SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (7 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

MCtree said:
Thanks for the info.
And this question just became more than just theoretical for me.

I was charging lipo battery via two wires connected to my Aux battery and noticed smoke coming out of the fuse between my starter battery and the Aux battery.

And the wire running off of the main to the Aux, as seen in the photo, was very hot.

It’s a 250A fuse and I was only charging at 500W. (45A or so)
I can no longer get the cover off of the blue-sea cover to the fuse to check if it’s blown, but I presume not since the BCDC 1250 is still operating in mode A.

Anybody have thoughts on what is going on?
(I’m camping in Utah so would appreciate any input)

View attachment 3457900
Click to expand...
User manual for the BCDC1250 calls for 60A fuses in the starting and auxiliary battery sides of the unit. You’ll have a desperate time blowing a 250A fuse off a 55A peak draw.

The user manual also calls for 6AW wires for lengths under 16ft, and 4AWG from 16-30ft. If you don’t have thick enough wires, it will generate a lot of heat.

What stands out the most in your description is charging mode. If I understood you correctly, your BCDC is charging a LiPo in Mode A? If true, you have a problem. It should be charging in Li mode. Did you shunt the orange and green wires on the BCDC unit?
 
Stupid question: I had my valve cover gasket replaced as they were leaking. Now few hundred miles later, after each drive, there is a burnt oil smell. Oil level is perfect. No drops on the ground.

Pulled into work, left motor running, popped the hood, and I see slight smoke from passenger side firewall area. I look down where the header/exhaust shields are, no drops, but that is where smell is coming from.

Thoughts?
 
ryanCA said:
Stupid question: I had my valve cover gasket replaced as they were leaking. Now few hundred miles later, after each drive, there is a burnt oil smell. Oil level is perfect. No drops on the ground.

Pulled into work, left motor running, popped the hood, and I see slight smoke from passenger side firewall area. I look down where the header/exhaust shields are, no drops, but that is where smell is coming from.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Somehow there is still residual oil on the exhaust or you still have an oil leak. Residual oil should burn off within a short period of time, so not likely the issue.

A similar thing would happen to an MB that I had, engine plugs with o-ring would get old and weap a very small amount of oil that would drip on the exhaust and smoke and smell like burning oil. Replaced with new o-ring plugs, problem solved. This was at the back of the engine and no visible oil could be seen during inspection.

Not saying the LC engine has the same plugs, but more of an anecdote that you may not see a large amount of oil and still have burning smell.
 
MCtree said:
Thanks for the info.
And this question just became more than just theoretical for me.

I was charging lipo battery via two wires connected to my Aux battery and noticed smoke coming out of the fuse between my starter battery and the Aux battery.

And the wire running off of the main to the Aux, as seen in the photo, was very hot.

It’s a 250A fuse and I was only charging at 500W. (45A or so)
I can no longer get the cover off of the blue-sea cover to the fuse to check if it’s blown, but I presume not since the BCDC 1250 is still operating in mode A.

Anybody have thoughts on what is going on?
(I’m camping in Utah so would appreciate any input)

View attachment 3457900
Click to expand...
I would recommend you remove the fuse / battery connection until you can get it figured out.

The fuse should be sized based on wire size. Wire size should selected based on load and length of wire.
 
UPR LC said:
I would recommend you remove the fuse / battery connection until you can get it figured out.

The fuse should be sized based on wire size. Wire size should selected based on load and length of wire.
Click to expand...
+1 to this comment. And this Blue Sea reference for wire/fuse selection is great. I consult anytime I'm adding items.


If the above link doesn't work then get it from here: Reference - Blue Sea Systems - https://www.bluesea.com/support/reference
 
UPR LC said:
Somehow there is still residual oil on the exhaust or you still have an oil leak. Residual oil should burn off within a short period of time, so not likely the issue.

A similar thing would happen to an MB that I had, engine plugs with o-ring would get old and weap a very small amount of oil that would drip on the exhaust and smoke and smell like burning oil. Replaced with new o-ring plugs, problem solved. This was at the back of the engine and no visible oil could be seen during inspection.

Not saying the LC engine has the same plugs, but more of an anecdote that you may not see a large amount of oil and still have burning smell.
Click to expand...
THIS is why you guys are smart and I am stupid.

Followed your directions. Took a little stick on a mirror (not sure name of the tool). It looks like heatshield had some old oil on it. No leaks anywhere, and nothing on the ground.

Cleaned it up. Going to go drive it.

Its all residual.

I appreciate your help VERY much.
 
ryanCA said:
THIS is why you guys are smart and I am stupid.

Followed your directions. Took a little stick on a mirror (not sure name of the tool). It looks like heatshield had some old oil on it. No leaks anywhere, and nothing on the ground.

Cleaned it up. Going to go drive it.

Its all residual.

I appreciate your help VERY much.
Click to expand...

You should really really look closely and make sure it's not a cam tower leak. I had both covers replaced chasing this and it ended up being cam towers.
 
ryanCA said:
I will keep an eye on it. Cam tower leaks were addressed about 35K ago. (per the previous owners' Toyota dealer paperwork)
Click to expand...

Oh phew. I gotta deal with mine and am dreading it. No noticeable oil consumption but the smell is driving me nuts
 
empty80 said:
User manual for the BCDC1250 calls for 60A fuses in the starting and auxiliary battery sides of the unit. You’ll have a desperate time blowing a 250A fuse off a 55A peak draw.

