SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (3 Viewers)

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Is there a manual hatch release anywhere? 2013 lx.
My hatch won’t release when attempting to open. Tried the button on the hatch as well as both the button on the fob and dashboard. Both fob and dashboard just do the normal long beep and never opens. The hatch seems to be partially released and allows the door to open about 1/2”.
 
Thanks for that! I knew there was probably a thread about it somewhere but I wasn’t having luck with my search. After all that I just disconnected the neg battery terminal and it seems to be working again.
 
Thanks for that! I knew there was probably a thread about it somewhere but I wasn’t having luck with my search. After all that I just disconnected the neg battery terminal and it seems to be working again.
Yeah I haven’t messed with it much but did remember seeing a thread or two on the topic. I do use google for my searches, for the record.
 
Can I leave off the two clips on the LC200/LX's hitch cover or will vibrations cause the cover to back out and fly off?

The clips are a major PITA to remove and re-install, and I'd rather pull on/off the cover.

Has anyone gone without clips for an extended period?
 
Can I leave off the two clips on the LC200/LX's hitch cover or will vibrations cause the cover to back out and fly off?

The clips are a major PITA to remove and re-install, and I'd rather pull on/off the cover.

Has anyone gone without clips for an extended period?
Why are the clips so difficult? Should be a simple flat-head screwdriver away from pulling right out.
 
Why are the clips so difficult? Should be a simple flat-head screwdriver away from pulling right out.
In my experience, there can be an accumulation of small gravel or mud that gunks up the clip on the inside and less than perfect placement of the screwdriver by ten thumbs here ends up deforming the clip rather than smoothly pulling it out. Iterated multiple times, the clip becomes harder and harder to move.
 
In my experience, there can be an accumulation of small gravel or mud that gunks up the clip on the inside and less than perfect placement of the screwdriver by ten thumbs here ends up deforming the clip rather than smoothly pulling it out. Iterated multiple times, the clip becomes harder and harder to move.
When they get packed with dirt I’ve found working both sides of the clip at the same time really helps.

But then I guess it gets into PITA territory quickly…
 
In my experience, there can be an accumulation of small gravel or mud that gunks up the clip on the inside and less than perfect placement of the screwdriver by ten thumbs here ends up deforming the clip rather than smoothly pulling it out. Iterated multiple times, the clip becomes harder and harder to move.
Yeah I don't know... Got this used 10-yrs old. Was very difficult to remove and i noticed the prior owner had scratched around the plastic whole a fair bit. just tried reinserting them and would need a hammer to get it back in. I tried squeezing the clip long part but you really can't do that... maybe i just need to buy new clips??
 
Yeah I don't know... Got this used 10-yrs old. Was very difficult to remove and i noticed the prior owner had scratched around the plastic whole a fair bit. just tried reinserting them and would need a hammer to get it back in. I tried squeezing the clip long part but you really can't do that... maybe i just need to buy new clips??
New ones would definitely help.

The diagrams aren’t crystal clear on this but I think it’s 52161-16010

I’ve had my cover off since the second day I had my 200 though, so if these get clogged up more quickly than the same clips in other positions like the front fender well skirts I wouldn’t know. At the price of the clips though you could just throw a new one in every oil change or something and likely avoid the problem.
 
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Can I leave off the two clips on the LC200/LX's hitch cover or will vibrations cause the cover to back out and fly off?

The clips are a major PITA to remove and re-install, and I'd rather pull on/off the cover.

Has anyone gone without clips for an extended period?
I haven't had the clips on in the last four years. My cover still snaps in tight. If it ever seems to be a bit loose I will probably throw some new clips in there at that point.
 
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I broke the two white thing in circle, hoping to replace them with the black clip in square, what's the part number of the black clips?
They seem to be larger than the engine cover clip and longer than the rocker panel clip.

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I broke the two white thing in circle, hoping to replace them with the black clip in square, what's the part number of the black clips?
They seem to be larger than the engine cover clip and longer than the rocker panel clip.

