I can’t find this part number to save my life, any ideas?
Builds Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit)
- Thread starter spyduh
- Start date
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I can’t find this part number to save my life, any ideas?
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 200
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- 12,478
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
- Thread starter
- #223
Delta shifter console, Switch Pro 9100, Plx Gauges, TRD OEM Boost gauge, Tmax Dual Batt and 12v wiring. Need to cleanup my Wits End Useless cubby but she's almost complete.
Had to remove my TUFFY cup holder for now. Still waiting on my @Delta VS center console to finish the interior.
Had to remove my TUFFY cup holder for now. Still waiting on my @Delta VS center console to finish the interior.
- Thread starter
- #224
So my batt was disconnected for a day because I was working on wiring. So by default the ECU forgot the saved parameters and it had to relearn again. I let it warm up and then headed to the freeway. It definitely felt FASTER like it did the first time I took it for a spin. I think the ECU either gave it more fuel in the beginning so it runs richer thus creating more HP. Either I need to work on an intercooler or meth injection to bring temps down (also creating more HP).
I set my timing with my crappy Harbor Freight timing gun and I know it's not accurate because I've tested it against my buddies Snao-On timing gun. Generally its off by 1-2 degrees. Usually not a big deal on N/A cars but since this is F/I it does make a difference since we're using factory ecu. So I'm headed to my buddies shop tonight to use his SnapOn timing gun to set it exactly at 3degrees. One thing to note. I've been consistenly monitoring my AFR and the factory ECu is doing a good job. 14.7 at idle and 10-12's on FULL throttle. In other words, rich = good on full peddle. Lean = BOOM on full peddle.
I set my timing with my crappy Harbor Freight timing gun and I know it's not accurate because I've tested it against my buddies Snao-On timing gun. Generally its off by 1-2 degrees. Usually not a big deal on N/A cars but since this is F/I it does make a difference since we're using factory ecu. So I'm headed to my buddies shop tonight to use his SnapOn timing gun to set it exactly at 3degrees. One thing to note. I've been consistenly monitoring my AFR and the factory ECu is doing a good job. 14.7 at idle and 10-12's on FULL throttle. In other words, rich = good on full peddle. Lean = BOOM on full peddle.
- Thread starter
- #225
Been having trouble with my dual batt not charging for months now. It also consistently clicked on and off repeatedly.
I thought my rewire after the rebuild was wrong or my batt was dead or my isolator died. I threw it on the trickle charger and it took a charger fine. Only problem is when the isolator linked the 2 batts didn't actually link an charge my 2nd batt. When linked it evens out the voltage.
I took out my power probe and started diagnosing. Turned out the higher alt voltage wasnt making it from 1 lead from isolator to aux batt positive. I took out the aux cable positive wire. Batt side came off fine. As soon as i touched the isolator end it broke apart and disintegrated.
I usually use solid copper wire but I ran out when I put my system together. So I used some copper clad stuff i had laying around. Note to self. Never use that copper cladded crap ever again. It's as good as garbage.
I thought my rewire after the rebuild was wrong or my batt was dead or my isolator died. I threw it on the trickle charger and it took a charger fine. Only problem is when the isolator linked the 2 batts didn't actually link an charge my 2nd batt. When linked it evens out the voltage.
I took out my power probe and started diagnosing. Turned out the higher alt voltage wasnt making it from 1 lead from isolator to aux batt positive. I took out the aux cable positive wire. Batt side came off fine. As soon as i touched the isolator end it broke apart and disintegrated.
I usually use solid copper wire but I ran out when I put my system together. So I used some copper clad stuff i had laying around. Note to self. Never use that copper cladded crap ever again. It's as good as garbage.
Great! Now I must spend a bunch more money... because that looks really nice and I want it too
The center console looks incomplete without a "GO BABY GO" button
- Thread starter
- #228
The 2 empty spots will be placed with a "Missle Launch" and "Oil Slick" Button. Only fitting to finish the fighter cockpit off =)
That's what I'm talking about! Good choice. I always found that "Smoke Screen" was useless.
Mdej3
SILVER Star
I like this.
Whoa!...note to others, never use copper cladding no matter how much cheaper it is.
I like and use Quality Copper Battery Cables Made in the USA! - BatteryCablesUSA for bulk cable
- Thread starter
- #232
I use welding wire when I don't run out of it at least LOL.
Welding wire is cheaper and its 100% solid copper. It's a pain to bend and work with though.
Not to hijack a thread, but I’d be in for a Landtank WE CC relocation bracket!
I tried to order one of these but I think it's NLA now.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Still available
Had no luck with three sources and a few posts on MUD claimed it was NLA. Think I just got a good lead on one though, thanks!
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Since I have removed my Supercharger, I have a few extra steps to get the turbo installed. Before I put the throttle body back onto the intake, I want to make sure I get this vacuum line correct. In a SC setup, this port on the intake is blocked off. Would you mind looking at your vacuum plumbing to see if the T under the intake is running up to this intake port?
yep
