SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (10 Viewers)

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Ugh! I was under the wrong impression the SL load rating of the Recons of 2756lbs. was plenty for my 200 and the RCTIP from Gaijin is 33psi. So now I’m confused and I certainly don’t want a unsafe tire load for long distance family trips and I do tend to run over crap in the freeway.
Based on the pdf he uses that is correct. I was looking at their website and the website says max load of 2756 is at 44psi so was just doing rough math from there.

It's rated enough for our rigs. My logic is a truck is supposed to run truck tires ie LT. You'll get more than enough people telling you this is a safe option, but if you also want to enjoy them on fire roads and easy trails you'll be safer with an LT on the trails in my opinion. Don't know where you live or wheel, but I'm on the east coast and there's too many random pointy rocks and branches sticking out even on the easy trails to be comfortable wheeling on street tires.

I'm just a nobody sharing my thoughts on the internet, best bet is dig around on the interwebs and search for information to see if this does suit your needs or not.
 
Based on the pdf he uses that is correct. I was looking at their website and the website says max load of 2756 is at 44psi so was just doing rough math from there.

It's rated enough for our rigs. My logic is a truck is supposed to run truck tires ie LT. You'll get more than enough people telling you this is a safe option, but if you also want to enjoy them on fire roads and easy trails you'll be safer with an LT on the trails in my opinion. Don't know where you live or wheel, but I'm on the east coast and there's too many random pointy rocks and branches sticking out even on the easy trails to be comfortable wheeling on street tires.

I'm just a nobody sharing my thoughts on the internet, best bet is dig around on the interwebs and search for information to see if this does suit your needs or not.
Lol, don’t sell yourself short. I appreciate your advice and others on here as well. I am certainly not knowledgeable about the best tires for the LC. If it’s safe to run these SL tires for long distance/daily pavement duty, I may just keep my Ridge Grapplers for the times I plan on venturing off-road which is a couple times a year. I dislike driving around on heavy E-load A/T for mundane tasks and only using them 5% of the year. I wish they made more D rated tires in larger sizes. I haven’t found any.
 
Based on the pdf he uses that is correct. I was looking at their website and the website says max load of 2756 is at 44psi so was just doing rough math from there.

It's rated enough for our rigs. My logic is a truck is supposed to run truck tires ie LT. You'll get more than enough people telling you this is a safe option, but if you also want to enjoy them on fire roads and easy trails you'll be safer with an LT on the trails in my opinion. Don't know where you live or wheel, but I'm on the east coast and there's too many random pointy rocks and branches sticking out even on the easy trails to be comfortable wheeling on street tires.

I'm just a nobody sharing my thoughts on the internet, best bet is dig around on the interwebs and search for information to see if this does suit your needs or not.
I called Nitto with my concerns and they did state the SL tire is a 7ply. Does this make a difference in your opinion or is the 7 ply standard for all these SL load A/T tires?
 
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Anyone else’s lx flashing lo When you turn it on like it never finished dropping when you turned it off? Im giving it plenty of time before I open the door. Not sure what’s up.
 
Anyone else’s lx flashing lo When you turn it on like it never finished dropping when you turned it off? Im giving it plenty of time before I open the door. Not sure what’s up.
How does the 4Lo switch seem? Have you pulled the switch cover off and seen inside? There is a small metal sleeve that can get out of place in the 4lo switch. What year is your truck/how many miles?
 
My very first "Stupid Question of the Day":


Issue: When parking, or otherwise doing tight slow maneuvering, I get a couple chirps/squeaks from the steering column as I turn the wheel a full rotation. It seems as if the column is rubbing on the firewall grommet when the steering wheel is turning, or something is up with the clock spring. It makes a quick squeak sound like "Rrrruuurp", "Rrrruuurp", "Rrrruuurp".



Related Facts:
1) The clock spring is likely needing to be replaced, because the Cruise Control and dash menu items recently stopped working via the steering wheel controls.
2) I think the noise started after replacing the suspension last month.
3) 2008 LC with 175k miles.

Questions:
1) Is this possibly from a bad clock spring?
2) Is this from where the steering column passes through the firewall?
3) Any other ideas?
 
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My very first "Stupid Question of the Day":


Issue: When parking, or otherwise doing tight slow maneuvering, I get a couple chirps/squeaks from the steering column as I turn the wheel a full rotation. It seems as if the column is rubbing on the firewall grommet when the steering wheel is turning, or something is up with the clock spring. It makes a quick squeak sound like "Rrrruuurp", "Rrrruuurp", "Rrrruuurp".



Related Facts:
1) The clock spring is likely needing to be replaced, because the Cruise Control and dash menu items recently stopped working via the steering wheel controls.
2) I think the noise started after replacing the suspension last month.
3) 2008 LC with 175k miles.

Questions:
1) Is this possibly from a bad clock spring?
2) Is this from where the steering column passes through the firewall?
3) Any other ideas?

