SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (10 Viewers)

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May warrant it's own thread but just noticed a strange noise at highway speeds on my LX. 2013 ~185k miles.

At highway speeds, when making slight steering wheel adjustments (not dead center/straight), there is a faint "whine" noise coming from what seems like the front left area of the steering wheel/column. It's hard to describe, almost sounds like a mix of a stereo buzz/whinning noise. There really isn't much vibration coming along with the noise and isn't causing the wheel to shake or anything like that. I honestly can't really tell if I can feel the noise/vibration or am just hearing it.

You can only hear it with the radio off/windows up. I honestly can't tell if it's coming from the steering wheel or somewhere in that area. Any ideas? Interior panels are rock solid so something is not loose. I believe it has to do when actually moving the steering wheel. Strange. No drivability issues.

Power steering pump low on fluid?
 
VGRS box maybe.
 
So my daughter hit a curb on our 2004 MB e320 4matic. Busted the radiator, condenser and lower front bumper. Im strongly considering doing a rally build with this thing: leaving off the plastic and wheel liners, doing a skid place, possibly bull bar, 1-2” lift,…. Am I crazy?

Anyone fabricated their own aluminum skid plates?

View attachment 3747304

Update? 😁

Early w211s are pretty much worthless at this point. So what's there to lose? Does it have airmatic?
 
Update? 😁

Early w211s are pretty much worthless at this point. So what's there to lose? Does it have airmatic?
No airmatic. We have it torn down (my (pictured) daughter did most of the work) and now the new radiator and condenser should be here any day. My wife is warming up to the idea of “rally version” she has some sentimental attachment since it was her car 21 years ago when we bought it new.

IMG_3169.jpeg
 
No airmatic. We have it torn down (my (pictured) daughter did most of the work) and now the new radiator and condenser should be here any day. My wife is warming up to the idea of “rally version” she has some sentimental attachment since it was her car 21 years ago when we bought it new.

View attachment 3755864
Nice.. side note, is that Ryobi light doing most of the lighting duties there?
 
Update? 😁

Early w211s are pretty much worthless at this point. So what's there to lose? Does it have airmatic?
Radiator and condenser is in and it is drives as it did prior, great!. No codes from the air controller/baffle removal. Here is what it currently looks like and a (bad) iPhone mock up of my possible vision: skid plate to protect the radiator/condenser and some round old school Hella lights. And I found a 1.5” lift kit…

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2018 TLC

Anyone know how to identify the power and ground wires for the overhead interior for lights? Ideally in the DS footwell area - assuming they route through there. I pulled the overhead console thinking I may be able to ID them there, but this is what I found. LED bulbs are soldered directly to the circuit board.

IMG_2488.jpeg
 
2018 TLC

Anyone know how to identify the power and ground wires for the overhead interior for lights? Ideally in the DS footwell area - assuming they route through there. I pulled the overhead console thinking I may be able to ID them there, but this is what I found. LED bulbs are soldered directly to the circuit board.

View attachment 3756251
You may have to start chasing with a multimeter if no one has a wiring diagram handy.
 
You may have to start chasing with a multimeter if no one has a wiring diagram handy.
Yeah... I started that then decided to come ask. Sorta tricky (at least for my brain to comprehend) because the buttons to turn the lights on/off have to be disconnected in order to probe the connector with the multimeter.
 
Radiator and condenser is in and it is drives as it did prior, great!. No codes from the air controller/baffle removal. Here is what it currently looks like and a (bad) iPhone mock up of my possible vision: skid plate to protect the radiator/condenser and some round old school Hella lights. And I found a 1.5” lift kit…

View attachment 3756241

View attachment 3756242

Subbed! Good call 21 years ago avoiding the airmatic, even though it could be converted now. These get a pretty bad wrap (not completely undeservedly), but the drivetrains (inc. the v8 in the e500) are actually pretty decent. Although, an SBC failure in the middle of a rally run could get a little scary.
 
Subbed! Good call 21 years ago avoiding the airmatic, even though it could be converted now. These get a pretty bad wrap (not completely undeservedly), but the drivetrains (inc. the v8 in the e500) are actually pretty decent. Although, an SBC failure in the middle of a rally run could get a little scary.
We have had it 21 years last month and 210k miles. It has been rock solid, only on its 3rd starter battery. It had the original starter, water pump, and alternator, all we just replaced with the radiator off. Only thing that has ever broken/failed was the SBC, which was replaced with a new version ~2 years ago under warranty (lifetime for original
Owner). Other then the SBC (and this crash) only thing we have done to it is PM.
 
Yeah... I started that then decided to come ask. Sorta tricky (at least for my brain to comprehend) because the buttons to turn the lights on/off have to be disconnected in order to probe the connector with the multimeter.
While thorough multi meter checking should work, I have messed up identifying a wrong ground on my father’s car back in the eighties installing a car radio and the wires behind the dash started smoking once you actually started the car. Ouch… Luckily my father had patience with me and we checked better and then never had a further issue with the wiring, but it made me humble working on car electrics.

My preference in this case would be to:
1) check the wiring diagrams for the connector and identify the ground and positive (I have a bunch of pdfs for the 200 series shared somewhere else on this forum which including wiring and connector diagrams)
2) do extensive multi meter checking of the identified ground and positive including cycling through all start button and light switch positions (this is key)
 
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While thorough multi meter checking should work, I have messed up identifying a wrong ground on my father’s car back in the eighties installing a car radio and the wires behind the dash started smoking once you actually started the car. Ouch… Luckily my father had patience with me and we checked better and then never had a further issue with the wiring, but it made me humble working on car electrics.

My preference in this case would be to:
1) check the wiring diagrams for the connector and identify the ground and positive (I have a bunch of pdfs for the 200 series shared somewhere else on this forum which including wiring and connector diagrams)
2) do extensive multi meter checking of the identified ground and positive including cycling through all start button and light switch positions (this is key)
Thanks. I'll track down and review the wiring diagrams you've posted.
 
These are the repair manuals floating around. I did not post them, but they are really helpful. Watch out for the various model year era’s and LX vs LC versions.
Thanks. I think I found them the other day. Just have had time to dig in yet. I’ll report back.
 
I have my AC set to auto, but the AC is not having that initial blast upon entry unlike my other cars. Is this normal?

Climate Concierge on and off doesn’t seem to make a difference. I can easily increase the fan speed manually and it’s cool so I don’t think there is an AC problem.
 
I have my AC set to auto, but the AC is not having that initial blast upon entry unlike my other cars. Is this normal?

Climate Concierge on and off doesn’t seem to make a difference. I can easily increase the fan speed manually and it’s cool so I don’t think there is an AC problem.
This typically means there's something wrong with the fresh/recirc damper above the cabin air filter. Have you replaced this filter recently?
 
I did change the cabin air filter few months ago and just confirmed the recirculation flap is functioning properly
 
Make sure the cabin filter is "clipped" all the way in. Mine wasn't after a service once and it messed up the system - took a while to get going as the recirc/door was not recognizing the filter/getting in the right position.
 

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