Builds Splurge Overkill - FJ60 build (1 Viewer)

[isbj60]

Some thoughts on hood modifications.

Cut line:


Where the hood would blend back into the base if I lift and extend the stock angle:


Front angle extension:

 

[isbj60]

Rear angle extension:


More pondering to do....

 

[isbj60]

Just a quick comparison pic between a NP205 and an NV271/3, in case anyone wants to get a visual for their own project. The NP205 is for sale BTW... ;p

 

[isbj60]

Got a 1710 ujoint to play with. That is what the yoke on the transmission is. I am hoping to bore and broach. The center of he ujoint to 34 spline and use a short chunk of splined shaft to couple the transfer case to it. Pictures:
















I don't know what the material of the ujoint is, and there won't be a lot left after a 1.5" hole is bored in the center. I will try to contact spicer for material information, as that will be key.

 

[spotcruiser]

Where's the updates, Kev? You need to use some of the upcoming furlough days to make some progress.

 

[isbj60]

Well, I've been trying to get some side projects taken care of that stand in the way of progress. And none of it is technically applicable to this build (tooling rebuilds), so I haven't posted that stuff here. I did buy an output shaft from a 5r110 automatic to rob the spline section off of for the transfer case adapter. I will post up some pics when I get home. The unseen saga so far:

1 - the dynasty 200dx welder I was borrowing from a friend never quite worked right. I managed to get it to stick the parts together for the rear spring brake can, but it would keep throwing error codes. I am the only one to ever use it. It was purchased in 2008 and sat in the box until I asked to use it. So I sent it in to get checked out and it turns out two of the motherboards were damaged in shipping. Quote came out to $1800! Needless to say, my friend worked some magic and Miller will cover the parts! I ended up with a distaste for the newer welders and...

2 - I horse-traded a shotgun I never use for a pistol AND a synchrowave 350 welder! The welder was inoperative, but 1989 technology is all analog, and with the help of a gifted coworker I might have fixed it for a grand total of $0.53. Works for gmaw, but I don't have a torch adapter yet, so I haven't checked it out for gtaw. Cost me a bit to wire it up (draws 130 amps of 240vac at 385 amps output), but I was able to use a disconnect switch I bought for the shop and then was not able to use. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles of the newer welders, and I have some other stuff to buy for it, but the price was right! Once this thing is running, I am making some proper jackstands (thanks Todd...), then it is bodywork time!

3 - I got a great deal on a 10x16 horizontal band saw a while ago, but like all good deals it needed some work. Well, I am currently cleaning it up piece by piece now. I have workarounds for it as far as fabrication goes, but the time it will save in the long run will make up for the time drain now. In the process of the rebuild, I flopped the base on my foot and broke a metatarsal. More delays ensued. Hopefully I can make some more significant progress on that front this weekend. I r smart!

4 - my drill press is currently 3 phase, and my intention was to put a vfc drive on it to do the adaptation from single phase and also to get more than the 8 speeds it currently has. Well, for significantly less money I can get a rotary phase converter control panel and use the motor I pulled off of my Craigslist compressor to power the drill up. After the band saw and welder, that is next. Once that is done, the adapter for the t-case will follow. Sequences!

I should probably quit buying stuff off of Craigslist...

And the furlough isn't going to help this build.

And excuses are like arseholes. Everyone has one, and they usually stink!

Pics forthcoming when I get home.

 

[isbj60]

For the adapter, I bought an output shaft from a 5r110 automatic transmission. This was the 5 speed that was found in front of the NV271/273 in Ford superduties. I thought this would be a quick way to get the short chunk of splined shaft I need. It took a while to find someone selling one, and that had good pictures. It looked like it had enough spline length, so I bit. Here is what one looks like.

The spline length turns out to be just over 4.5"

With the shaft fully buried in the NV273 input gear, about 1-3/4" of splines are left

 

[isbj60]

I tried to cut the shaft with the portaband. Got this far before I dulled the blade.

I need that larger bandsaw with the coolant system. I can get diamond blades for it...
What I am dealing with for material excess on the u-joint cross. About 3/8" on either side of the shaft. Will it be enough? Don't know. The cross is case hardened steel, but it is not an exotic alloy.

 

[isbj60]

A fun comparison picture, since I always appreciate those in other threads. 34 spline input shaft VS stock landcruiser outers.

And one of my diversions.

My really expensive disconnect that the county said I needed for my shop and then told me I couldn't use as a disconnect for the service because it does not have fuses...

At least I got to use it for something...

 

[spotcruiser]

It's actually the state L&I guy, correct? I know, I've dealt with them before. Dealing with them is like dealing with NCC.

My really expensive disconnect that the county said I needed for my shop and then told me I couldn't use as a disconnect for the service because it does not have fuses...

 

[isbj60]

It's actually the state L&I guy, correct? I know, I've dealt with them before. Dealing with them is like dealing with NCC.

You are correct. They first said I needed to group my disconnects, but mentioned nothing about the overcurrent protection. So I got the disconnect and installed it. Then they came by and said my overcurrent protection must be installed near the disconnect. I won't repeat what I said...

Having the 320 amp service split to two separate distribution systems, a 200 amp machine tool service and a 100 amp hotel load service, rocks. But it wasn't cheap or without headache on the install. It is very nice to be able to throw the disconnect on the 200 amp panel and work in it with the lights on. Just ask Travis!

