SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (9 Viewers)

[OregonLC]

When I look on the BFG site, I see a recommended rim width range for the LT305/70R16E 124/121R of 8"-9.5" (All-Terrain T/A KO2 | BFGoodrich Tires).

Am I missing something?

Edit to add:

From the BFG link above:

Nope, you're not missing a thing. My mistake. I had quickly looked on the chart to find an example and misread it.

My real-world example was a few years back on the 100. I was considering going to KO2 and there weren't very many choices available in an 18" size. I had been running a 295/70R18 in a Nitto. The closest size match in the KO2 would have been a 305/65R18 or 34x12.5R18. Both of those had minimum rim width of 8.5". The Toyota rims are 8" and they wouldn't do the install.

 

[TeCKis300]

I had 305s too on my 100 series (305/60r18) which were in spec for the stock 18x8" wheels there. That rig took those without any spacers or mods!

I'm convinced that a 35x12.5R20 could fit rather easily on an LX570 with a .75" spacer and minor trimming. I would do this if I didn't tow such a heavy trailer, or were willing to go through the trouble to re-gear.

 

[Markuson]

I had 305s too on my 100 series (305/60r18) which were in spec for the stock 18x8" wheels there. That rig took those without any spacers or mods!

I'm convinced that a 35x12.5R20 could fit rather easily on an LX570 with a .75" spacer and minor trimming. I would do this if I didn't tow such a heavy trailer, or were willing to go through the trouble to re-gear.

Do you mean a wheel spacer?

It might fit, but with a stock bumper in place, I'm thinking you'll have to drive only in straight lines...

Driving from the tire shop three miles from Slee with 35's BEFORE we swapped to my TJM bull bar was funny indeed.

SCRRRRRRAAAAAAAPE!

 

[CarolinaWhaler]

Even when it's in my garage? Well that's a pain.

My gripe is the sensors seem to have gone numb. Often when I approach the truck (doors locked, spare key at home), the interior lights will wake up, so I know the truck know's I'm there, but when I put my hand on the door handle, nothing happens. Hand off, back on... still nothing. Sometimes it takes 3-4 tries to get the truck to unlock the doors. I feel like a damned fool doing this hand on, hand off dance out in the parking lot.

And often when I get out and shut the doors, I have to push the little button on the door or tailgate 3-4 times to get the truck to lock. Really annoying.

KLF - Have you had any luck with this issue? I've noticed the same thing on my '08 recently. Sensors on other doors work great, but no response when I put my hand on the drivers handle. Curious if anyone has been able to address it. Thanks.

 

[KLF]

KLF - Have you had any luck with this issue? I've noticed the same thing on my '08 recently. Sensors on other doors work great, but no response when I put my hand on the drivers handle. Curious if anyone has been able to address it. Thanks.

Nope. Issue seems random. Sometimes I have to push the little lock button on the door handle several times to get the doors to lock.

 

[TeCKis300]

Do you mean a wheel spacer?

It might fit, but with a stock bumper in place, I'm thinking you'll have to drive only in straight lines...

Driving from the tire shop three miles from Slee with 35's BEFORE we swapped to my TJM bull bar was funny indeed.

SCRRRRRRAAAAAAAPE!

Thanks and you are certainly the in house expert having 35's on your rig. Are you running any spacer with your RW? Or just straight up wheels and tires, so 50mm offset?

I'm just looking at my current 33.2" x 12.3" spec tires that that I fit with practically no effort. Still have full mudflaps and nothing cut. So doesn't seem to be too much a stretch to go 35x12.5r20s which spec to be 34.6" 12.5". 1.4" taller and .2" wider. Or looked at another way, just .7" larger in radius which doesn't seem to be too bad. But again, theorizing and reality are different right?

 

[Markuson]

Thanks and you are certainly the in house expert having 35's on your rig. Are you running any spacer with your RW? Or just straight up wheels and tires, so 50mm offset?

I'm just looking at my current 33.2" x 12.3" spec tires that that I fit with practically no effort. Still have full mudflaps and nothing cut. So doesn't seem to be too much a stretch to go 35x12.5r20s which spec to be 34.6" 12.5". 1.4" taller and .2" wider. Or looked at another way, just .7" larger in radius which doesn't seem to be too bad. But again, theorizing and reality are different right?

That's surprising to me. But then I drive an 08 LC, not LX. Perhaps there is more room front to back in the wheel well?

Don't know. Worst case--you go to Discount tire...try it...and they end up switching back. No harm in trying, right?

 

[Mutant]

Anyone have ideas for a "Pre-Filter" air cleaner within the OEM air intake setup? I am going through Air Filters too often. Extremely dusty conditions.

 

[gaijin]

Anyone have ideas for a "Pre-Filter" air cleaner within the OEM air intake setup? I am going through Air Filters too often. Extremely dusty conditions.

Are you determining it's time to change the filter based on appearance or on measured restriction?

Do you have one of these installed?

A filter can look pretty dirty, but still not restrict air flow.