SOLVED! Just went out to the truck and was able to solve the squeak pretty easily.

As simple as pulling up an inch of foam from the steering shaft and spraying silicon lubricant on the rubber where the steering shaft passes through the firewall inside near the brake pedal. This removed 80% of the squeak and then spraying the other side where the steering shaft passes into the engine bay completely solved the issue. Squeak free. Easy peasy.



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0918ECEC-4FDA-47FB-B5CE-187C946D3FE8.jpeg
 
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How does the 4Lo switch seem? Have you pulled the switch cover off and seen inside? There is a small metal sleeve that can get out of place in the 4lo switch. What year is your truck/how many miles?
Sorry, not the 4 lo but the lo height. It starts finishing going into low when I start it like it never finished the cycle when I turned it off even though I waited before I opened the door.
 
SOLVED! Just went out to the truck and was able to solve the squeak pretty easily.

As simple as pulling up an inch of foam from the steering shaft and spraying silicon lubricant on the rubber where the steering shaft passes through the firewall inside near the brake pedal. This removed 80% of the squeak and then spraying the other side where the steering shaft passes into the engine bay completely solved the issue. Squeak free. Easy peasy.



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I have that same noise. Silicone sprays helps for a little while but it comes back after a month or two
 
I have that same noise. Silicone sprays helps for a little while but it comes back after a month or two
Maybe hitting it with a higher viscosity grease out of a grease gun will work better? If it comes back, I'll try to hit it with the grease gun.
 
Has anyone tried to bolt up Tundra skids to a 200? RCI makes some really nice options for the Tundra.

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This came up recently as people were wanting to fit the Tundra TRD skid. I feel like people said it worked, but it sort of fizzled as an idea and no one was posting pictures. I think the TRD skid was more expensive than most good aftermarket skids designed for the 200, is why it didn't take off. It may have been on facebook that the "thread" was forming. I'm pretty sure @LFDOffRoad was in on it. They make a Tundra skid, and they tried it on an LX570 and said it fit or needed just a minor modification (Like one extra hole drilled or something).
 
Maybe hitting it with a higher viscosity grease out of a grease gun will work better? If it comes back, I'll try to hit it with the grease gun.
Keep me posted. I’ve tried two different silicone sprays multiple times. No long term help. Not sure if the lift exacerbates this problem or if it’s just a coincidence. I don’t think that part gets greased when new so I’m hesitant to keep dumping more lubricants into that. I actually picked up a replacement boot but then realized there’s a lot more disassembly required to replace the boot than I want to get involved it, and most likely the noise is in the inner boot anyway
 
Just bought a 2008 LC with a few dumb questions:
- It's a Canadian car, purchased and imported from the US into Canada brand new. To my knowledge, the various TSB's haven't been performed (specifically the driveshaft one), will I get hassle from a US dealership to get those done?
- Is it possible to purchase the inner housing portion of the side mirror?
 
This came up recently as people were wanting to fit the Tundra TRD skid. I feel like people said it worked, but it sort of fizzled as an idea and no one was posting pictures. I think the TRD skid was more expensive than most good aftermarket skids designed for the 200, is why it didn't take off. It may have been on facebook that the "thread" was forming. I'm pretty sure @LFDOffRoad was in on it. They make a Tundra skid, and they tried it on an LX570 and said it fit or needed just a minor modification (Like one extra hole drilled or something).
Yep, I had been told originally that the skids weren't even close, so I hadn't tried it yet and was just going to design a new one when we got around to it. When I saw that post I went out and tried one of our Tundra skids, and it basically went right on. The rear two holes were different and needed drilling and the center were off a bit as well. Can't speak to other skid designs but Id assume they'd be close as well.
 
Yep, I had been told originally that the skids weren't even close, so I hadn't tried it yet and was just going to design a new one when we got around to it. When I saw that post I went out and tried one of our Tundra skids, and it basically went right on. The rear two holes were different and needed drilling and the center were off a bit as well. Can't speak to other skid designs but Id assume they'd be close as well.
I’ve read great things about them in the GX crowd.
 
My LC is not in the years you are inquiring about, but I use one of those suction arms that sucks to the windshield and extends to a bit short of the steering wheel and has a small leg to brace it on the dash. I removed the gripping head and replaced it with a MagSafe charger. It’s wonderful and I bet it would work on your model.
I have always hated having to get into the vehicle, put the phone it it’s cradle, and then plug it in. The MagSafe removes the need to plug anything in.

And I like the suction cup arm because it keeps the phone in easy reach and view but it’s also not permanent. I mostly don’t need to see or charge my phone while driving locally so I put the arm away when here in town.
 
And now on to my stupid question:

When I remove the panel on the passenger front side to get to the fuse panel there, the large plastic panel is attached to the car by some clips and a wire.
What is the wire for? It actually goes through the panel and looks like you could insert something from the front passenger footwell.
 

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