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Is there a reason that one "must" go to an after market a-arm if running OEM tire size?

I am thinking of installing the BP51 lift and leaving the a-arms stock, and leaving the tires stock.
Is there any harm in this?

I am thinking down the road if I go to a larger tire size then get an a-arm to align it.
 
Is there a reason that one "must" go to an after market a-arm if running OEM tire size?

I am thinking of installing the BP51 lift and leaving the a-arms stock, and leaving the tires stock.
Is there any harm in this?

I am thinking down the road if I go to a larger tire size then get an a-arm to align it.

Remember - there are two OEM tire sizes for the LC200:

- P285/60R18 on 18x8x60 wheels
- LT285/70R17 on 17x8x50 wheels

Either set-up requires no alignment changes to switch from one to the other, both work with the stock A-arms, and neither show any rubbing under any circumstances.

Installing BP-51 suspension should not change any of these parameters and should work fine with the stock A-arms.

HTH
 
Is there a reason that one "must" go to an after market a-arm if running OEM tire size?

I am thinking of installing the BP51 lift and leaving the a-arms stock, and leaving the tires stock.
Is there any harm in this?

I am thinking down the road if I go to a larger tire size then get an a-arm to align it.

The need for aftermarket upper a-arms, also known and upper control arms (UCAs), is completely dependent on the amount of lift. Not really tire size.

At something roughly more than 2-2.25", the adjust-ability of the stock arm is no longer sufficient to bring alignment back in spec. Specifically caster and camber. The larger adjustment range provided by aftermarket arms can be helpful here.

Remember I said not really tire size? That's only partially true. At more extreme tire sizes, >34" in tire diameter, some have found aftermarket UCAs useful to not only adjust for alignment, but also physical position of the tire within the wheel well opening. One can create clearance against the rear body mount by moving the tire forward in the wheel well to a degree. Note that extreme adjustment for position can stress the CVs.

All that said, one may want to look long and hard at using aftermarket UCAs. The reality is that stock arms are better for long term durability and OEM levels of quiet and performance. Many aftermarket UCAs require regular greasing, tend to make more noise, and may need premature replacements.
 
Thanks ! ... FYI for now I have the 31.5" tires on 18" wheels. The BP-51 is more to adjust for the boxes, skids and bumpers added weight.
And add a little more wheel travel.

I should have mentioned 31.5" tires and a 2" lift.
Thanks again !
 
Is there a ‘standard’ ball height I should aim for with my hitch? I have to use a basic utility trailer this weekend, but figure I should set up for the future while I’m at it.
 
17" off the ground it a good average for uhaul trailers. As you know it does depend on the trailer so they do make adjustable ones.

I received a standard "Toyota" land cruiser one when I got my 200 and it looks like about a 3" drop.
 
^Ayup.

You'll find some information that suggests free height as 18", as the expectation with load is that the suspension will droop a bit, bringing it down to the standard 17".

@grinchy, just know that since you have an LX, the suspension doesn't really droop with load. So starting height is about the final height. Not so important with small trailers, but bigger trailers should be as close to level as possible.
 
Was looking at my UCAs a couple days ago. There is a sweep of grease from the ball joint. How big an issue is this? My truck has a lot of miles; I’m wondering if all these bushings and joint need to be R&Red?
 
Does front 12v power socket sharing same fuse as cigarette lighter socket? Mine not works, but upper is OK. What could be a possible reason ? Thanks in advance.
 
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Why is the lift on my rear left 1/2" higher than the rear right?

I install the BP-51 lift on my 2016 LC200 this weekend.
For some reason the lift came out near perfect, but the rear left (rear driver side) is approx 1/2 inch higher than the rear right.
I double check the springs and they seem correctly installed.
In looking at the OEM springs it appears the driver side rear spring is a slightly shorter than the passenger rear spring.

Out of the box the OME rear springs seemed to be identical. 2724 the 800 lb ones.
 
Why is the lift on my rear left 1/2" higher than the rear right?

I install the BP-51 lift on my 2016 LC200 this weekend.
For some reason the lift came out near perfect, but the rear left (rear driver side) is approx 1/2 inch higher than the rear right.
I double check the springs and they seem correctly installed.
In looking at the OEM springs it appears the driver side rear spring is a slightly shorter than the passenger rear spring.

Out of the box the OME rear springs seemed to be identical. 2724 the 800 lb ones.

You are lucky its only a half inch. Mine is much worse. Pretty sure it is a rather common issue that I think some have found solutions for. I haven't looked into it too much, so curious if it is an easy fix.
 
Why is the lift on my rear left 1/2" higher than the rear right?

I install the BP-51 lift on my 2016 LC200 this weekend.
For some reason the lift came out near perfect, but the rear left (rear driver side) is approx 1/2 inch higher than the rear right.
I double check the springs and they seem correctly installed.
In looking at the OEM springs it appears the driver side rear spring is a slightly shorter than the passenger rear spring.

Out of the box the OME rear springs seemed to be identical. 2724 the 800 lb ones.

You can adjust some rear lean by using the adjustable front coilovers. Easier than that is using small 5mm/10mm trim spacers ontop of the rear coils. With KDSS you may need to balance it a few times before it levels perfectly. Is this a kit that came from Cruiser Outfitters? If so give us a ring with your invoice information (or just name) and we'll get you taken care of!
 
You can adjust some rear lean by using the adjustable front coilovers. Easier than that is using small 5mm/10mm trim spacers ontop of the rear coils. With KDSS you may need to balance it a few times before it levels perfectly. Is this a kit that came from Cruiser Outfitters? If so give us a ring with your invoice information (or just name) and we'll get you taken care of!


Thanks,

I am thinking to just trying to re balance the KDSS again ... I need to just lift the LC letting the tires hang .. then loosen the KDSS valve for a couple minutes and then re tighten it, then lower the vehicle ... .. correct?
 
Thanks,

I am thinking to just trying to re balance the KDSS again ... I need to just lift the LC letting the tires hang .. then loosen the KDSS valve for a couple minutes and then re tighten it, then lower the vehicle ... .. correct?

Park it on perfectly flat ground, open the KDSS valves per the instructions and let it sit.

Did this come from Cruiser Outfitters?
 
Thanks .. no but I'm a fan of Monica !!
 
I tried flat and that didn't work .. but then I loosed them 2.5 turns .. backed up the rear left on a 4" x 4" then tighten them .. now within 1/4".

Thanks for the help .. it's fixed now.
 
I tried flat and that didn't work .. but then I loosed them 2.5 turns .. backed up the rear left on a 4" x 4" then tighten them .. now within 1/4".

Thanks for the help .. it's fixed now.

I'd give them shop you ordered it from a call. They should have a few additional options to help you solve your issue.
 
Trying to get my head around CCA, as it relates to lithium jump boxes. I know the CCA for battery recommendations. But what is the actual draw? What’s bare minimum for a jump box?
 

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