- Thread starter
- #61
Okay, that makes more sense, and will help me get rolling...thanks iaintscared!
Anyone else with good ideas on how else to wire this bugger up?
Spy Photos...FJ62
- Thread starter DirtyLittleSecret
- Start date
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Okay, that makes more sense, and will help me get rolling...thanks iaintscared!
Anyone else with good ideas on how else to wire this bugger up?
So your new harness has?
Ign 12v
Start 12V?
Fan circuit w/relay
A/C per request
Brake switch lead, This works backwards from your truck. You will need a painless dual brake switch.
Tach lead
VSS
Anything else?
Ign 12v
Start 12V?
Fan circuit w/relay
A/C per request
Brake switch lead, This works backwards from your truck. You will need a painless dual brake switch.
Tach lead
VSS
Anything else?
- Thread starter
- #63
LT1 wiring harness includes the following:
TCC Power (auto)-ground in P or Neutral
PNP Signal (auto)-12v when brake pedal not depressed
VSS out
Coolant temp
Tach
Oil Pressure
Ign Power (ign switched +)
Starter & Battery Power (to battery +)
SES Light (ign switched +)
Reverse Lights
A/C Request (ign switched +)
Two relays: Fuel Pump & Cooling Fan (to battery constant +)
It seems that there is a change in the FJ62 FSM's. 1988 is broken up into 3 books, while other FJ62's 1989+ are a single book. What's the deal on this? Is there a difference?
- Thread starter
- #64
Got something done today though...exhaust.
Nice and tight. The cross over looks like it hangs down, but its still higher than the crossmember, and the front driveline will have plenty of room for droop.
Nice and tight. The cross over looks like it hangs down, but its still higher than the crossmember, and the front driveline will have plenty of room for droop.
Nice Job on the exhaust. Looks good and tight. As for the difference on the manual not sure. I know the 89 ECU changed up but the wiring should be the same. Looks like most of the connections are pretty easy
TCC Power (auto) Use the ground at your old shifter
PNP Signal (auto)-Should be able to use your original brake switch
VSS out
Coolant temp
Tach
Oil Pressure
Ign Power (ign switched +)
Starter & Battery Power (to battery +) @ the starter
SES Light (ign switched +) At switch
Reverse Lights
A/C Request (ign switched +) Do not hook this direct to your stock connection. Use a relay or you pop fuses.
Two relays: Fuel Pump & Cooling Fan (to battery constant +)
Running stock Gauges?
TCC Power (auto) Use the ground at your old shifter
PNP Signal (auto)-Should be able to use your original brake switch
VSS out
Coolant temp
Tach
Oil Pressure
Ign Power (ign switched +)
Starter & Battery Power (to battery +) @ the starter
SES Light (ign switched +) At switch
Reverse Lights
A/C Request (ign switched +) Do not hook this direct to your stock connection. Use a relay or you pop fuses.
Two relays: Fuel Pump & Cooling Fan (to battery constant +)
Running stock Gauges?
- Thread starter
- #66
i was hoping to use the original gauges, and am now trying to find where to tap into the Toy gauges (wire-wise).
In the head there should be a block of bolt that can be tapped, The oil sender needs an adapter made for it to run 2 sensors. I had some machined for my conversions.
Note the fitting with a sensor at the rear. That dot is where I need to tap my Yota sensor in. You have to use the original sensors. The GM sensors will not work.
Note the fitting with a sensor at the rear. That dot is where I need to tap my Yota sensor in. You have to use the original sensors. The GM sensors will not work.
- Thread starter
- #68
Got new Toyota oil/water sensors already mounted up. Just trying to figure out the wiring...
Bloody windshield guys botched the install today, destroyed my windshield chrome as well as the new gasket, and put a scratch in my rig with thier belt buckle. Kicked them out of the shop, and demanded the manager. They're currently ordering new chrome, new gasket, and another new windshield. I honestly feel like making them fix it, and tell them to fly a kite.
Fortunately, the exhaust left tons of space for the AA driveline so no worries there!
If we could all just push Christmas back a week or so I'd be happy.
Bloody windshield guys botched the install today, destroyed my windshield chrome as well as the new gasket, and put a scratch in my rig with thier belt buckle. Kicked them out of the shop, and demanded the manager. They're currently ordering new chrome, new gasket, and another new windshield. I honestly feel like making them fix it, and tell them to fly a kite.
Fortunately, the exhaust left tons of space for the AA driveline so no worries there!
If we could all just push Christmas back a week or so I'd be happy.
X2 on the X-Mas thing. Sucks about the windshield. I would have been a little irrate! Those window guys are used to doing the newer cars. They cringe when the see an actual lockand seal window. Using the old connections. Looking good though can't wait to see the rest of your pics.
- Thread starter
- #70
After a good deal of research I've come to the realization that since I'm electrically retarded I need the ECU/wiring harness. Discussed wiring without the Toy ECU with a couple of the shops around here, and at my level its dubious at best. Found them today with sensors for $70, and will plan to get started this weekend.
If anybody has some visuals for connecting a GM wiring harness into the Toyota wiring harness I'd be gratefull to get this piggy rolling...
So, am I just powering up the Toy and GM ECU's, and "double" wiring them to the sensors?
Again, the GM harness has been reworked, and contains the following:
LT1 wiring harness includes the following:
TCC Power (auto)-ground in P or Neutral
PNP Signal (auto)-12v when brake pedal not depressed
VSS out
Coolant temp
Tach
Oil Pressure
Ign Power (ign switched +)
Starter & Battery Power (to battery +)
SES Light (ign switched +)
Reverse Lights
A/C Request (ign switched +)
Two relays: Fuel Pump & Cooling Fan (to battery constant +)
Sooner it becomes drivable, the sooner I can get on to some other write-ups.
If anybody has some visuals for connecting a GM wiring harness into the Toyota wiring harness I'd be gratefull to get this piggy rolling...
So, am I just powering up the Toy and GM ECU's, and "double" wiring them to the sensors?
Again, the GM harness has been reworked, and contains the following:
LT1 wiring harness includes the following:
TCC Power (auto)-ground in P or Neutral
PNP Signal (auto)-12v when brake pedal not depressed
VSS out
Coolant temp
Tach
Oil Pressure
Ign Power (ign switched +)
Starter & Battery Power (to battery +)
SES Light (ign switched +)
Reverse Lights
A/C Request (ign switched +)
Two relays: Fuel Pump & Cooling Fan (to battery constant +)
Sooner it becomes drivable, the sooner I can get on to some other write-ups.
- Thread starter
- #71
Cleaned/dissected/retaped the Toyota harness, and have figured out where on the main Toyota harness is the following:
Distributor, Ground, EGR sensor, O2 sensors (1&2), ISC valve, Air Flow Meter, Coolant Temp Sensor, Coolant Temp Switch, and the "Check" VF1.
Still trying to figure out just why I've got two sets of Cold Start Injector wires (Blk/Red, and Blu-Red)...one has a special clip on it, and the other has been cut.
Got two sending units confusing me. One larger with a red and a black wire (and a blue plug), and is stamped with 258-0. One smaller with two black wires (and a white plug), and stamped with 281-0.
EDIT: looks like the two sending units are transfer switches.
Now I'm confused as to where's my oil pressure gauge wire...
Tomorrow morning Santa's Fed-Ex elves are stopping by with a fat load for the road!
Distributor, Ground, EGR sensor, O2 sensors (1&2), ISC valve, Air Flow Meter, Coolant Temp Sensor, Coolant Temp Switch, and the "Check" VF1.
Still trying to figure out just why I've got two sets of Cold Start Injector wires (Blk/Red, and Blu-Red)...one has a special clip on it, and the other has been cut.
Got two sending units confusing me. One larger with a red and a black wire (and a blue plug), and is stamped with 258-0. One smaller with two black wires (and a white plug), and stamped with 281-0.
EDIT: looks like the two sending units are transfer switches.
Now I'm confused as to where's my oil pressure gauge wire...
Tomorrow morning Santa's Fed-Ex elves are stopping by with a fat load for the road!
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OK just for my info...Why do you need the Toy ECU and harness????? Please help me understand. I think you are going through a lot of pain that is not needed. Are you running downing a wiring Schematic? Save yourself a lot of time. Put the batt in the truck turn the key find 12v Ign on. Use your old starter wire to the new starter. Run the temp sender wire to the yota sensor, and run your old oil pressure wire to the yota sensor. That is on the P/S side with a single side terminal connection might even have the rubber cap that covers the sender. THIS is all you need!!!! STOP WITH THE HARNESS!! The 5.3 and the LS1 are in the same family and this is exactly how I ran mine. If you marked your wires when you pulled the engine it will be simple to find these. The harness from the tranny nuetral safety switch has the wires you need and the others are already supplied. You only need a Toy ECU if you plan on running the 3FE with the LS1. And yes all your gauges will work! SO LET'S SEE SOME PROGRESS
I am not commenting as to why Santa is running late at your side of the world!!
I am not commenting as to why Santa is running late at your side of the world!!
yea the opnly reason you need the vss hooked up it to talk to your computer... it isnt needed to run your spedo actually pretty much all of the sensors are only needed to talk to the ecu so the engine will run mo better.
all you really would need is soemthing to read oil pressure, coolant temp and voltage from the alt....
your thinking to much. dumb it down a little it will all be clear.
all you really would need is soemthing to read oil pressure, coolant temp and voltage from the alt....
your thinking to much. dumb it down a little it will all be clear.
uhm yeah what they said.... go Raiders?
