I've only seen it on the LC 100 in the 2006/2007 years.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (18 Viewers)
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Thanks for the confirmation.
With E rated ST Maxx 25 psig is my default starting point. Good all-around number for a 7,500-8,000 lbs rig on typical trails. Go down from there as trail conditions warrant.
RET2
SILVER Star
^^ agree, I use 26psi but thats based on my routine of placing Staun's on the tires and when done I go to first tire and remove and so forth
Markuson
SILVER Star
20-24ish though I've gone significantly lower in soft, sinky sand.
But it really depends on your specific tire and terrain, since sidewalls flatten out at really different PSIs. Some are super stiff...others not. My Ridge Grapplers are kinda pudgy even at street pressure.
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This is a good topic to clarify. Airing down grows the tread contact patch primarily in length, not in width. This is why tall, skinny tires (sometimes called 'Pizza Cutters' are often the preferred size. A wider tire won't grow as much in length because each unit of growth is multiplied by the cross section - pounds per square inch of contact is what supports the vehicle.
A wider tire, however, may 'float' better on softer material, although I read some stuff where a tall/skinny actually performs better on sand. But the real reason to go wide is because they look cool at the mall.
A wider tire, however, may 'float' better on softer material, although I read some stuff where a tall/skinny actually performs better on sand. But the real reason to go wide is because they look cool at the mall.
Markuson
SILVER Star
This is a good topic to clarify. Airing down grows the tread contact patch primarily in length, not in width. This is why tall, skinny tires (sometimes called 'Pizza Cutters' are often the preferred size. A wider tire won't grow as much in length because each unit of growth is multiplied by the cross section - pounds per square inch of contact is what supports the vehicle.
A wider tire, however, may 'float' better on softer material, although I read some stuff where a tall/skinny actually performs better on sand. But the real reason to go wide is because they look cool at the mall.
Agree about length & skinnies (& the mall-haha), but it's also true that part of the reason more aggressive tires have significant tread extending into the sidewall is so they can help grab when aired way down.
I use 20psi and it rides like a cloud on washboard running.
Bead retention would be a consideration on certain technical types of trails and aggressiveness of driving. The old school practice of wide tire on a narrow rim helps in this regard, to lower air pressure, which is another reason I prefer wide tires.
In my mind, narrow tires while "better", may not make enough difference to forward traction in most surfaces. But flotation will make that difference in progress or not on really soft stuff.
Bead retention would be a consideration on certain technical types of trails and aggressiveness of driving. The old school practice of wide tire on a narrow rim helps in this regard, to lower air pressure, which is another reason I prefer wide tires.
In my mind, narrow tires while "better", may not make enough difference to forward traction in most surfaces. But flotation will make that difference in progress or not on really soft stuff.
The trouble with wide on narrow is that many tire shops won't do this any longer because it violates the manufacturers recommendation. If you look on BFG's specs, for example, a 305/70R16 requires a 9" rim width per BFG. This is wider than the OE Toyota rim and therefore Discount won't install them because of potential liability. At least the two near me won't.
You're right. I'm not suggesting running outside of manufacturers recommendations as that makes load and capacities specs uncertain. Though I can't say I've never gone outside of those boundaries either.
Only suggesting running on the tighter end of the approved rim widths. For retention and wheel protection. Many lower profile 305 aspect ratios require a 9" and up. But just as many taller tires, as my 305/55/20s, allow for 8.5" wheels.
Only suggesting running on the tighter end of the approved rim widths. For retention and wheel protection. Many lower profile 305 aspect ratios require a 9" and up. But just as many taller tires, as my 305/55/20s, allow for 8.5" wheels.
Sinister
SILVER Star
18-20psi for soft sand beaches
I've got as low as 10psi in snow!
Markuson
SILVER Star
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
My travels have brought me to these pressures:
25 psi of general gravel roads
22 psi for mud boggin' (yes, you have to say it that way... boggin'!) and sand
19 psi for general trail riding and hardcore rock crawling
15 psi for slippery mud covered rocky trails that don't have rocks bigger than 25"
12 psi for deep snow
25 psi of general gravel roads
22 psi for mud boggin' (yes, you have to say it that way... boggin'!) and sand
19 psi for general trail riding and hardcore rock crawling
15 psi for slippery mud covered rocky trails that don't have rocks bigger than 25"
12 psi for deep snow
gaijin
GOLD Star
When I look on the BFG site, I see a recommended rim width range for the LT305/70R16E 124/121R of 8"-9.5" (All-Terrain T/A KO2 | BFGoodrich Tires).
Am I missing something?
Edit to add:
From the BFG link above:
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Markuson
SILVER Star
When I look on the BFG site, I see a recommended rim width range for the LT305/70R16E 124/121R of 8"-9.5" (All-Terrain T/A KO2 | BFGoodrich Tires).
Am I missing something?
Edit to add:
From the BFG link above:
The only thing you're missing, Gaijin (
), is the broken brain-chip with which most of us are afflicted...when it comes to absolute precision regarding wheels/tires/ratings/PSI. 
-That's one more reason (besides being a good guy) that you are hereby forbidden from ever leaving Mud.
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I will second that. I once had a gas can (for my lawn mower) fall over in the back of my 4Runner. Steam cleaning, detail shop, and even an ozonator couldn't get rid of the smell. My last ditch effort before dumping it at Carmax was a bottle of Febreeze. Amazingly it worked.
