SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (2 Viewers)

[bloc]

Oil filter housing question here.

I am looking to replace the plastic housing for my next oil change. I see that I can use the Venza/metal housing LINK HERE. However, in the pic below, the area where you put the socket extension is seized/glued on and won't come off. So basically, what I've been doing the last 2 oil changes is just removing the whole filter housing iteself via the wrench and not using the drainer tool that comes with the filter. I just leave where the socket extension goes in place...

Does the housing I linked come with this? I've been told I have to move over some parts from the plastic piece to the metal one. Want to make sure I have everything I need before changing the oil. Thanks.

Also, if you recommend a better source for the part, let me know. Looking to keep it OEM, no need for the fancy aftermarket stuff.

View attachment 3571916

The extra little disk in your Amazon link is the part that is stuck on yours, so it does seem included. It’s part number 15643-31050 for the record.

The part you need to move over is the perforated tube that sits inside the filter itself, and I’d assume yours is still ok.

Those do appear to be Genuine Toyota parts, but if you absolutely want to avoid the risk of counterfeits you should spend the extra to order it from an official dealer parts site. It won’t be a whole lot more money, maybe $10. The disk will be separate though, so don’t forget that part.

 

[lx200inAR]

Oil filter housing question here.

I am looking to replace the plastic housing for my next oil change. I see that I can use the Venza/metal housing LINK HERE. However, in the pic below, the area where you put the socket extension is seized/glued on and won't come off. So basically, what I've been doing the last 2 oil changes is just removing the whole filter housing iteself via the wrench and not using the drainer tool that comes with the filter. I just leave where the socket extension goes in place...

Does the housing I linked come with this? I've been told I have to move over some parts from the plastic piece to the metal one. Want to make sure I have everything I need before changing the oil. Thanks.

Also, if you recommend a better source for the part, let me know. Looking to keep it OEM, no need for the fancy aftermarket stuff.

View attachment 3571916

I’d consider ordering the Venza part from a real parts vendor rather than some weird Amazon store. That plug does not come with the new housing cover, but it can be ordered separately. I also suspect that if you put the housing in a vice or something you will be able to get that plug out. It’s only a couple dollars though, so probably better to just order it.

 

[AZLX570]

Thanks guys - I will order from Toyota. I honestly was a bit lazy and was searching through old threads for the answer and is where I got the link + picture.

It seems like the parts I need to order are as follows:

15643-31050: Metal housing itself
15620-31060: Drain plug

The rest can be swapped over from the old plastic housing.

 

[Adam from PL]

I didn't find the answer on the forum, sorry...

Will 275/70 R18 tires fit a 200'2016 with regular suspension?

Standard is 285/60 R18.

 

[El Skywalker]

I didn't find the answer on the forum, sorry...

Will 275/70 R18 tires fit a 200'2016 with regular suspension?

Standard is 285/60 R18.

Yes.
You may have a little rubbing at full lock.

If you remove the front flaps you should be fine.

 

[bloc]

Thanks guys - I will order from Toyota. I honestly was a bit lazy and was searching through old threads for the answer and is where I got the link + picture.

It seems like the parts I need to order are as follows:

15643-31050: Metal housing itself
15620-31060: Drain plug

The rest can be swapped over from the old plastic housing.

You have the part numbers swapped, just FYI.

 

[gasman4u]

Thanks guys - I will order from Toyota. I honestly was a bit lazy and was searching through old threads for the answer and is where I got the link + picture.

It seems like the parts I need to order are as follows:

15643-31050: Metal housing itself
15620-31060: Drain plug

The rest can be swapped over from the old plastic housing.

if you have a strap pipe wrench, you could always put that around the plastic housing and then use counter torque for the small piece to come off. Especially if you've already ordered a new smaller piece and Venza metal housing. If it cracks, you've already got a spare.

 

[m12345y]

Thanks guys - I will order from Toyota. I honestly was a bit lazy and was searching through old threads for the answer and is where I got the link + picture.

It seems like the parts I need to order are as follows:

15643-31050: Metal housing itself
15620-31060: Drain plug

The rest can be swapped over from the old plastic housing.

quick questions:
1) is the drain plug the same as what's already there with the OE plastic filter housing (so I don't necessary have to buy an extra)?
2) and the filter housing drain plug is meant to be reused, only replace the O ring(s)?
3) how do you get out the plastic drain insert (see attached picture)? Do I have to remove the perforated tube from inside to get rid of the plastic insert?

 

[Bryanseye]

quick questions:
1) is the drain plug the same as what's already there with the OE plastic filter housing (so I don't necessary have to buy an extra)?
2) and the filter housing drain plug is meant to be reused, only replace the O ring(s)?
3) how do you get out the plastic drain insert (see attached picture)? Do I have to remove the perforated tube from inside to get rid of the plastic insert?

View attachment 3575040

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Pull harder (from the side)

 

[MNLC200Heritage]

If I was planning on installing the oem front suspension spacer on a stock LC200 HE with no 3rd row, which rear spacer would I need to maintain the factory rake (or as close to it as possible)?

