SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (30 Viewers)

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What ARB product are they used on?
Land Rover defender winch bumpers, I think. Probably why it seems to only be available in the UK.

Ultimately I just need a high strength (grade 10.9, 11, or 12.9) M14 fine thread (1.5) bolt that’s longer than the stock part, though if it’s too long it will hit the LCA arm and won’t fully tighten. 100mm is a bit short and doesn’t engage all the threads in the captive LCA nut. 120mm is a tad too long. I might be able to use a non-flange bolt with a good washer as those are available but I think flange bolts have a higher max torque and since these go to 100ft lbs and since I’m converting to a single shear I want all the strength I can muster.

Fwiw I used diff bolts previously and just cut off about 1/2”. I kind of chewed up the threads on one when I reinstalled it after replacing my end links. Was hoping to source a quality bolt that wouldn’t require me to re-cut and chase the threads, but if I can’t source one easily I’ll likely just do that again.

Someone should find and source these 2 bolts along with a KDSS relo block which pushes the bar 1.5” forward instead of the standard 1” and sell that as a kit…
 
Rats chewed the wires on my fuel tank pressure sensor (mounted above the gas tank). The gauge of the wires Toyota provides on their Terminal Repair kit (82998-12440) is much thicker than the original wires. Will this make any significant difference with the readings from the fuel tank pressure sensor? I know I could buy the proper wire and crimp them onto the original connectors, but I already have the repair kit.

Full disclosure. This question is for my 100 series, but they don't have a SQOD. Plus the question probably applies to all vehicles.


IMG_1200.jpeg
 
Will this make any significant difference with the readings from the fuel tank pressure sensor? I know I could buy the proper wire and crimp them onto the original connectors, but I already have the repair kit.

Assuming toyota set the circuit up correctly in the first place without too thin of a wire leading to excess resistance, it won't make any difference at all.
 
If the battery dies, will the powered rear upper hatch still unlock? I’ll gladly open it manually, but don’t want to put an extra hole in my truck to get into the back without power. TIA.
 
This is not so much a stupid question but a stupid (and surprising) observation that I made today. I dropped my spare and left it home as I took my truck in to get undercoated today. I got the tire pressure warning (!) on the way to the shop so then I scrolled through to check the TP and I wasn't getting readings for any of the tires. So apparently this must mean you need to have all 5 sensors connected in order to get a reading? This seems like a real design flaw to me! This is a 2021 model.
 
This is not so much a stupid question but a stupid (and surprising) observation that I made today. I dropped my spare and left it home as I took my truck in to get undercoated today. I got the tire pressure warning (!) on the way to the shop so then I scrolled through to check the TP and I wasn't getting readings for any of the tires. So apparently this must mean you need to have all 5 sensors connected in order to get a reading? This seems like a real design flaw to me! This is a 2021 model.
This is fairly on brand for Toyota. They generally like to make any failure mode of any system worse than the actual failure so that the user fixes it sooner rather than later.
 
This is not so much a stupid question but a stupid (and surprising) observation that I made today. I dropped my spare and left it home as I took my truck in to get undercoated today. I got the tire pressure warning (!) on the way to the shop so then I scrolled through to check the TP and I wasn't getting readings for any of the tires. So apparently this must mean you need to have all 5 sensors connected in order to get a reading? This seems like a real design flaw to me! This is a 2021 model.
I also think this is stoopid. I've been driving with one dead sensor for the past few months and the light is on. The info screen only says CHECK TPMS SYSTEM when I scroll to that screen, so I can't even check the other 4 tires. Dumb.
 
This is not so much a stupid question but a stupid (and surprising) observation that I made today. I dropped my spare and left it home as I took my truck in to get undercoated today. I got the tire pressure warning (!) on the way to the shop so then I scrolled through to check the TP and I wasn't getting readings for any of the tires. So apparently this must mean you need to have all 5 sensors connected in order to get a reading? This seems like a real design flaw to me! This is a 2021 model.

FWIW - I did the same thing a month back - dropped the spare tire to get the truck undercoated - did not got any warning lights.
 
This is not so much a stupid question but a stupid (and surprising) observation that I made today. I dropped my spare and left it home as I took my truck in to get undercoated today. I got the tire pressure warning (!) on the way to the shop so then I scrolled through to check the TP and I wasn't getting readings for any of the tires. So apparently this must mean you need to have all 5 sensors connected in order to get a reading? This seems like a real design flaw to me! This is a 2021 model.
I’ve had this experience too. Also 2021
 
If the battery dies, will the powered rear upper hatch still unlock? I’ll gladly open it manually, but don’t want to put an extra hole in my truck to get into the back without power. TIA.

If the battery dies then you need to open the rear cargo hatch manually. If you look on the inside of the hatch there is an inspection plate which you can pop open and then manually open the cargo hatch.
 
If the battery dies then you need to open the rear cargo hatch manually. If you look on the inside of the hatch there is an inspection plate which you can pop open and then manually open the cargo hatch.
Gotcha. I saw that from an earlier post about interior access. I’m asking for exterior access.
 
FWIW - I did the same thing a month back - dropped the spare tire to get the truck undercoated - did not got any warning lights.
It takes 20 min or so to log the permanent failure. Which will then stay on unitl the ignition is cycled.
 
Gotcha. I saw that from an earlier post about interior access. I’m asking for exterior access.

You would be best and easiest to get in through a door and the use the inside inspection plate.
Can you get in from the outside?, sure smash the window or use a cutting blade or Dremel.
 
You would be best and easiest to get in through a door and the use the inside inspection plate.
Can you get in from the outside?, sure smash the window or use a cutting blade or Dremel.
Right. This would involve the extra holes I don't want to create.
 
Does this sound right to you? My AHC pump gets pretty loud going into high, but only when connecting my trailer with a 750lb tongue weight and a loaded truck. Otherwise the vehicle drives fine, AHC goes up and down and doesn't normally make this noise. The AHC fluid has been flushed every few years and the reservoir is full. The tapping/creaking sound is from the trailer, not the pump.

2010 LX570

 
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What is the meaning of AHC?


Alternating hemiplegia of childhood (AHC) is a neurological disorder that requires lifelong care. Because it is rare, with symptoms that mimic other conditions, an accurate diagnosis is essential.
 
What gaskets, crush washers, etc are needed for a 2016+ transmission drain and fill? TIA.
 
Anyone know if the bushing that goes through the rear sway bar on the passengers side is easily removed, or does it need to be pressed? The edges of mine are in bad shape and the part was $5, but I hate to get the sway bar disconnected and then find out I can’t get this out easily and a new one installed.

It’s part #2 in the diagram which fits into the bottom of part #5. The part itself looks like this:
IMG_4252.jpeg


IMG_4251.png
 
What gaskets, crush washers, etc are needed for a 2016+ transmission drain and fill? TIA.
If you are just doing a drain and fill using the drain plug and fill plugs, you need 90301-15004 washer for the fill and 35178-60010 washer for the drain.
 
Anyone know if the bushing that goes through the rear sway bar on the passengers side is easily removed, or does it need to be pressed? The edges of mine are in bad shape and the part was $5, but I hate to get the sway bar disconnected and then find out I can’t get this out easily and a new one installed.

It’s part #2 in the diagram which fits into the bottom of part #5. The part itself looks like this:
View attachment 3469840

View attachment 3469837
Should just pop in (and the old one out) by hand. Might require some effort, but certainly not a press.
 

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