SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Yes, I have one in my HE
Thanks! My wife is old school and loves her CD's!
Yeah, go back to being stupid!Aren't we a bit far afield from the Stupid Question of the Day theme here?
For the sake of others looking for answers to these questions in the future, wouldn't a separate thread be better?
Just sayin'
JK. Good info, agree needs own thread so that it is easier to search.
How easy is it to swap out the headlight housing on the first gen 200s? I have an '11 and would like to replace both headlights due to yellowing. I've replaced housings in the past very quickly and easily on Jeeps and 4Runners, and never faced any significant issues. However, before I order the housings, I figured I should ask if there is anything I need to keep in mind. Any additional parts or brackets I might need in case of breakage, etc?
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
Not hard but also not simple. I would rate it as “Easy but involved” Which is based on my hazy memory of my mechanic doing it while I was installing spacers and removing the rear seats. I’m sure someone could post the FSM procedure.
edit: mine is a 2013 so may not be the same.
afgman786
SILVER Star
Easy! The FSM says you need to remove the whole front bumper which isn't true. I did mine in 30mins or so.
Great to hear that. I was figuring since it’s still standard bulb-in-housing setup that it wouldn’t prove too difficult, but glad to hear the confirmation. Thanks!
afgman786
SILVER Star
Question time:
Can 10mm offset change make a noise appear?
RW on 33s rotational noise between 20-40 driver front. Doesn't sound like the ticking people have posted for CV. Did tire rotation to see if noise followed the wheel, no dice.
Stock rim on 33s and no noise. Back to RW on 35s being new tires and the dang noise is back! Weights on the wheel aren't in a place to hit the caliper and couldn't find anything that would be rubbing.
Noise is similar to the noise of wet flip flops or the like is best I can explain.
Can 10mm offset change make a noise appear?
RW on 33s rotational noise between 20-40 driver front. Doesn't sound like the ticking people have posted for CV. Did tire rotation to see if noise followed the wheel, no dice.
Stock rim on 33s and no noise. Back to RW on 35s being new tires and the dang noise is back! Weights on the wheel aren't in a place to hit the caliper and couldn't find anything that would be rubbing.
Noise is similar to the noise of wet flip flops or the like is best I can explain.
Put some air in those 35s
afgman786
SILVER Star
Running 40psi and 33s did it also. Its only driver front and rotation didn't move the noise
Sounds like it is maybe hitting the inner fender or front mud flap? I would look for a rub mark.
Last edited:
Debating switched vs unswitched power for a secondary fuse block in the 3rd row. I'm leaning switched, but two questions:
- Unswitched is easy as I can just run it to my fuse block or circuit breaker under the engine. What's the best way to do switched (ignition) power though for a ~30A piggyback circuit like this? Some sort of relay?
- Anyone have any genius ideas which would let me do both and choose depending on the circuit? For instance I'd like the 12V outlet in the 3rd row to be switched because my daughter will leave her electronics plugged in and drain the battery, but I might want some rear LED lighting which is unswitched so I can toggle it whenever I'm back there.
1world1love
SILVER Star
Couldn't you run a relay to a switched fuse and then run the main directly to your unswitched block? I am sure there is another way, but that may be one option.
Yes I think so. I believe I need a relay for each switched device in this case... not a huge deal except most of my devices are likely to end up being switched. Or maybe a DPST relay? Or is there another way if I want to enable 3 of 6 circuits as switched? I'm not an electrical engineer and I always have to google around for various diagrams of this stuff to figure it out.
Any ideas the best place to tap for ignition power if I'm planning to mount this driver's side 3rd row, more or less where the rear seat is (was)? Do I need to run all the way up front? (I can stare through the wiring diagrams but thought I'd ask in case someone else has done it already).
1world1love
SILVER Star
Yeah, I'm no expert either, but I thought about this awhile back. It seems like you could run one switched line to the main fuse box with a "tap-a-fuse", then you can run a larger gauge for your main. Your main would provide the always on power on one fuse block and your relay would provide the switched on another fuse block. You would still need two runs to the back, but you can add a fuse block or bus once you get back there. You just need to make sure to have a relay and fuse block within limits of what you expect to use -voltage drop.
I may not have made that clear, but hopefully it makes sense.
I may not have made that clear, but hopefully it makes sense.
greynolds
SILVER Star
It would be really nice if there was a way to easily hook into a switched connection that's already in the cargo area (ideally without cutting any factory wires). You could then use a relay triggered by that switched connection to handle as many switched circuits as you desire from the main power feed(s) you ran from the engine bay. Circuits that don't go through the relay will be always on. Obviously, you need to make sure the cable coming from the engine bay is properly fused and capable of the combined switched and unswitched load AND the relay used is capable of handling the total switched load.
I don't believe you need to have separate relays for each switched load - the key is making sure the relay you use can handle the total load you're going to run through it.
I already have outlets wired up on both sides of the cargo area and I've been thinking about how to make some of them switched. I'll be installing a cellular router soon to provide my EC Offroad Android unit with a good Internet connection, so I'm going to need to figure out where to mount it and how best to get switched power to it as I definitely won't want it running 24/7.
I don't believe you need to have separate relays for each switched load - the key is making sure the relay you use can handle the total load you're going to run through it.
I already have outlets wired up on both sides of the cargo area and I've been thinking about how to make some of them switched. I'll be installing a cellular router soon to provide my EC Offroad Android unit with a good Internet connection, so I'm going to need to figure out where to mount it and how best to get switched power to it as I definitely won't want it running 24/7.
Yeah I think I follow. One relay and two fuse blocks, or one fuse block and multiple relays. Either way I can use the same + run I think, and either way I only need to tap a switched source once, just a question of whether I split the 8AWG + line to 2 fuse blocks or I split the switched line to multiple relays
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I see some wisdom in runnning through a Switch-Pros like someone here did, maybe @TeCKis300? The big benefit I see is that it gives you protection from running the battery down too far. The Switch-Pros only has a handful of 35 amp relays though, so I think that would put limitations on your wire size and circuit capacity. And I suspect you’d still want to protect the wires going back to the cargo area with fuses or circuit breakers. Maybe too complex. I’m still mulling how I want this one set up.
