were; TPMS question: I've got an old set of rims/tires in the garage with the old TPMS still there, if I toss them on the truck, will I trip the light? Is this something I can address without techstream? TIA
prharper
GOLD Star
I may need to get a weld around mine too. Used a pick to clear out all the grime around the bolt. Glad I upgraded the hex nut years ago.
Straight Screw Plug Sub-Assembly with Head
#90341-18035
