Spark Plug Wire Question (1 Viewer)

[Finally Mine]

I have a 78FJ 40, and have been working on it since Oct of 07. I just ordered some OEM spark plug wires for it and they came in today. The cruiser has been starting fine ever since I cleaned all the grounding wires. I am finding that the more I get into this thing the more I need to come to the site for answers to my questions. On the distributor cap there are numbers 1-6. The wires from the distributor cap to the spark plug are connected to the spark plugs in the following order (starting from the firewall to the radiator) 6-2-4-3-1-5 Is this the correct placement of the wires from the distributor to the spark plugs? The other reason I ask is because the new spark plug wires are numbered and if I follow the order as above from the distributor cap to the spark plugs two of the wire lengths are to short to reach. I used the wires but just put them on to accomodate the different lengths. Hope I not insulting your intelligence guys.

Thanks Steve

 

[Poser]

Firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4


Does the engine run?


As long as the wire fits and is working, it really does not matter what position it is located on the distributor...

 

[Finally Mine]

Steve, the engine does run. I'm just getting confused now. I found the engine firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 on an AutoZone website. According to their schematic the number one position on the distributor cap is connected to the number one spark plug near the radiator then the wires are connected in sequence back to the firewall. If this is correct then my connections from the PO are wrong. Number one and five wire connections are backwards, the rest are correct.

 

[Finally Mine]

Steve, maybe this is what is causing the knocking sound that I hear now and then that I told you about.

 

[e rock]

The numbers on the cap aren't critical. The distributor could be rotated 60*, and the wires would then be one spot off all the way around.

What IS critical is the order. From what I could decipher, yours is definitely not right. Cylinder #1 is at the front, near the radiator.


Do you have a timing light?

 

[Finally Mine]

I saw from the schematic that number 1 was near the radiator. I don't have a timing light, but by tomorrow afternoon I will. When I get home from work in the morning I will put the spark plug wires in the correct order and see what happens. I can only assume that I will be surprised by a smoother running engine.

 

[40's rock]

x2 on the out of order....I installed an new HEI and according to timing marks and FSM, my old toyota dist was whacked...set it to the ball on the flywheel, rotor will be pointing at what should be #1...install the others based on firing order around the dist....

 

[e rock]

I will put the spark plug wires in the correct order and see what happens. I can only assume that I will be surprised by a smoother running engine.

That's why I asked about the timing light. If I read the first post right, you had 3 out of order - translated to the correct orientation, yours would be 1-5-3-4-6-2 instead of 1-5-3-6-2-4. If you just unplug everything and hook it up the right way, there is a chance that the timing will be so far off that it won't start at all.

 

[DSRTRDR]

to think that Toyota had the wisdom of embossing the numbers on the dizzy cap......

 

[Finally Mine]

Eric, on the distributor cap there are numbers 1-6, if I numbered the plugs 1-6 on my engine starting at the radiator my number 1 on the distributor cap is connected to the number 5 spark plug. 2 to 2, 3 to 3, 4 to 4, 5 to the number 1 plug, and 6 to 6.

So what do you think would happen if I put 1 and 5 in the correct sequence of numbers? I'm still going to get the timing light tomorrow.

 

[e rock]

Eric, on the distributor cap there are numbers 1-6, if I numbered the plugs 1-6 on my engine starting at the radiator my number 1 on the distributor cap is connected to the number 5 spark plug. 2 to 2, 3 to 3, 4 to 4, 5 to the number 1 plug, and 6 to 6.

So what do you think would happen if I put 1 and 5 in the correct sequence of numbers? I'm still going to get the timing light tomorrow.

Man now I'm confused. Actually, I think I finally understand now what you're saying, but it's totally different than what I thought I understood before. Nevermind


So... All of your wires are correct, except the #1 and #5 (which are right next to one another) are reversed? That makes a lot more sense. Yes - swap them back to the correct labeled positions.

The timing light is less critical now IMO, but still probably a good idea since you're in there.

 

[Finally Mine]

Sorry for the confusion Eric, I tried to copy a diagram but I couldn't get it to post in the message. Anyways I will swap out the wires tomorrow after getting a few hours sleep and see what happens.
Thanks again for being patient.

 

[bsevans]

153624
#1 on the distributor is located at 11 o'clock looking from the fender. Hook the wires to the spark plug following the numbers on the distributor, 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 and so on. The front piston is #1 and the back is #6. You need to rotate the engine until the top dead center mark (TDC) is on the fixed mark. The ball bearing is not TDC. The TDC is a straight grove in the flywheel. At TDC the rotor should be in the 11 o'clock position. If it is 180 degrees from that you set it at TDC on the #6 piston. If the TDC for the #1 piston does not locate the rotor at 11 o'clock then that would most likely be the cause of the numbered wires not being the right length. At #1 TDC you can loosen the distributor hold down plate and pull the distributor up far enough to rotate the rotor enough to put it in the right location. You will need to make sure that the distributor shaft engages the oil pump. You might need to use a flat blade screw driver to slightly rotate the oil pump slot. It may sound difficult but it isn't. If you decide to do this, just take your time. At this point you can use your timing light to advance the timing to the ball bearing on the flywheel. I believe on a '78 that you want to pull the vacuum lines and plug them to set the idle timing. Make sure you hook the vacuum lines back up the way they were. You should get a copy of the emission manual to make sure your vacuum lines are hooked to the correct ports. You may need to pull the valve cover to confirm that you are at TDC on the #1 piston (both the intake and exhaust rockers will be up and not in contact with the valve stems.)

 

[Finally Mine]

Thanks for the information. Switched the number 1 and 5 wires today. Engine already runs better, and I don't have the knocking sound that I would hear now and then.

Steve

 

[jimhendrixx]

Nice, real nice!