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Should be a few posts in to this thread

 
Based on what BlueSea says I would assume you should limit to a 30A fuse per slot. If you need 40A, use 2 slots with 20A fuses and wire in parallel. (Or if you have a device you’re powering like a Goalzero or Ecoflow that can do 24V, wire the two in series and do that.

Practically you can probably use a 40A fuse if your actual draw is 30A or less and your wiring from the fuse block is thick enough to safely carry 40A. In that case you likely won’t pull more than 30A unless there’s a short in which case most any fuse should pop.
Thanks, Linux. Good thinking. I hadn’t thought of using two slots in series.
 
Thanks, Linux. Good thinking. I hadn’t thought of using two slots in series.
If you want 40A (or 60A) do them in parallel (splitting + and -) so the final load is divided between the two). If you do them in series (+ to -) you’ll get 30A at 24V, which is it what you’d want for many reasons (mainly if you’re only using one battery it’ll just short the fuse).

(I assume you probably meant parallel and just used the wrong word, but clarifying for posterity)
 
Was driving on the highway (about 60F) and turned on the Auto Air button which turned on the AC. I looked down and the coolant gauge was in the red. Immediately slowed down and the gauge quickly jumped down back to normal temps. Thoughts on what happened?
 
Was driving on the highway (about 60F) and turned on the Auto Air button which turned on the AC. I looked down and the coolant gauge was in the red. Immediately slowed down and the gauge quickly jumped down back to normal temps. Thoughts on what happened?
Have you checked your coolant reservoir? Radiator? Opened the hood?
 
Have you checked your coolant reservoir? Radiator? Opened the hood?
Yes, coolant reservoir was very low. Was able to fill up with some water. Things normalized and the needle hardly moved from the center. Got a jug of Toyota Pink from the dealership near my house. But when I was 5 min away, it started overheating again in traffic. Turned on the heater and it came back down. Reservoir looks fine, no visible leaks or anything. I know the cooling system was overhauled in the past few years. Temperature outside was 65F.

Should I replace the water with Toyota Pink? If so? It requires a full flush?
 
Any recommendation of good low range torque wrench? very disappointed with this ACDelco, might be a fake (no cert no manual and no battery)
 
Yes, coolant reservoir was very low. Was able to fill up with some water. Things normalized and the needle hardly moved from the center. Got a jug of Toyota Pink from the dealership near my house. But when I was 5 min away, it started overheating again in traffic. Turned on the heater and it came back down. Reservoir looks fine, no visible leaks or anything. I know the cooling system was overhauled in the past few years. Temperature outside was 65F.

Should I replace the water with Toyota Pink? If so? It requires a full flush?

Tap water or distilled?

Either way I’d suspect fan clutch or maybe belt/tensioner. I may be rushing to judgement here but this sounds like you might need someone with some experience to help you tackle this.

Any recommendation of good low range torque wrench? very disappointed with this ACDelco, might be a fake (no cert no manual and no battery)

What range? I personally avoid digital but have been really happy with my Neiko Pro torque wrenches. Of my five total torque wrenches three are made by them and zero issues, from accuracy to usability.

I will also say it’s pretty easy to check the calibration of yours with a known weight. Just set the wrench for the weight you have, set it up on a lug nut or bench vice, and hang that weight one foot from the center line of the head using wire or cord.
 
What range? I personally avoid digital but have been really happy with my Neiko Pro torque wrenches. Of my five total torque wrenches three are made by them and zero issues, from accuracy to usability.

I will also say it’s pretty easy to check the calibration of yours with a known weight. Just set the wrench for the weight you have, set it up on a lug nut or bench vice, and hang that weight one foot from the center line of the head using wire or cord.
around 5-50 ftlb? Not sure what are the common ranges. I have 20-100 mechanical ftlb one;
price wise, <$200, not shooting for professional grade (but I don't mind suggestions for my knowledge)
 

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