Split case rebuild

[Trollhole]

Wow Hugh! for a guy that pulled bearings out of his T-case that looked like this
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188950&d=1195353510
that really is a vote of no-confidence...
I really enjoyed and appreciated reading through your rebuild thread, and will no doubt be going back to it again as mine proceeds.
And yeah, I do plan on replacing these parts when I put it back together... just gotta find a good canditate for parts.

Trollhole,
the idler shaft and the needle bearings looked fine to me- as does everything else in the case (except one other bearing that was a bit rusty from a bad seal http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t304/hansp77/BJ42 Transfer case/DSC00114.jpg)

someone on another forum has a 4 speed and t-case sitting in their garage from a FJ45, left over after he swapped a 5 speed into it (no noise- one slight leak)- but his description that it "still even has the whole handbrake setup on it" leads me to think that it is not a split case? would that be correct?

here is the album of all the shots I took pulling it apart (and will add to as the rebuild progresses) for anyone who wants to look through. It's pretty boring- I am just trying to document where everything came from.

now that it is all cleaned, organised and sitting in a box beside me- if anyone wants any other photos of specific parts for diagnosis, just let me know.

Thanks all.
Hans.

Get a picture of it.

Yeah I think if you got the whole output assembly you would be set. But by then another used case would probably be just as easy.

Bummed as I just sold a split case for 25 dollars. I'd had shipped just the parts you need for shipping cost only. I try to spread the cruiser karma around. Maybe next time I'll have a part for ya.

Have you checked the output bearing races. Usually when the bearing get hot they heat the races and cause them to expand and if they really get hot they can spin in the housings screwing them up. They can also stretch the aluminum around them causing issues down the road. Might check that they don't come out easily when you replace them. They should be snug.

Rebuild kit will have new idler shaft and bearings so you should be good. I'm surprised it wasn't the first thing to go.

 

[beejay42]

Thanks for the thought Trollhole,
for that alone I think you score a bit more cruiser good karma

When you say 'get a picture of it' what do you mean- anything in particular, or just a general catalogue of the parts?

in general, absolutely nothing else has stood out- the output shaft (and some of its parts) appears the only thing with wear or damage.
I had a very close look over the casing today and there appears to be no cracks, no spun bearings, etc.
Aside from the output shaft most of the seals weren't too bad... the one between the T-case and tranny was fine.

one thing I noticed earlier has got me thinking- the bearing that blew out is different to the one provided to replace it-
the blown out one has the number 30307JA
the replacement is 30307JR-4

both KOYO, both 'HI-CAP'.

the condition of the majority of the seals, the O-rings and other bearings leads to my wild guess that this wasn't rebuilt (partially) all that long ago. The gaskets were oldish and had been siliconed (re-used?). I wonder if it is possible that a wrong bearing was used as a replacement?

Anyway, I suppose it doesn't really matter. What is toast is toast and must be replaced.

Now that I have pulled it all apart, I realise the truth of what was said to me, that to rebuild the thing is about the same amount of work as simply swapping one- I've still got to split the thing to bolt it to the tranny- still got to press on the gears and bearing to the tranny output shaft (under the truck), etc... might as well rebuild the lot while I'm at it.
Either way, if/when I find a donor T-case I would be picking and choosing between all the parts to come up with the best of each and putting it into my cleaned and painted case.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Wow Hugh! for a guy that pulled bearings out of his T-case that looked like this
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188950&d=1195353510
that really is a vote of no-confidence...
I really enjoyed and appreciated reading through your rebuild thread, and will no doubt be going back to it again as mine proceeds.
And yeah, I do plan on replacing these parts when I put it back together... just gotta find a good canditate for parts.

As you can see, I replaced a lot. Rear output shaft was replaced with the parking brake kit and that was what was most seriously damaged in mine. I had bearing races cooked to it. But IMO everything can be fixed. LDowney tried to talk me into re-gearing the whole thing with the SOR gear set but it was too much for me to spend on this. Really, yours appears to be in much better shape then mine especially because mine had been out in the weather at some point. Since most of the good rebuild kits have about all you need except your output shaft and that large gear, with those you should be good. I also replaced the needle bearings IIR I had to buy those separately.

 

[beejay42]

FINISHED.
Sorry for no progress shots, but I just had to get it done.

Ended up swapping a lot of parts, almost everything internal (all gears except for my PTO gear, front and rear output shafts) from the donor case- plus of course all new bearings and seals and idler shaft.

Bearing preload was a bugger, I ended up having to use all three shims I had (two from my case, one from the donor) to get up to a respectable load- got up to 17 in.lb- range for new bearing is 13-21.4 in.lb). And, to get there i had to do away with the cardboard gasket for the bearing retainer and just use that silicon gasket maker stuff (squeezed out- hopefully it doesn't leak).

All round it was the carboard type gaskets- and strangely the the kit came with a range of different oil seals, half of them not needed (must be providing for different cases??). I used threadlock blue silocon gasket maker on all the gaskets, and medium strength threadlocker for every bolt.

Took it for a test drive this afternoon- and....... SWEET! (so far!)

No noise, no vibration, smooth and solid shifting throughout high, low, 2, 4... I'm pretty happy.
Oh yeah, and on the test drive I grabbed a case of beer. Drinking a fair pile of them is my next task for what remains of the weekend. Cheers.

 

[brisveganbj42]

well done hans.. good to see it all worked out for you and you got it done.. thats one big piece of cruiser knowledge i dont have up my sleeve yet.. good on ya for having a go yerself and coming out on top!

now.. time to start using that stubby lever and get out there!!!!

 

[beejay42]

Cheers Andy,
and yep- it's time to go get it dirty again. Summers coming and I hope to be spending a bit of time down the coast- lots of exploring up behind the great ocean road to do.

all up- in retrospect- and taking my sweet time to ponder over it- it wasn't all that hard at all. If I can do it- anyone can... seriously.
Taking pictures at every moment I took something off or apart was invaluable- as was reading through other threads like Hugh's.
Other than that it is just a metal puzzel that wants to go back together

I did everything myself without the use of a press or any pullers- a bit tricky but not that hard to figure out- lots of gentle prying, lots of work with plastic, copper, wood and (wood or copper padded) big farkin steel hammers- plus a work bench and woodworking vice.
Had to buy a decent torque wrench, and a big 36mm socket for the nut on the tranny output shaft, and scored an awesome old simple spring gauge type 'tension wrench' from the local trash and treasure to do my preload testing- but not much else was required.

Definitely a job I would recommend doing oneself- hell I don't even have a garage

(but really, I should wait and see how it goes)