Spare Tire Lift???

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I think TANK had the right idea with the cast iron pipe...kinda like one of those DIY body lift kits. Stick a fat washer up on top and run the bolt through.
 
I think stainless hardear and some aluminum sleeving would be ideal and solve the rust issue. otherwise mount it where you want and douse it in undercoating. just make sure you like it there prior to shooting as your threads will be shot.
Dave
 
Can't you just use galvanized bolts and nuts to stop the rust problem? Or is it zinc coated?

Jared
 
I've done that mod. Drug the spare tire pretty hard last night doing some light after work wheeling. The longer bolts and nuts I'm using for spacers held up well.
 
Sorry, this is the 1st time I read the thread. Dont know where my pics are. But I think I used 3 or 4 nuts(3/4"?) on each, raised it up as high as I could before I couldn't use the hand crank to get the tire down.

John H

[quote author=Junk link=board=2;threadid=1921;start=msg129604#msg129604 date=1080677861]
Hey Pimp,

How about adding a pic or two of your mod so this can be added to the FAQ's? I'm putting you to work dude :D
[/quote]
 
Does the spare tire crank suck for everyone?

I did this mod in the first few months of ownership and had never lowered the spare much beforehand (probably only once ;)) ..... but I find the crank thing really sucks. As I think ahead to running 2 sets of tires, I cringe everytime I think about changing the spare. The 4 wheels are easy compared to the spare :rolleyes:

Any suggestions to getting the crank held in place?

Riley
 
I used 2 1/2 inch x 1/2 inch cast iron pipe nipples with 90mm bolts to raise mine. I used 2 inch x 1/2 inch cast iron pipe nipples with 80mm bolts to lower the crank(the hardware store didnt have any more 90mm bolts). Home Depot and Lowes only went up to 60mm bolts.

You wont be able to go up over 2 1/2 inches. The rear part of the tire hits a brace in the back near the bumper. It does tuck the front up quite a bit though.
 
Thanks for dragging this up Steve - it's been on my list for a long time. How many of each length pipe do you need for this?
 
6 for the bracket , 4 for the spare winch.

bolts will all be 8mm x 1.25mm x length

They did have the pipe nipples at Lowes.

Be prepared for a lot of crap to fall down from the bracket. It accumulates alot of dirt over the years.
 
Any newer pics of this to add to this thread? I either see nothing or the infamous red X.
 
Last edited:
Any newer pics of this to add to this thread? I either see nothing or the infamous red X.
I lifted mine more at the front so the tire now sits alot more level than stock. I didn't have to do anything with the tire winch. My spare is a 315 Toyo M/T. This is only until I build my rear bumper.
3-6-07 008.webp
3-6-07 009.webp
 
From a previous post:

I used 2 1/2 inch x 1/2 inch cast iron pipe nipples with 90mm bolts to raise mine. I used 2 inch x 1/2 inch cast iron pipe nipples with 80mm bolts to lower the crank(the hardware store didnt have any more 90mm bolts). Home Depot and Lowes only went up to 60mm bolts.

You wont be able to go up over 2 1/2 inches. The rear part of the tire hits a brace in the back near the bumper. It does tuck the front up quite a bit though.

If you can find more 90mm bolts, then use them.

6 bolts for the bracket (3 on each side)
6 pipe nipples for the bracket

4 bolts for the spare winch
4 nipples for the winch

Couple extra just in case...
 
this type of mod only lifts the front of the spare IIRC, not the rear. So you really don't win very much in real life clearance since it's the rear that would typically be scraped. Having said that, I did it anyway, feels and looks better, so it's positive, but one should be realistic, it's not a miracle mod.
 
this type of mod only lifts the front of the spare IIRC, not the rear. So you really don't win very much in real life clearance since it's the rear that would typically be scraped. Having said that, I did it anyway, feels and looks better, so it's positive, but one should be realistic, it's not a miracle mod.

No, it lifts the whole spare. Though the rear of the tire seems to be the limiting factor when it bumps on the rear crossmember area, IIRC.
 
No, it lifts the whole spare. Though the rear of the tire seems to be the limiting factor when it bumps on the rear crossmember area, IIRC.


not true I think. The rear of the tire hits the cross brace on the upper side of the tire either way and if you remove it, it would hit the crank hoop.

I ended up lifting the elevator brace by about 2" but then I had to lower the elevator itself by about 3/4" and even notch the cross member lip.


https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=18706&highlight=spare+lift





and yes, I hate this crank system...
 
i took it one step further not wanting to pay extra for the metric bolts and cut of the welded on nuts, and through bolted with standard size i had around the house, this worked just fine, and it does look better from behind even if there isnt actually any more ground clearance
 
Thanks, everyone--the pics help a lot and so do the additional explanations. I'm going to do this mod, even if, according to e999, the rear of the tire doesn't lift much. If I can raise the front, that should help angle the tire away from the hitch receiver far enough that I can get a hitch bar in there easier. Right now my spare is against the back of the receiver and about 3/8" in the way of easily slipping a hitch bar in.

:cheers:
 
bump for updating. the original photos on this faq are gone so only fragments remain. if anyone has photos or a link to another thread that could augment this faq, please post them.
 

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