SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (2 Viewers)

[lx200inAR]

Think about this for the future. No mess drains.

POWERWORKS Oil Filter Drain Tool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088LX23ZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got one and was disappointed, compared to the included tool it’s very slow and more stuff to clean up.

I use one of these and like it. I can't disagree that's it's another dirty tool you have to maintain, rather than just trashing the plastic plug. But I like that I can put the hose strait into the hole in my oil catch pan. My catch pan has 2 holes. i put the tube from this in one, and the tube from my Fumoto valve in the other and let them go for a while. The filter housing is always done before the oil pan is. The only mess that ends up in my pan is from the oil filter and the little bit I still have to pour out of the filter housing.

And I definitely prefer this to letting all the oil spill out of the side of the filter housing when unscrewing it.

 

[linuxgod]

I’ve been reading and re-reading the docs
And can’t find a good answer.

The docs say:
The entire block is rated to 125A total but only 30A per circuit.

But my question is:
If I want to run 30A through one of those circuits, do I put a 30A or a 40A fuse in the circuit?
I fear a 30A fuse will blow when I try to run 30A through it.
But again, it seems odd to put a 40A fuse in there.

Based on what BlueSea says I would assume you should limit to a 30A fuse per slot. If you need 40A, use 2 slots with 20A fuses and wire in parallel. (Or if you have a device you’re powering like a Goalzero or Ecoflow that can do 24V, wire the two in series and do that.

Practically you can probably use a 40A fuse if your actual draw is 30A or less and your wiring from the fuse block is thick enough to safely carry 40A. In that case you likely won’t pull more than 30A unless there’s a short in which case most any fuse should pop.

 

[gasman4u]

I use one of these and like it. I can't disagree that's it's another dirty tool you have to maintain, rather than just trashing the plastic plug. But I like that I can put the hose strait into the hole in my oil catch pan. My catch pan has 2 holes. i put the tube from this in one, and the tube from my Fumoto valve in the other and let them go for a while. The filter housing is always done before the oil pan is. The only mess that ends up in my pan is from the oil filter and the little bit I still have to pour out of the filter housing.

And I definitely prefer this to letting all the oil spill out of the side of the filter housing when unscrewing it.

@Dwight S I've got a similar one by...MotivX or something similar. Same screw-on deal. As @bloc pointed out it is slow. But also keeps me from "moisturizing" my garage floor with oil. I have found if I let the tubing drain for long enough, I just put it back in the box and there's not a mess to worry about cleaning.

 

[bloc]

You guys actually use that little plastic tool drain on the oil filter? I figure, the oil is going to get all over the outside of the filter housing anyway. As such, I don’t even bother messing around with draining it first. I just undo the filter housing until it becomes able to be loosened by your fingers, take off the filter wrench, and then let it drain by unscrewing the filter housing the rest by hand (while getting a little oil on my hands that have gloves on). A pair of latex gloves is pretty cheap to put on a new pair after the oil filter part has been handled.

I definitely use the tool, every oil change. If you put the oring on correctly there is usually no spillage, and the only thing oily is the screwdriver I use to remove it. Draining the housing then letting it sit for a bit to let the remaining stuff in there to drain to the bottom really reduces how much comes down the threads when the cover is removed. And yes I still do all of this with nitrile gloves.

I use one of these and like it. I can't disagree that's it's another dirty tool you have to maintain, rather than just trashing the plastic plug. But I like that I can put the hose strait into the hole in my oil catch pan. My catch pan has 2 holes. i put the tube from this in one, and the tube from my Fumoto valve in the other and let them go for a while. The filter housing is always done before the oil pan is. The only mess that ends up in my pan is from the oil filter and the little bit I still have to pour out of the filter housing.

You’re describing why I won’t use the combination catch-pan/storage tanks. I use an open pan with a raised lip and spout then transfer to 5-gal buckets which are easier to transport without spillage and don’t have proprietary plugs that crack and let oil leak all over the shop floor.

 

[Dwight S]

I have a plastic Harbor Freight ammo box that I keep all my oil change tools in, for all three of our vehicles. At the end of change, I wrap the end of the tube in a paper towel and stick it in the box. It isn’t too dirty. I tried those plastic snap in tubes and I always had more oil on me and the floor than in the pan. The Mobil 1 filter kit had the best drain tube, it screwed on but easily cross threaded.

 

[lx200inAR]

I definitely use the tool, every oil change. If you put the oring on correctly there is usually no spillage, and the only thing oily is the screwdriver I use to remove it. Draining the housing then letting it sit for a bit to let the remaining stuff in there to drain to the bottom really reduces how much comes down the threads when the cover is removed. And yes I still do all of this with nitrile gloves.



You’re describing why I won’t use the combination catch-pan/storage tanks. I use an open pan with a raised lip and spout then transfer to 5-gal buckets which are easier to transport without spillage and don’t have proprietary plugs that crack and let oil leak all over the shop floor.

Hmm...I always go straight from my pan back into the 5quart jugs when i'm changing oil and use that to transport back to the recycle. I store my pan dry generally, unless I just happen to not have room in a 5 quart jug. My pan is easily 10-15 yrs old and everything is still intact, so seems like we have a similar process, with different tools.

