Rollercams straps are sweet. Been using a set for 10 years.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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CharlieS
GOLD Star
I like the quantity and lengths offered in the overlanding kit, what stopped me from buying was that there wasn't an option to buy all loop ends, which for me is also a big differentiator for their solution (after the roller part).
Interesting. I bought a couple loop ends a few years ago and they don't get used much. I tend to use double length straps and loop on themselves. Perhaps I should be using the loops more.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Probably just personal preference. About half of my straps have hooks, which are great on a trailer, to tie down a motorcycle, etc, but I don't like them for strapping stuff the the roof rack or the jerry can carrier, or to my internal anchoring system (loops, both bolted in and movable on an airline track type setup). I have some Nitize ones that I like used in the way you describe looping back to themselves, and they've been great. Most of the time, I don't need the second part of the loop, I just do it because that's the way the straps are designed to work. I could be wrong. Let me try these loop style for a bit - I may not find them as useful as I imagine.
Clarification: what I don't like about hooks is if they aren't kept under tension (shifting load, something that compresses), they can slip or come off. When they hold fast, they work well.
Clarification: what I don't like about hooks is if they aren't kept under tension (shifting load, something that compresses), they can slip or come off. When they hold fast, they work well.
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For applications where the hook doesn't work well, like what you mentioned or anchoring to a point where the hook won't fit, I feed a section of the strap through the anchor point, back through the hook's eye, then that loop goes around the hook. Once pulled tight it stays put even when the strap is loose. I hope that makes sense.
The loop end straps sound good but this is how I am getting by with the pile of hooks that have built up over the years.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Thanks, that had actually never occurred to me. That's a great idea. I feel like a dope now...
I was wondering where other fuse blocks were. I found the information in the manual. Are there any fragile plastic tabs I should be aware of before getting into the driver or passenger fuses?
Please chime in if you use M1 75W-90 in your diffs. I've read several of the threads covering diff oil but have not found definitive information marking it GTG due to the LS additive. I own a 2016.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Don’t worry about it.
The tabs on both the driver side and the passenger side are pretty robust.
I need help with some ideas on why my reverse lights are not working?
The vehicle reverse lights are not working but the trailer reverse lights are working.
The 10 amp fuse called "BKUP LP" under the driver dash is ok.
The 7.5 amp fuse called TRLR BKUP under the glove box is ok.
What else could cause the vehicle backup lights to not work? Any Ideas?
I was re-wiring my rear ARB bumper signal lights so that they worked wired off the trailer plug harness.
I accidently shorted the yellow trailer back light up wire when installing the re-wire, so it popped the 7.5 amp fuse for the trailer backup lights located under the glove box.
I finished wiring the 2 way to 3 way device for the signal lights and now all the signal, brake and running lights all work as they should.
I replaced the 7.5 amp fuse and the trailer backup lights are now working BUT the vehicle backup lights are not.
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong fuse or is there another fuse some where?
The vehicle reverse lights are not working but the trailer reverse lights are working.
The 10 amp fuse called "BKUP LP" under the driver dash is ok.
The 7.5 amp fuse called TRLR BKUP under the glove box is ok.
What else could cause the vehicle backup lights to not work? Any Ideas?
I was re-wiring my rear ARB bumper signal lights so that they worked wired off the trailer plug harness.
I accidently shorted the yellow trailer back light up wire when installing the re-wire, so it popped the 7.5 amp fuse for the trailer backup lights located under the glove box.
I finished wiring the 2 way to 3 way device for the signal lights and now all the signal, brake and running lights all work as they should.
I replaced the 7.5 amp fuse and the trailer backup lights are now working BUT the vehicle backup lights are not.
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong fuse or is there another fuse some where?
terrapin
SILVER Star
OK. I've done many brake jobs, but today I screwed up (must be the cold weather). I removed two of the caliper assembly bolts instead of the caliper mounting bolts. There are four bolts holding the caliper together so I don't think it separated. The line in the first photo is a shadow.
Does anybody know what I should torque these to? They were pretty tight so I'm thinking I might torque them to 73 ft lbs like the caliper mounting bolts. They are the bolts with the socket on them in the photos. I loosened one upper one and one lower one, not the two side-by-side ones on either side of the bleeder valve.
Looks like I also need a new bleed valve cap.
Does anybody know what I should torque these to? They were pretty tight so I'm thinking I might torque them to 73 ft lbs like the caliper mounting bolts. They are the bolts with the socket on them in the photos. I loosened one upper one and one lower one, not the two side-by-side ones on either side of the bleeder valve.
Looks like I also need a new bleed valve cap.
Apologies on resurrecting a long-ago-addressed thread... Is it possible to swap these end links without touching the shock mounting? Wondering if anyone has slotted a crows foot or offset wrench in there for the nut inside the cavity, behind the shock bolt? Don't have either in the right size so just thought I'd source some intel before buying one or the other.
Oh, cool. I just glanced the other day and saw a hex head behind there and assumed it was a freestanding nut. Thanks for the intel!
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Well, I should say that it was captive on both of the 200 series I've owned.
Don't worry, if someone is going to run into an anomalous exception, it'll be me.
Have you checked the bulbs? I replaced mine with brighter LEDs and they have both blown out twice. Although the first time one caught on fire briefly and toasted the whole light assembly.
The Osram 35W 12V GY6.35 is by far the best reverse light upgrade. They are better than any led.
Amazon product ASIN B001BMUFN8
I just did the Sylvanias. I have no other LED to compare to, but they’re much better than factory.