 

[bloc]

quick questions:
1) is the drain plug the same as what's already there with the OE plastic filter housing (so I don't necessary have to buy an extra)?
2) and the filter housing drain plug is meant to be reused, only replace the O ring(s)?
3) how do you get out the plastic drain insert (see attached picture)? Do I have to remove the perforated tube from inside to get rid of the plastic insert?

View attachment 3575040

Put a screwdriver into the end and pry sideways, it'll pop out.

Also put the old o-ring from under the drain cap onto the groove in the plastic spout before installing it, and that'll help keep the oil draining out the middle and not the side.

 

[linuxgod]

If I was planning on installing the oem front suspension spacer on a stock LC200 HE with no 3rd row, which rear spacer would I need to maintain the factory rake (or as close to it as possible)?

Front spacers are 3/8” thick and provide 3/4” lift. So you’d need a bit more than 15mm in the rear.

 

[Julian73]

Just now realizing this is the rear cargo area not a door panel.

Airbag connectors are usually bright yellow..

Rear air temp sensor in the side panel? Though it’s not like Toyota to make the pigtails for them that long, when they could put that connector closer to the actual position of the sensor..

@Julian73 is it one wire or two?

Air temp sensor is on the panel and connection is at the rear end. First thoughts was a sensor for 3rd row seat belts if fitted, but as mentioned wrong color and style. Is this the region of the 3rd row seat latch? is that a mechanical or electric release system?

 

[MCtree]

If I want to pull 30 amps through this blue sea fuse block, should I put a 40A fuse into it?

Each of the 6 circuits is rated for only 30A.
But I fear that if I put a 30A fuse into it and then run 30A through it, it will blow the fuse instantly.
But it seems odd to put a higher amp rated fuse into a circuit that’s only good to 30A.

 

[linuxgod]

If I want to pull 30 amps through this blue sea fuse block, should I put a 40A fuse into it?
View attachment 3576183

Each of the 6 circuits is rated for only 30A.
But I fear that if I put a 30A fuse into it and then run 30A through it, it will blow the fuse instantly.
But it seems odd to put a higher amp rated fuse into a circuit that’s only good to 30A.

Check the BlueSea docs. I have a similar one and it’s rated for I think 75A total, 30A per circuit.

 

[MCtree]

Check the BlueSea docs. I have a similar one and it’s rated for I think 75A total, 30A per circuit.

I’ve been reading and re-reading the docs
And can’t find a good answer.

The docs say:
The entire block is rated to 125A total but only 30A per circuit.

But my question is:
If I want to run 30A through one of those circuits, do I put a 30A or a 40A fuse in the circuit?
I fear a 30A fuse will blow when I try to run 30A through it.
But again, it seems odd to put a 40A fuse in there.

 

[Dwight S]

quick questions:
1) is the drain plug the same as what's already there with the OE plastic filter housing (so I don't necessary have to buy an extra)?
2) and the filter housing drain plug is meant to be reused, only replace the O ring(s)?
3) how do you get out the plastic drain insert (see attached picture)? Do I have to remove the perforated tube from inside to get rid of the plastic insert?

View attachment 3575040

Think about this for the future. No mess drains.

POWERWORKS Oil Filter Drain Tool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088LX23ZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[bloc]

Think about this for the future. No mess drains.

POWERWORKS Oil Filter Drain Tool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088LX23ZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got one and was disappointed, compared to the included tool it’s very slow and more stuff to clean up.

 

[Zill]

I got one and was disappointed, compared to the included tool it’s very slow and more stuff to clean up.

You guys actually use that little plastic tool drain on the oil filter? I figure, the oil is going to get all over the outside of the filter housing anyway. As such, I don’t even bother messing around with draining it first. I just undo the filter housing until it becomes able to be loosened by your fingers, take off the filter wrench, and then let it drain by unscrewing the filter housing the rest by hand (while getting a little oil on my hands that have gloves on). A pair of latex gloves is pretty cheap to put on a new pair after the oil filter part has been handled.

 

[lx200inAR]

I’ve been reading and re-reading the docs
And can’t find a good answer.

The docs say:
The entire block is rated to 125A total but only 30A per circuit.

But my question is:
If I want to run 30A through one of those circuits, do I put a 30A or a 40A fuse in the circuit?
I fear a 30A fuse will blow when I try to run 30A through it.
But again, it seems odd to put a 40A fuse in there.

The load is pretty much irrelevant in this equation. The fuse is not there to regulate the load to your device, it is there to protect the wiring that is in place. In this case, we are talking about the wiring between the fuse block and the load. If that wiring is capable of 40amp, then running a 40amp fuse is fine. If the wiring is only good for 30amps, then you should use a 30amp fuse. The fuse is only there to keep you from starting a fire by turning your wire into a combustible filament. There should also be a fuse at your battery for the wiring feeding the fuse block. This wiring and fuse needs to be able to accommodate the 125amps the fuse block is capable of, if you plan to use that much of a draw. In any case, the fuse should match the wiring.

Edit: I should probably caveat this with, while I suspect that the connection in the fuse block between the lug from the main battery to the fuse holder is probably capable of more than 30amps, if Blue Sea has rated it at 30amps, that's probably as high a fuse as you should put in there. Answer still stands, that your fuse to the capability of the wiring.