 

[bloc]

Hmm...I always go straight from my pan back into the 5quart jugs when i'm changing oil and use that to transport back to the recycle. I store my pan dry generally, unless I just happen to not have room in a 5 quart jug. My pan is easily 10-15 yrs old and everything is still intact, so seems like we have a similar process, with different tools.

I used the jugs until I got annoyed using funnels to get everything stored. In comparison the bucket is so easy to just pull off the lid and dump two changes worth back into.. then get that to the parts store whenever is convenient.

One perhaps odd detail about me, I try to avoid using funnels when possible because even those are just more stuff to clean up. I have used disposable paper funnels before too.. still a waste.

But yeah, similar processes with different preferences for tools. All part of the same game.. doing better than the “pros” at maintaining our cars.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Does anyone know if the lower front bumper skin from a 2013 would fit on a 2011? The fogs are different for sure, but not sure if other than that if the 2013 would easily attach to my 2011.

 

[bloc]

Hmm...I always go straight from my pan back into the 5quart jugs when i'm changing oil and use that to transport back to the recycle. I store my pan dry generally, unless I just happen to not have room in a 5 quart jug. My pan is easily 10-15 yrs old and everything is still intact, so seems like we have a similar process, with different tools.

Also, not storing your oil in that pan is likely why the plastic is still in good shape, so good job on that.

In the three decades I’ve been working on cars I had a handful of those things fail and each was a giant PITA to clean up, as well as the whole pan being useless because I couldn’t exactly order those plugs as spares.

*off my soapbox now

 

[lx200inAR]

Also, not storing your oil in that pan is likely why the plastic is still in good shape, so good job on that.

In the three decades I’ve been working on cars I had a handful of those things fail and each was a giant PITA to clean up, as well as the whole pan being useless because I couldn’t exactly order those plugs as spares.

*off my soapbox now

No worries. I was thinking about your comments about needing funnels, thinking I don’t ever use one (except for the one that screws to the oil inlet). I had to google some pictures of oil pans and I guess I got lucky. Mine has a spout that is a few inches long that makes it easy to Pour into things, so I never use a funnel except for the topside. I use that mostly because if the truck is up on ramps getting a 5 qt jug over the motor at shoulder height isn’t super easy. I. Priced a lot of the pans don’t have a spout like mine.

And as far as storing dry, yeah, I don’t have any facts, but in my head oil will always pass through plastic at some point, so I try to never store oil in plastic if I can help it.

 

[foolforthecity]

Any ideas for removing rust from OEM front plate receivers? Has anyone successfully removed the screw receivers?

 

[wiseinvestor]

Does anyone know what the mounting metal t-slot type plate type thing that is on the backs of awnings called? Where to purchase?
Thanks

 

[bloc]

Any ideas for removing rust from OEM front plate receivers? Has anyone successfully removed the screw receivers?

View attachment 3579631

Order 2x 90179-06127
Once you get them it'll be obvious how the old ones come out, or I guess you could look up pictures online.

New ones will rust too, btw.

Note that the proper thread for the new screws is M6x1.0


Also if you put your year/model in your signature it'll help us track more specific parts down quicker.

 

[linuxgod]

Does anyone know what the mounting metal t-slot type plate type thing that is on the backs of awnings called? Where to purchase?
Thanks
View attachment 3579648

View attachment 3579649

I don’t know what they use but are the t nuts?

https://a.co/d/9z9lrLa

 

[foolforthecity]

Order 2x 90179-06127
Once you get them it'll be obvious how the old ones come out, or I guess you could look up pictures online.

New ones will rust too, btw.

Note that the proper thread for the new screws is M6x1.0


Also if you put your year/model in your signature it'll help us track more specific parts down quicker.

Thanks your post gave me confidence to remove them. I had convinced myself they were permanently integrated into the bumper. I may clean them up and rattle can them black or just run without. So relieved to get the rusty ones off!

 

[wiseinvestor]

I don’t know what they use but are the t nuts?

https://a.co/d/9z9lrLa

I'm looking for the type of aluminum extrusion that that they attach to the back of awning. The t-nuts are what goes in the channel on the aluminum extrusion I think.

 

[foolforthecity]

I'm looking for the type of aluminum extrusion that that they attach to the back of awning. The t-nuts are what goes in the channel on the aluminum extrusion I think.

I would ask etrailer. They may be able to sell you one specific to your awning depending on the brand.

 

[m12345y]

Qq, what’s the recommended year/mileage for ahc globe replacement and ahc fluid change respectively?

I have ‘18 LX at 80k miles, plan to just do fluid change; saw a few had trouble getting old globe off made me hesitant on globe replacement. The truck rides perfectly albeit hesitant to go HI sometimes

 

[bloc]

Qq, what’s the recommended year/mileage for ahc globe replacement and ahc fluid change respectively?

I have ‘18 LX at 80k miles, plan to just do fluid change; saw a few had trouble getting old globe off made me hesitant on globe replacement. The truck rides perfectly albeit hesitant to go HI sometimes

have a sharp 3/8" drill bit and drill, 2-3# hammer, and a tapered flat punch on hand, and you'll definitely get all of them out.

 

[Wafflroo]

Is there a manual hatch release anywhere? 2013 lx.
My hatch won’t release when attempting to open. Tried the button on the hatch as well as both the button on the fob and dashboard. Both fob and dashboard just do the normal long beep and never opens. The hatch seems to be partially released and allows the door to open about 1/2”.