Speedhut Gauges in your 60... wow! Best money spent!

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Adds 200 horsepower too!

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(Pic from @Custer’s new LS swap)

(Holler at me if you’d like a set, I’m dealer)
 
Adds 200 horsepower too!

View attachment 1791885

(Pic from @Custer’s new LS swap)

(Holler at me if you’d like a set, I’m dealer)

Since I have an LS swap, but am running factory gauges ... Will this be plug and play? Or, will it require some wiring?
 
Since I have an LS swap, but am running factory gauges ... Will this be plug and play? Or, will it require some wiring?

It definitely requires some wiring. Like most things swap-related it was pretty intimidating right up til it was working... then it seemed simple.

You need to pull in full time power, ignition power, and run the wires from the senders to the interior (the old speedometer cable grommet hole is a convenient place for this.) I used adapters for the oil pressure and temp. (The temp sender is fragile, buy a spare or two in case you break one.)

I had to drop the trans pan to weld in the trans temp bung. I thought I was going to be able to thread it into the 4L60E pressure port, but the sender probe was too long. Afterwards, I did see in the instructions that you can trim the sender, but I’m still not sure there was enough room (or if that is a good place). Or you could figure out a way to put it in the line leaving the transmission.

Then you’ll need to find the wires in the dash plugs for the high beams, the fuel level sender, (we used the Toyota turn signals instead of the gauge signals), and the dash light signal (I pulled this from the factory dimmer). You’ll also need the tach signal from your GM harness.

I labeled them on both sides of the connection (used bullet connectors) just so I could keep track of them.

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I’m sure I’m forgetting something, but once you get it all hooked up, you need to calibrate the fuel gauge. I pulled the sender from the tank and manually put it in the full & empty position.

Last you can set the low fuel warning level and volt/temp/pressure/rpm high/low warning lights as desired.

Then you’re done!
 
Pro tip:

4 Plus has some cool brackets to mount the 4-1/2” & 2-1/6” gauges into the factory 60 cluster.

Anybody know what the back of a 62 cluster looks like?

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@FJ60Cam thanks for the pictures of the back of the panel. For the center it looks like it could be trimmed for a longer diameter gauge so I can add a EGT and Boost gauge.
 
Pretty funny to think that needle wouldn't ever see the top half of the MPH in a 60. :rofl:
My 2F with its H55h can do 80 with a slightl down hill angle and a tail wind. She moves right along and I should mentions that she weighs 6500# and carrying a RTT.

I might need to upgrade to those gauges. Pretty sweet.
 
That’s a great quote. I live my life by many mantras.

Two is one, one is none

Buy once, cry once.

“You can judge a man’s character by the decisions he make under pressure.” Ben Franklin.
 
:lol: My speedhut gauges just got here today.
Let us know how easy/ Difficult it was to install. I have no real wiring experience. I can change a light bulb and wire an electrical socket. But that’s about it.
 
I think I’d still like the RPM to be situated in the center smaller hole.
 
I think I’d still like the RPM to be situated in the center smaller hole.

If you’re still running the 2F, there’s no reason not too.

The only reason to change the center is if you needed to add trans temp, boost, EGT, or a clock. In that case, you could add the tach to the speedo.
 

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