Spare Tire Mod ... Pics (1 Viewer)

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a tip on the "seam". I took some small diameter rubber vacuum line and cut it down the middle and used silicone and attached it to the seam to protect the sidewall. worked great. here's a pic.

NICE, that was quick... Glad I could lend some advice. :cheers:
 
This old thread reminds me to let you guys know that I did a little damage to my sidewalls from the tire being extra high and rubbing on the 1" seam on the underside (See 1st pic top left corner). Maybe some black plastic to protect door edges from dings and chips would work here to protect your sidewalls? I now have a rear bumper carrier but just thought I would let you guys know what I noticed on my Coopers.


I started to do the this mod then noticed the tire was hitting that seam. I didn't think about hurting the tire, but I was worried about rubbing that seam down to the bare metal and causing rust. Might be something to keep an eye on.

aaron
 
I used pieces of conduit for this and they have held up very well, and no rust to speak of in over a year
 
I started to do the this mod then noticed the tire was hitting that seam. I didn't think about hurting the tire, but I was worried about rubbing that seam down to the bare metal and causing rust. Might be something to keep an eye on.

aaron

Just did this this weekend solved both issues cleanly - 1/2 in. clamp rubber molding:
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I found an UNREAL playground of an industrial supply hardware store in Las Vegas:
Mc Fadden-Dale Industrial Hardware
5580 S Decatur Blvd # 114,
Las Vegas, NV 89118
(702) 251-8059

These guys had the Grade 8 super fine bolts for the bumper for my bolt on tire swingout project, they had the clamps, they had the gasket material... They even had reverse thread 5/8" lugnuts for my 1953 M101 trailer - in stock. I had gone to 5 other places in Vegas before finding them, and they had everything.
 
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Cross member bolts were ... 8x1.25mm and 70mm long

Hand Crank bolts were ... 8x1.25mm and 30mm long

Heads on the bolts I used were 13mm instead of 12mm

I would use 40mm next time on the hand crank bolts ... I had to shave off a little of the spacers to get the 30mm to work.

Was looking at these bolts in 70mm length are these what I should be getting for correct size? How many do I need? Have no idea the difference between a 13mm head and a 12mm head. Assume it is the size of wrench I need to work with. Guess these are 10.9 which is weird sizing, as does that make them 11mm wrench? Any help understanding bolt sizes is appreciated.


Chrome Bolts, Stainless Steel Bolts, Metric Bolts, Socket Head Cap Screws, Grade 8 Bolts, F911 Bolts
 
Was looking at these bolts in 70mm length are these what I should be getting for correct size? How many do I need? Have no idea the difference between a 13mm head and a 12mm head. Assume it is the size of wrench I need to work with. Guess these are 10.9 which is weird sizing, as does that make them 11mm wrench? Any help understanding bolt sizes is appreciated.


Chrome Bolts, Stainless Steel Bolts, Metric Bolts, Socket Head Cap Screws, Grade 8 Bolts, F911 Bolts

-6x the 70mm bolts (head size is up to you, does not matter if the thread is correct, it is just the wrench size. Cruiser tends to use 12mm, but lots of aftermarket bolts are 13mm head size)
-4x the 40mm bolts (with 1" spacers for the winch, the 30mm will be too short. i used 40 and it left about 3 or 5mm left, which is acceptable.
10.9 is the grade or strength of the bolt - the best, does not get any stronger. Grade 8 is fine, grade 10 is better.
 
I know I am late to the game here but as a new owner of a 94 fzj80 (300,000 miles) I feel a rookie and want to write something. I did this mod last night...it worked great and I feel like a hero.:)
 
Do you raise the whole bracket the same amount or is the rear brought up higher because the spare hangs low towards the axle.
 
it has been written up as raising the whole bracket the same amount - I don't know what anyone has tried to alter the angle and you many run into trouble doing so, due to the angle required for the winch bar to get the tire up and down.
 
Pulled out crossmember, addressed some minor rust, lubed lift mechanism, reinstalled.

About $30 in galvanized nipples and bolts; plus paint.
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And you get this - 33" is max tire though.
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spartan said:
And you get this - 33" is max tire though.

Not true, I fit my 315/75/16 BFG KM2 (34.4") tire under there with the spare tire lift kit. No trailer hitch though. And about 1/4" clearance to the panhard bar
 
My guess is 2", he used 2" long nipples.
I read an earlier thread also raising up 2", so I did that, and that was cool, but I just came across this video http://www.4x4tv.tv/Project-80-4.html which shows how to get 5" of lift, so, I'm picking up (10) 8 x 1.25 x 150mm bolts tomorrow, to re-do the mod, and stuff that puppy waaaay up in there.:bounce:
Bluetribal, thanks for the heads-up on the sidewall wear from the 1" lip...I'll weather strip that.

Good call on the spray bedliner...I might do that, after I raise the spare 5".:clap:
 
Not true, I fit my 315/75/16 BFG KM2 (34.4") tire under there with the spare tire lift kit. No trailer hitch though. And about 1/4" clearance to the panhard bar

If you don't have any kind of tow hitch and you get that close to the panhard bar I see it being done. I have 1" plus clearance on the panhard and " no touch " on the hitch.

Great place for the spare - I can't stand bumper mounts. Look cool and good for severe off roading, but in the way all the time for rear storage.

Glad you got yours to fit. Great product.
 
My trailer hitch is bolted to the pintle mount. I just looked at it again yesterday, it's more like 1/2" clearance to the bar. So don't worry about tire size until you step up to 37s haha.

One day I will have a swingout tire carrier, as the spare drags all the time when 'wheeling. To the point that I take it and throw it in the cargo area. That will have to change when I get a fridge.
 

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