The user manual also calls for 6AW wires for lengths under 16ft, and 4AWG from 16-30ft. If you don’t have thick enough wires, it will generate a lot of heat.

What stands out the most in your description is charging mode. If I understood you correctly, your BCDC is charging a LiPo in Mode A? If true, you have a problem. It should be charging in Li mode. Did you shunt the orange and green wires on the BCDC unit?
Click to expand...
Thanks all for all the input.
I do believe that the wire running to the BCDC is 4AWG - or so the shop who installed it told me.

I guess I was running too much power through it. I had an inverter attached to my Aux battery and it was pulling 500watts.
So 45amps or so.
I wonder if somehow the BCDC 1250D was also pulling 50amps. I didn’t think the BCDC would have a reason to pull that much if the only thing the Aux was powering was a dometic fridge (40watts).
But maybe it was.

But now I really wonder why there is a 250A fuse there. It makes no sense. And I realize why it never popped. Like a gift that keeps on giving by the shop that installed it in Houston.
 
tbisaacs said:
Oh phew. I gotta deal with mine and am dreading it. No noticeable oil consumption but the smell is driving me nuts
Click to expand...
Did a 50 mile test drive, no smell (fingers crossed). Will see how it does rest of the week, as I have hundred mile offroad trip. Good luck on yours.
 
ryanCA said:
Did a 50 mile test drive, no smell (fingers crossed). Will see how it does rest of the week, as I have hundred mile offroad trip. Good luck on yours.
Click to expand...
If it was on the heat shield and not the exhaust directly I can see a scenario where it was burning off slowly due to the much lower surface temps. So I wouldn't be surprised if you got it.
 
teejnut said:
+1 to this comment. And this Blue Sea reference for wire/fuse selection is great. I consult anytime I'm adding items.


If the above link doesn't work then get it from here: Reference - Blue Sea Systems - https://www.bluesea.com/support/reference
Click to expand...
I use the same charts, super helpful.

I always mention it, but when determining length of wire for a DC circuit, it is the total length that includes both positive and negative (ground) wire for the circuit. So if you don't have a ground close to your powered device, it can effect wire size needed sometimes due to the longer run.
 
MCtree said:
Thanks all for all the input.
I do believe that the wire running to the BCDC is 4AWG - or so the shop who installed it told me.

I guess I was running too much power through it. I had an inverter attached to my Aux battery and it was pulling 500watts.
So 45amps or so.
I wonder if somehow the BCDC 1250D was also pulling 50amps. I didn’t think the BCDC would have a reason to pull that much if the only thing the Aux was powering was a dometic fridge (40watts).
But maybe it was.

But now I really wonder why there is a 250A fuse there. It makes no sense. And I realize why it never popped. Like a gift that keeps on giving by the shop that installed it in Houston.
Click to expand...

It is hard to tell from a picture but that does not look like 4 gauge wire to me, using the battery as scale reference.

The short segment of wire from the battery post to the fuse does not look discolored. You may want to check the other wire connection to make sure it is tight, if there is a loose connection or corrosion, it can overheat at the connection location. Just something to check while you are looking at it. The connection could be loose in the fuse block (bolted lug) or the wire could be loose within the crimped lug/terminal end.
 
UPR LC said:
It is hard to tell from a picture but that does not look like 4 gauge wire to me, using the battery as scale reference.

The short segment of wire from the battery post to the fuse does not look discolored. You may want to check the other wire connection to make sure it is tight, if there is a loose connection or corrosion, it can overheat at the connection location. Just something to check while you are looking at it. The connection could be loose in the fuse block (bolted lug) or the wire could be loose within the crimped lug/terminal end.
Click to expand...
Agreed. It seems smaller than a 4 gauge to me… but I’m no expert.
But what’s interesting is that that wire is spliced in to the harness coming out of the BCDC1250D - and that harness’ wires are much smaller than the wires in the pictures.

And you make a good point about that maybe that splice is at issue and causing this problem at the end seen.

Just to add, in reading the REDARC instructions, that fuse should be 60A. Not the 150A fuse Duggy’s, the shop in Houston, put in.
I need to find a shop to pull it all out and redo it.
 
Last edited:
I did all baseline fluids this weekend. Car runs like top

suddenly huge oil leak by passenger front wheel

thoughts?

IMG_1297.jpeg


IMG_1296.jpeg


IMG_1295.jpeg
 
ryanCA said:
Its so close to the passenger front tire - cant figure out where its coming from

will have to check in the AM then

very surprised about this kind of leak - something has to be loose
Click to expand...
It’s the right color and location to be a leaking engine oil drain plug or maybe a leaking filter housing. Maybe an accidentally doubled o-ring on the housing or doubled washer on the drain plug?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

tominboise
What is the service life of the upper and lower rad hoses?
Replies
5
Views
762
bloc
bloc
PDoyle
Lexus only fathers day deals
Replies
0
Views
485
PDoyle
PDoyle
R
Happy Father’s Day! Diesel 200 series edition
Replies
14
Views
1K
rhd0002
R
2
Sensor Lift Question
Replies
2
Views
204
tbisaacs
tbisaacs

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 8 (members: 0, guests: 8)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom