SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (5 Viewers)

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I do not have any seat covers or anything on the seat.

I have a release lever (that looks a little different) that releases the entire center section to fold down to create a pass through to the cargo area.

I guess I should rephrase my stupid question - it is only the armrest portion that doesn't latch in an upright and locked position on this particular '16 land cruiser.

I'm not sure how to figure out if it is "working as designed" or broken.

View attachment 2829660
Mine latches just fine. It is released by a little strap I am pretty sure.
I also have a different color interior FWIW.
 
Stopped in my local audio shop today to see what the cost and or parts needed would be for an upgraded sound system. I was told our (LC's) have a proprietary system ( speakers, amp) and that you cannot simply switch out speakers without changing our amp due to the low watts they (OE speakers and amp) pull.

If you did just address the speakers only then the new sound level would be half of the volume we experience, now, at stock because the after market speaker world makes speakers that pull / need more watts
Than our OE system can push. If I have not used the correct audio industry terms pardon me.

Not saying OE is bad or anything, I just wanted to look into alternatives.

Anyone else on here moved forward with upgrading their setup?
What did you do?
Edit: I meant to post this in the "What did you do to your Cruiser this week" thread where they were discussing the problem. I'll post there and apologize here for the cross post.
That is post 158 in this thread. I ran into this with my 2003 Excursion as well. They said that the way Ford wired the system I would need to completely rewire with a new amp to get where i wanted. Just adding speakers would cut the volume in half and sound like crap.
 
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Mine latches just fine. It is released by a little strap I am pretty sure.
I also have a different color interior FWIW.
Mine must be broken then. Thanks for the replies.

Has anyone seen and fixed this?

Below is the same area of the seats, it only has that lever that releases the seat back to make a pass through.

B19D364E-8AB3-4A17-ABBE-E8FB7E0F423C.jpeg
 
Even with a few hard stops, my ‘16 hasn’t had an issue with the middle armrest coming down. My seats are reclined a little bit more however. Perhaps that’s enough to prevent the flopping?
I like this idea, but my cargo boxes prevent further reclining.
 
Mine must be broken then. Thanks for the replies.

Has anyone seen and fixed this?

Below is the same area of the seats, it only has that lever that releases the seat back to make a pass through.

View attachment 2829794
Just checked mine out.
There appears to be a spring mechanism internal to where that black lever is located.

At right about 80° or so the unit snaps into position.
 
@El Skywalker - thank you for checking it out for me. Looks like I need to do some exploratory surgery to see what's going on. Thanks again!
 
@El Skywalker - thank you for checking it out for me. Looks like I need to do some exploratory surgery to see what's going on. Thanks again!


Hmm... Mine is also not working, I suspect some teenagers were not given specific instruction to use the latch.
 
Hmm... Mine is also not working, I suspect some teenagers were not given specific instruction to use the latch.
Maybe we can figure out how to fix it together? If I find time to do some exploratory surgery on it, I'll post a new thread.
 
First time messing with it today and all I can ask is, what moron designed the hitch pin area of these vehicles? It blows my mind how right Toyota can get it with the Land Cruiser and still put some stupid plastic trim in the hitch area that renders 90% of locking hitch pins useless because they can't fit.
 
First time messing with it today and all I can ask is, what moron designed the hitch pin area of these vehicles? It blows my mind how right Toyota can get it with the Land Cruiser and still put some stupid plastic trim in the hitch area that renders 90% of locking hitch pins useless because they can't fit.
Yeah, I had to dremel mine to fit my master lock locking pin.
 
First time messing with it today and all I can ask is, what moron designed the hitch pin area of these vehicles? It blows my mind how right Toyota can get it with the Land Cruiser and still put some stupid plastic trim in the hitch area that renders 90% of locking hitch pins useless because they can't fit.

Totally agree. I ended up going with this stainless steel locking hitch pin that fits perfectly.
Amazon product ASIN B0000ATZDE
 
First time messing with it today and all I can ask is, what moron designed the hitch pin area of these vehicles? It blows my mind how right Toyota can get it with the Land Cruiser and still put some stupid plastic trim in the hitch area that renders 90% of locking hitch pins useless because they can't fit.
I've had good luck with "bulletproof locking pin" 5/8 version. It fits without Dremel work, but is a bit more robust than some of the Amazon versions I've seen sell a lot of.
 
Maybe we can figure out how to fix it together? If I find time to do some exploratory surgery on it, I'll post a new thread.


I think the material is held on with those claws that fish hook in place. Maybe get at it from the rear?

That lever looks like part Seat Back Recliner Adjustment Mechanism Cover 7183460170C0 but I can't see on the diagram how it locks in place.


rear-center-seat-parts.JPG


rear-seat-arm-rest-2.JPG
 
Can anyone help me justify why there is any reason to get the SDHQ hidden winch mount over the Trail Tailor one? SDHQ is $1080 and the TT is only $475.

SDHQ comes with the warn relocation kit, fairlead, and bumper supports.

SDHQ: '08-21 200 Series Toyota Land Cruiser SDHQ Built Hidden Winch Mount - https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections/08-21-200-series-toyota-land-cruiser-off-road-bumpers/products/08-21-200-series-toyota-land-cruiser-sdhq-built-hidden-winch-mount

TT: 200 Series Hidden Winch Mount - https://trail-tailor.com/store/p164/Hidden_Winch_Mount_-_200_Series.html
 
Can anyone help me justify why there is any reason to get the SDHQ hidden winch mount over the Trail Tailor one? SDHQ is $1080 and the TT is only $475.

SDHQ comes with the warn relocation kit, fairlead, and bumper supports.

SDHQ: '08-21 200 Series Toyota Land Cruiser SDHQ Built Hidden Winch Mount - https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections/08-21-200-series-toyota-land-cruiser-off-road-bumpers/products/08-21-200-series-toyota-land-cruiser-sdhq-built-hidden-winch-mount

TT: 200 Series Hidden Winch Mount - https://trail-tailor.com/store/p164/Hidden_Winch_Mount_-_200_Series.html
No, no better reason, the TT one works well, and Jason is a big supporter of this community.
 
Can anyone help me justify why there is any reason to get the SDHQ hidden winch mount over the Trail Tailor one? SDHQ is $1080 and the TT is only $475.

SDHQ comes with the warn relocation kit, fairlead, and bumper supports.

SDHQ: '08-21 200 Series Toyota Land Cruiser SDHQ Built Hidden Winch Mount - https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections/08-21-200-series-toyota-land-cruiser-off-road-bumpers/products/08-21-200-series-toyota-land-cruiser-sdhq-built-hidden-winch-mount

TT: 200 Series Hidden Winch Mount - https://trail-tailor.com/store/p164/Hidden_Winch_Mount_-_200_Series.html
Also, you don't really need a winch relocation kit. I just made a simple "L" shaped bracket to mount mine behind the grille - there's plenty of space there.
 
Broke out the grinding wheel and stripped paint and rust off a number of spots on my steel winch bumper this weekend. I cleaned and painted with POR15. Their rust preventative is glossier than my flat black powder coat was. Questions for the group:
  1. How stable is POR15 to UV? Wondering if I should just paint the whole thing and leave it gloss black instead of flat black.
  2. POR15 has a semi-gloss black top coat available. Anyone ever used that and if so how glossy/flat is it really? Will putting their top coat on make it hard to touch up in the future?
  3. Anyone have experience with using Rustoleum matte clearcoat? I'm considering just painting the whole thing in POR15 and then clearcoating it.
FWIW I'd been using Rustoleum flat black to do touch-ups for the last few years. The color matches initially but UV will fade it over time to be a dull black. Also it apparently does **** all to actually protect the steel since the spots I've touched up (without a clearcoat) are the ones that have rusted the worst.

Ultimately I may remove the bumper, strip it, and paint it, but I'm trying to avoid that because it's 200# with the winch, winter is coming which will suck for painting in my garage, and frankly I know it's just going to get scratched and need maintenance in the future anyway.
 
Broke out the grinding wheel and stripped paint and rust off a number of spots on my steel winch bumper this weekend. I cleaned and painted with POR15. Their rust preventative is glossier than my flat black powder coat was. Questions for the group:
  1. How stable is POR15 to UV? Wondering if I should just paint the whole thing and leave it gloss black instead of flat black.
  2. POR15 has a semi-gloss black top coat available. Anyone ever used that and if so how glossy/flat is it really? Will putting their top coat on make it hard to touch up in the future?
  3. Anyone have experience with using Rustoleum matte clearcoat? I'm considering just painting the whole thing in POR15 and then clearcoating it.
FWIW I'd been using Rustoleum flat black to do touch-ups for the last few years. The color matches initially but UV will fade it over time to be a dull black. Also it apparently does **** all to actually protect the steel since the spots I've touched up (without a clearcoat) are the ones that have rusted the worst.

Ultimately I may remove the bumper, strip it, and paint it, but I'm trying to avoid that because it's 200# with the winch, winter is coming which will suck for painting in my garage, and frankly I know it's just going to get scratched and need maintenance in the future anyway.

Hey Geoff - Check out Zero-Rust, I used it on a steel utility trailer that I leave out in the elements and I have been shocked at how well it holds up. In recent years they have added top coat options including flat and gloss black. I'm considering using it on my 100 series when I finally get around to that project. Even w/o top coating the zero rust primer will turn chalky in the the UV, but it still seems to protect.

Just another option to try.
 
Broke out the grinding wheel and stripped paint and rust off a number of spots on my steel winch bumper this weekend. I cleaned and painted with POR15. Their rust preventative is glossier than my flat black powder coat was. Questions for the group:
  1. How stable is POR15 to UV? Wondering if I should just paint the whole thing and leave it gloss black instead of flat black.
  2. POR15 has a semi-gloss black top coat available. Anyone ever used that and if so how glossy/flat is it really? Will putting their top coat on make it hard to touch up in the future?
  3. Anyone have experience with using Rustoleum matte clearcoat? I'm considering just painting the whole thing in POR15 and then clearcoating it.
FWIW I'd been using Rustoleum flat black to do touch-ups for the last few years. The color matches initially but UV will fade it over time to be a dull black. Also it apparently does **** all to actually protect the steel since the spots I've touched up (without a clearcoat) are the ones that have rusted the worst.

Ultimately I may remove the bumper, strip it, and paint it, but I'm trying to avoid that because it's 200# with the winch, winter is coming which will suck for painting in my garage, and frankly I know it's just going to get scratched and need maintenance in the future anyway.

There is a dude on YouTube that did a great review/compare on a lot of the products. His channel is called Project Farm and he does really thorough reviews/comparisons of everything you can imagine. He did one on POR15, Rustoleum etc recently.




 
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There is a dude on YouTube that did a great review/compare on a lot of the products. His channel is called Project Farm and he does really thorough reviews/comparisons of everything you can imagine. He did one on POR15, Rustoleum etc recently.
The Project Farm guy seems to generally do a good job on the review content, but definitely isn't a dynamic presenter :). I don't always agree with all the tests he uses to compare the products he tests, but I do think he is pretty unbiased.
 

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