SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (5 Viewers)

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My SQOD is at what point do you just accept and live with a small air leak?

Compressor will charge for a brief half second every 6 min or so, ARB manual recommends 15 min. I’ve narrowed it down to the ARB Linx modules connected to the locker manifold or the pressure switch. I’ve filled my airbags and have not been able to measure a noticeable air loss over several days.

To get to the theorized offending leaks I’ll have to remove the entire thing which is just something I’m loathed to do and not convinced the juice is worth the squeeze when I can just turn the thing off and back on when needed.

I feel confident that this is one of those “new install snug up after a while“ type of things.

I’ve been all over with soapy water and this blue leak finder stuff and still could be mistake about my suspicions.

I’ll add the leak was every 1.5 minutes until I replaced the airbag fittings at the manifold so another part of my lack of desire is I’ve fixed the easier of the two potential leaks.

Editing to add that adding a front locker to justify removing the compressor to add the new module and address this dumb leak is an option that’s on the table but a year or so down the road.
 
View attachment 3276780

My SQOD is at what point do you just accept and live with a small air leak?

Compressor will charge for a brief half second every 6 min or so, ARB manual recommends 15 min. I’ve narrowed it down to the ARB Linx modules connected to the locker manifold or the pressure switch. I’ve filled my airbags and have not been able to measure a noticeable air loss over several days.

To get to the theorized offending leaks I’ll have to remove the entire thing which is just something I’m loathed to do and not convinced the juice is worth the squeeze when I can just turn the thing off and back on when needed.

I feel confident that this is one of those “new install snug up after a while“ type of things.

I’ve been all over with soapy water and this blue leak finder stuff and still could be mistake about my suspicions.

I’ll add the leak was every 1.5 minutes until I replaced the airbag fittings at the manifold so another part of my lack of desire is I’ve fixed the easier of the two potential leaks.

Editing to add that adding a front locker to justify removing the compressor to add the new module and address this dumb leak is an option that’s on the table but a year or so down the road.
I can't stand the sound of the compressor kicking on and recharging constantly, so I'd just find the leak and fix it.
 
Actually, that's the beauty of AHC in that doesn't care about load added or taken away (to a point). It will always re-normalize to the height targets set by the sensors.

If you took the spare out when the car is parked, yes it sit higher. The next time it's started, it will re-normalize.

The stock setup does have some rake built in. It's likely just a visual figment of taking the spare out as that makes the rear end look higher without the spare hanging down.

Alternatively, you can dial in a tad of lift up front (recommend .5-.75") and it'll always be level. Regardless of what weight you add at the rear.
I’m thinking about doing this up front to make everything a tad more level when in normal height but also wondering if the front end needs to be realigned after the height changes are made.
 
I’m thinking about doing this up front to make everything a tad more level when in normal height but also wondering if the front end needs to be realigned after the height changes are made.

Yes. There will be some change to toe and caster enough that you'll want to do a re-alignment.

Leveling is not a bad thing as AHC high lifts the rear 20mm more than the front. So starting from a more level normal height will reduce further rake in AHC high.
 
Random occurrence: while we'd be driving in the snow for a bit, using 4-Lo and higher RPMs, I started to smell something that I thought was tire rubber. Then I saw smoke coming from under the hood. When I opened it, I saw it was coming from the firewall, on the passenger side of the block, just inboard from the inlet/outlet heater hoses. It was glowing hot and the insulation was smoking a bit. It was close enough to the heater hoses so I thought that may have something to do with it so I let it cool off then ran with no heat and no rear heat the rest of the trip with no issues. I just had the hose assemblies replaced and coolant flushed in November last year. My OBD scanner showed no issues and normal temps.
Is there a computer or wiring or something that has a propensity to get too hot around that area? Have the coolant pipes been known to do that? I didn't get any pictures unfortunately.
 
When y'all make custom brackets to hold random things out of sight around the frame / engine bay / grille area / etc, what material and what thickness do you normally use? Aluminum is nice because it won't rust, but it can also crack and fail from repeated vibrations (requiring thicker stock to start with). Is 1/16" sufficient thickness for aluminum where it will be rigid & hold it's shape? What about for steel?
 
Is anyone else’s MUD notification auto reading everything for the past few days / week?
 