HTH

 

[OregonLC]

Keep in mind the only time a clogged filter is decreasing performance is at WOT. At any other throttle position the throttle body is more restrictive and is the limiting factor. I know we all feel better with a clean filter, but as is said above it's not necessarily restricting vehicle performance until you're doing something like merging with a trailer where you truly are WOT for more than a second.

That said, I do wish Toyota had the cyclonic style filters they have overseas. Those do a really good job of spinning out the junk before it hits the filter and even have a little drain nipple on the bottom to discard the accumulation. Helps keep everything happy in really dusty environs.

 

[zmf]

Didn't want to start a new thread, and this could be a completely stupid question, so I'm putting it here. I'm expecting some RWs to come any day now. I need lug nuts. I can get PTR27-60110 from Amazon for $175 https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyo...F8&qid=1520680535&sr=8-1&keywords=ptr27-60110 Since the keyed lugs are crap, I'll need another 4, $25 from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QB5A42/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1. I found the big set on ebay for about $165, but total price is $190-$200 for 20 lugs and tool.

Or I could get 5 sets of the 4 lugs, plus the tool separate for $13 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COMXAY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 for a total of $140.

These are all McGard, which I understand is the Toyota OEM supplier, and the quality better be good for the cost. The question is, what am I missing? I was debating the $20 ebay set, but I think I've talked myself out of that with this sub $150 solution.

 

[Markuson]

Didn't want to start a new thread, and this could be a completely stupid question, so I'm putting it here. I'm expecting some RWs to come any day now. I need lug nuts. I can get PTR27-60110 from Amazon for $175 https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyo...F8&qid=1520680535&sr=8-1&keywords=ptr27-60110 Since the keyed lugs are crap, I'll need another 4, $25 from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QB5A42/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1. I found the big set on ebay for about $165, but total price is $190-$200 for 20 lugs and tool.

Or I could get 5 sets of the 4 lugs, plus the tool separate for $13 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COMXAY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 for a total of $140.

These are all McGard, which I understand is the Toyota OEM supplier, and the quality better be good for the cost. The question is, what am I missing? I was debating the $20 ebay set, but I think I've talked myself out of that with this sub $150 solution.

McGards should be fine. I have several and no issues. The units really worth avoiding are the third party units that do NOT have the conical washer at the bottom. Without the washers, it grinds into the metal.

 

[KLF]

OK, I have searched and searched, but can't find it. I know that at some point the instructions have been posted on how to remove that huge plastic panel in the rear cargo area on the passenger side. I need to replace my fuel filler door, but need to get behind it. Don't want to just start yanking on plastic for fear of breaking something really expensive.

@TonyP , maybe it was you? Wish I had access to the full diagrams.

Once I get this done, the ARB drawers are going in.

 

[Markuson]

First you need to remove the little cargo net thingy by turning it 90 degrees and pulling it out.

Under the hook, you'll find a screw to remove:

You can also pop the edge material around the seat-release lever... and then there is also a small plate visible behind the lever with two small screw-driver slots to easily pop it out. Behind that, you'll find another attachment point. I can't remember if you have to remove this bolt for panel removal or not, but you might. No biggie.

The surround panel just pops out with a twist of a flat-head screwdriver, and the inner plate too. The surround and inner plate are pictured below after removal:

You MAY also have to pop the window-sill panel (where those weird, tiny cup holders are) to make side panel removal easier. Can't remember, but again, easy to do .

Hope this helps.

 

[KLF]

I have all those steps done (Thank you @Markuson !), but I'm at the point of getting the cupholder and panel behind it pried up. I have lots of plastic panel removal tools, but I can't get them to come up, they are SUPER tight, I can't even get a flat pry tool under the edge. Want to make sure I am doing this correctly before I get pry any harder.

I'm also gonna have to pull out the subwoofer.

 

[Markuson]

I have all those steps done (Thank you @Markuson !), but I'm at the point of getting the cupholder and panel behind it pried up. I have lots of plastic panel removal tools, but I can't get them to come up, they are SUPER tight, I can't even get a flat pry tool under the edge. Want to make sure I am doing this correctly before I get pry any harder.

I'm also gonna have to pull out the subwoofer.

Ya, I can't help you with certainty on the cupholder panel, since mine has been seriously customized.

I could swear that I was able to remove the side panel pretty easily though, when I installed hatch lights and ran wires from underneath. Frankly can't remember now. I'm sure others will chime in.

(Dusty and scraped from treating my LC like a truck...)

 

[indycole]

There’s a chance the cup holder can’t come off unless the QP is first removed.

 

[TonyP]

I'll check the fsm when I get home .

 

[Markuson]

Looks like if you want to completely remove that entire panel, it's a little more complicated.

Since you need to remove the Sub-Woofer...these instructions get you through that...including full side panel removal.

Skip down to where the pictures start and it will make sense. Note the two screws...one I already mentioned, and another hidden under the floor attachment near the tail gate.

See next post...

 

[Markuson]

Continued from above...

TADAAAAA!!!

Piece o' cake, right?

-M