On a build related note, I am headed to a steel supplier this weekend to look over the random junk stuff they have lying around. Hopefully I can find some stuff to build jack stands out of for not too much money. Whatever design I settle on, I'd like it to have the following features:
-Screw-adjustable top
-replaceable top pad, so I can tack weld it to the body/frame for extra insurance.
-beefy.

I'll probably make a few dollies to go under them, too, so rolling the back half of the body out of the way to bring in the new section will be easier.

I welcome the thoughts you all have on jackstands. What works, what doesn't.

 

[isbj60]

I took the time to model up the u-joint. There will be about 1/2" of material left at the thinnest point. I guess there is only one way to find out if it will work... Anybody know of a good shop for wire EDM near seattle?

 

[Pacer]

I took the time to model up the u-joint. There will be about 1/2" of material left at the thinnest point. I guess there is only one way to find out if it will work... Anybody know of a good shop for wire EDM near

I like the solution you're developing here, but it dose look like it could be a week spot.
Is there an OEM who makes a joint similar in design to this? I've never seen it done before.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Half inch is still a bit of material, but I don't like the fact that you will be using a greaseable joint. Those holes seem like they would be right at some of the highest stressed areas of the joint in the configuration you will have.

Did you run any analysis on the model?

 

[Senor Aguas]

I bet that took a while to model. Send me a stp file (or NX prt file) and I'd be happy to run a quick FEA if you don't have the resources. I'd need to know the torque to put on it... Cool build by the way.

 

[isbj60]

I like the solution you're developing here, but it dose look like it could be a week spot.
Is there an OEM who makes a joint similar in design to this? I've never seen it done before.

I haven't found anything. There is probably good reason... My biggest fear is that the u-joint breaks and takes out the output yoke. It is now an obsolete part. I can find other 2.75-10 spline yokes at Northern Drivetrain, but the hub sizes are different. I guess I could always adapt one... But they are $200+.

Half inch is still a bit of material, but I don't like the fact that you will be using a greaseable joint. Those holes seem like they would be right at some of the highest stressed areas of the joint in the configuration you will have.

Did you run any analysis on the model?

I agree completely. I haven't found a non-greasable spicer 5-675X joint yet. I would be all over it if I did, since I really don't need the greasability.

I am trying to use FEMAP express which comes loaded with Solidedge, but I don't know if it will do something this complex. We will see. The computer has been chugging for about a half hour now...

I bet that took a while to model. Send me a stp file (or NX prt file) and I'd be happy to run a quick FEA if you don't have the resources. I'd need to know the torque to put on it... Cool build by the way.

Thanks! It did take some time. I would love it if you could run a model for me. That is quite generous! I figure the maximum input torque of the NV273 is 7800 ft-lb, so that would be a good load to use. Maximum theoretical output from the trans is more like 31,300 ft-lb, but that's not really obtainable. Nor could anything withstand it anyway. I'll PM you to get your e-mail address.



My other options are to rework the adapter to clear a 1810 series yoke (the only yoke currently available for this transmission), since the cross on an 1810 is much bigger.
Or I could go with a 1810 companion flange, but I would have to figure out what is different hub-wise between it and the yoke on the trans currently since a companion flange was never offered for this transmission. And the CF is $$$. And then make a bolt on adapter shaft.
Or I can have the output shaft of the transmission EDM'd for the 34 spline shaft and skip the middleman. Trying to avoid modding the transmission too much, though... This option is appealing since it would be more "permanent" than a modified u-joint, and the overall drivetrain length can be shortened slightly. But heaven help me if the t-case adapter isn't perfectly concentric to the transmssion output!

 

[Senor Aguas]

Maybe you could put a drivetrain "fuse" in this thing. Something easy to replace that will fail before something important/expensive/hard to replace fails.

 

[isbj60]

Maybe you could put a drivetrain "fuse" in this thing. Something easy to replace that will fail before something important/expensive/hard to replace fails.

Like the shear pin just before the flywheel on a hay baler... There's a thought! A hardened joint in the driveline with a shear pin in it. Of course, my uncle got tired of constantly replacing them, so eventually he used a grade 8 bolt... I could see myself doing something like that.

 

[Senor Aguas]

FEA

Here's FEA at 7800 ft lbs. Von-Mises stress, averaged at nodes. Its pretty high, but your load may be too high too. Ignore the stress at the constraint/loading points (that red line and the splines). I'm pretty sure if you half the load, the stress will half. I need to confirm that, but that's typically the relationship I see at work when going up or down by 10%.

If you want to see something else (shear, etc), let me know. I can't tell you a lot more--I'm not really an FEA engineer, but I do use it at work to tweak my designs before sending them to the dedicated FEA department.

You mentioned it was case hardened. You'll be cutting splines into the soft gooey center. I wonder if the splines can handle it? Or should you find a way to case harden it again?

Good luck!

 

[isbj60]

Mmm. Soft gooey center...


Thanks! Those numbers definitely tell me the idea is feasible. I will have to anneal it and re-heat treat. I might be able to con the NDT folks at work to give me a material type reading on it. I should be able to get 90,000psi ultimate, which would give me infinite life at 45,000 psi or so. That's not too bad. 7800 ft-lb is worst case, for sure. I doubt it will see half that very frequently.