Is anyone else’s MUD notification auto reading everything for the past few days / week?
Not sure if it’s what’s happening to you or even related, but every once in a while I stop getting emails for new posts. If I log out then log back in, things start acting normally again.
 
Not sure if it’s what’s happening to you or even related, but every once in a while I stop getting emails for new posts. If I log out then log back in, things start acting normally again.

Thanks.
Right now, opening the bell menu in browser on mac or iphone marks everything as read immediately. I have logged in and out in both places without change. Very weird, and it just started randomly a few days ago.
 
Thanks.
Right now, opening the bell menu in browser on mac or iphone marks everything as read immediately. I have logged in and out in both places without change. Very weird, and it just started randomly a few days ago.
My iPhone (Safari) and Edge browser have not been doing that.. maybe someone hacked your account.. or you are narcoleptic and forgetting what’s going on..
 
My iPhone (Safari) and Edge browser have not been doing that.. maybe someone hacked your account.. or you are narcoleptic and forgetting what’s going on..

Ok, i think i found the culprit. This top option got unchecked somehow?
Can i get a courtesy reply to test?

In case it happens to others:

Screenshot 2023-03-21 at 9.33.28 AM.png
 
Ok, i think i found the culprit. This top option got unchecked somehow?
Can i get a courtesy reply to test?

In case it happens to others:

View attachment 3278494

Just to confirm your theory, your screenshot matches my settings and my notifications work correctly.
 
So… this is part question, part vent.
I’m sitting here at my dealer here in Houston getting my all terrains put back on.
(Long story but I’m here instead of Firestone where I bought the winter tires because Firestone broke my tire pressure sensors when installing the winter tires so I don’t trust them to swap the all terrains back on. )

I had an extra rim so I used that as the spare for my winter tires.
I have now put the all terrain spare back on my car but, of course the car is still programmed to the rim with the winter tire on it. So the spare pressure is not registering, as expected.

The dealer is charging me $80 to swap out the 4 tires.
What kills me is to reprogram the rear sensor to register the old rim, they are charging me $160! A total of $240!

So my question; how on earth is the bulk of the cost the reprogramming a single sensor?
 
So… this is part question, part vent.
I’m sitting here at my dealer here in Houston getting my all terrains put back on.
(Long story but I’m here instead of Firestone where I bought the winter tires because Firestone broke my tire pressure sensors when installing the winter tires so I don’t trust them to swap the all terrains back on. )

I had an extra rim so I used that as the spare for my winter tires.
I have now put the all terrain spare back on my car but, of course the car is still programmed to the rim with the winter tire on it. So the spare pressure is not registering, as expected.

The dealer is charging me $80 to swap out the 4 tires.
What kills me is to reprogram the rear sensor to register the old rim, they are charging me $160! A total of $240!

So my question; how on earth is the bulk of the cost the reprogramming a single sensor?
its 10 min in techstream to reprogram.
 
its 10 min in techstream to reprogram.
Yup. I keep telling them that and asking how that 10min procedure is $160.
They shrug and say it is what it is.

If I changed tires regularly I would buy the techstream and do it myself and tell them to pound sand…. But I don’t see myself swapping tires again. All-terrains do fine for my few weeks in Colorado.
I only put winter tires on for my trip to Alaska.
 
Yup. I keep telling them that and asking how that 10min procedure is $160.
They shrug and say it is what it is.

If I changed tires regularly I would buy the techstream and do it myself and tell them to pound sand…. But I don’t see myself swapping tires again. All-terrains do fine for my few weeks in Colorado.
I only put winter tires on for my trip to Alaska.
Welcome to the club. I just had the local Goodyear shop bust my F.R. OEM TPMS when doing a simple patch for a nail I "found". I'm considering 5 new tires anyway so I called my local dealer (Heritage Toyota, Catonsville MD) and asked what they would charge and how long it would take to program 5 NEW OEM TPMS sensors. I was told 2-3 hours @ $165/hr.
 
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Welcome to the club. I just had the local Goodyear shop bust my F.R. OEM TPMS when doing a simple patch for a nail I "found". I'm considering 5 new tires anyway so I called my local dealer (Heritage Toyota, Catonsville MD) what they would charge and how long it would take to program 5 NEW OEM TPMS sensors. I was told 2-3 hours @ $165/hr.
Yikes.
So $330 to $495?
Looks like the techstream is about $250. But then you would need to price in your time.
 

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