- Thread starter
- #75
No electrical today...but it WILL happen on Monday (my New Years resolution it is).
Santa came though!
Had to cut it short today...our Nigerian neighbor's little boy got a basketball hoop for Christmas, but they dont have any tools (they're pretty hard up to begin with). Took three hours of Chinese text, but its finally put together right. Figured the little guy's been patient enough already (waiting 3 days for his only Christmas present)!
Santa came though!
Had to cut it short today...our Nigerian neighbor's little boy got a basketball hoop for Christmas, but they dont have any tools (they're pretty hard up to begin with). Took three hours of Chinese text, but its finally put together right. Figured the little guy's been patient enough already (waiting 3 days for his only Christmas present)!
- Thread starter
- #76
Okay gang, so I got some time today to polish up some odds n' ends. Figured out what my problem was in figuring out the harness...evidently I "tucked" the plug into the deepest depths of Cruiser black holes which took me about 2 hours of rooting to actually find it...gad I felt like an idiot
. So, now I'm back on track (thanks guys!) with a correct FSM coming any day now. I'm committed to this rig as a long-term relationship.
Oh, and found out today that the tranny had been rebuilt just 20k miles ago.
Mounted the ECU in, and hooked up the battery...POWER! headlights work, and a few other lights are merrily on!
Got the intake taken care of, filled the motor, x-case, radiator, breather lines, etc done. Ordered a new Autometer tach 0-6k, and decided on the Lokar throttle cable.
So, I will plan on Thursday to start actually splicing what I can figure out.
Q's: Does anybody know what color the 3A alternator wire is? And, I'm trying to figure out what ign switch wires are supposed to go to the starter? (or at least what were the original wires that went to the starter?) I guess there was supposed to be a purple wire, but dont see one.
I assume that the FJ62 fuel pump is adequate for the LT1 (lower pressure as I understand it). I also assume that I will simply be taking the wires directly from the GM harness, and connecting them/splicing/locking them with the same appropriate wires (that I can find) in the Toyota harness. Seems simple, but am just incredibly apprehensive to toast something!
More Cruiser Porn:
Happy New Year!
. So, now I'm back on track (thanks guys!) with a correct FSM coming any day now. I'm committed to this rig as a long-term relationship. Oh, and found out today that the tranny had been rebuilt just 20k miles ago.Mounted the ECU in, and hooked up the battery...POWER! headlights work, and a few other lights are merrily on!
Got the intake taken care of, filled the motor, x-case, radiator, breather lines, etc done. Ordered a new Autometer tach 0-6k, and decided on the Lokar throttle cable.
So, I will plan on Thursday to start actually splicing what I can figure out.
Q's: Does anybody know what color the 3A alternator wire is? And, I'm trying to figure out what ign switch wires are supposed to go to the starter? (or at least what were the original wires that went to the starter?) I guess there was supposed to be a purple wire, but dont see one.
I assume that the FJ62 fuel pump is adequate for the LT1 (lower pressure as I understand it). I also assume that I will simply be taking the wires directly from the GM harness, and connecting them/splicing/locking them with the same appropriate wires (that I can find) in the Toyota harness. Seems simple, but am just incredibly apprehensive to toast something!
More Cruiser Porn:
Happy New Year!
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- Thread starter
- #77
Finally got it to fire up today, but nobody'd be interested in that...BTW: anybody have a photo of the fuel pump relay? I'm bypassing it for now, but would like to get it done right.
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WAY TO GO!!!!
These are my relays. I have 2 for the fuel pump and one for the fan. One relay is for my 5 sec. @ startup and the other is for constant duty. What is up with your relay?? I know you are going to use the 62 pump. I think it was under the pass. side kick panel.
These are my relays. I have 2 for the fuel pump and one for the fan. One relay is for my 5 sec. @ startup and the other is for constant duty. What is up with your relay?? I know you are going to use the 62 pump. I think it was under the pass. side kick panel.
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- Thread starter
- #80
WAY TO GO!!!!
These are my relays. I have 2 for the fuel pump and one for the fan. One relay is for my 5 sec. @ startup and the other is for constant duty. What is up with your relay?? I know you are going to use the 62 pump. I think it was under the pass. side kick panel.
I was just having a difficult time figuring out which is the right relay under there...there's 4 of em. I'll be getting back to it this afternoon, but have a new relay just like the ones you've got there, and am thinking a backup relay would be a good idea. If the 62 pump isnt enough (it ought to be though) I'll go external in-line.
Unfortunately I forgot that my headlight switch doesnt work (high beams work great, but the low beams are dead, and I dont have instrument-gauge lighting). Once its up and running I'll start working on cleaning it up some more. I'm amazed at how much cutting of wires its been. Maybe the new RallyLights harness will solve some problems, but my gut tells me its the column switch. Happened when I put in a new alternator on the 3fe that had a bad regulator, and "popped" something immediately after installation.
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