Spangler's 1/72 40 Build (1 Viewer)

[thecrazygreek]

A tip regarding the leaf springs / chassis. If you are planning on buying new springs ie a lift kit. I would consider getting your entire rolling chassis sand blasted and painted in some type of chassis paint designed for frames. I use an SEM product called rust shield. I add the hardener and gloss enhancer for a super tough, great looking, long lasting coating. Then, everything is done as far as chassis work. Just add new springs and hardware and you have a super looking chassis.

When removing old leaf springs, I have had them come off easy, and the hardest, tightest, stuck job ever. For the hard stuff, use a torch if you have one and burn the hell out of them. Then use an impact to finish them off. You may have to end up just cutting them off, which may be as quick if not quicker.

 

[Steeler58]

I use an SEM product called rust shield. I add the hardener and gloss enhancer for a super tough, great looking, long lasting coating.

Thank you. That's great to hear. After I get the axles separated from the frame, the plan is to mount the frame to my rotisserie and media blast with aluminum oxide. I bought these a while ago. Is this the same as you used? I only picked up a quart but probably should've bought a gallon.
Also, looking to reuse springs. Can always switch to OME setup later after I ride on stock for a while.

Btw... have enjoyed reading your posts. Appreciate the help.

 

[Steeler58]

Nice work, looking forward to seeing more.

Thank you.

 

[thecrazygreek]

That's it! Great minds think alike! That stuff is amazing, but I would only use it on bare steel. I really don't fully trust any product that goes over rust. And thats mainly because of the ruff surface / minor imperfections it leaves behind. I am thinking of going powder coat on my next frame. because if done right, (from what I hear) its the best solution. Epoxy with a topcoat works well too..

If you leave the springs on thats okay too, the springs get the same coating, which I have found to stick nicely...

 

[Steeler58]

Up early today before work and was able to get the front axle removed. Used a long reach puller to force the pins out and it worked well. No BFH or heat needed so far. Mounted front end to rotisserie, hope to take it for a spin tonight after work.

 

[waiting for time]

Good job, now keep up your momentum.

 

[Steeler58]

Success. Rotates easily. Next up, remove the large piece of angle welded to the rear of the frame.

 

[Steeler58]

Should probably change my avatar to some sort of turtle looking creature given the lack of speed on this rebuild. At any rate, just wanted to post where things stand and some of the fun things along the way. Removing that 5 x 2 angle iron from the rear bumper was a PITA. Of course there were full bead welds on the top, sides, and the bottom!! I want a stock bumper look so... After much grinding, pounding, cutting, and cursing, was able to remove the angle from the bumper. Bumper was in good shape so worked carefully not to do any damage to it. Unfortunately, ended up cutting into it a little on the bottom side. To fix, I placed several weld beads to fill my mistake and ground them down smooth the best I could. Here's a shot of the angle after driving some wooden wedges. The thought was that I would be able to drive wedges and break the lower welds... uh... no. At one point, I drove a long metal chisel into the gap only to have it shot back out with enough velocity to dent my metal ceiling overhead. Literally dodged a bullet that day. Who knew? Safety first!!

 

[Steeler58]

After removing the angle, realized that the rivets holding the rear frame gussets were ground off on the outside, essentially leaving them to possibly work their way loose if left alone. The simple solution would've been to use bolts to hold the gussets in place. Except, I'm not diggin' the look of bolts in that location. I wanted something more stock looking. So, down the rabbit hole I went to research how to replace the rivets. After a number of web searches on how to install rivets, happened upon the following web site where the author provides instructions on how to "hot rivet" on a truck frame. Take a gander as there's tons of information there about how to get started in terms of tools and whatnot. It's a great writeup so I'm just going to summarize where I deviated a bit.

http://devestechnet.com/Home/FrameRivets

I always wanted an oxy setup after using one in shop class years ago. So, found a good Victor setup online and locally sourced the bottles. I couldn't afford to go out and buy the welding clamps suggested at Deve's so I figured I'd use metal C clamps instead. Plus, I didn't go out and buy a 4X rivet gun either. I used a CH air hammer. Sourced 3/8 x 1-1/8 round head steel rivets and 7/16 x 1-1/2 round head steel rivets from the following web site.

Rivets by Jay-Cee | Rivets In Stock​

Plus sourced the 3/8 rivet setter from the same web site. The 3/8 rivets are on the button for what is needed for the rear gussets and the 7/16 size is what was needed for the front cross member rivets. Here's a shot of my "old" front cross member, the packs of 3/8 and 7/16 rivets (they sell them in packs of 100), the rivet setter, my homemade bucking bar for the rear cross member rivets, and my homemade bucking bolts that I placed inside the frame where the front cross member intersects. There's a rivet length formula in the instructions at Deve's site. I followed their advice and drilled a hole in a piece of oak, used spacers to get my length and cut them on my metal bandsaw. Repeatable and easy peasy.

 

[Steeler58]

Here's a pic of the inside of the rear part of the frame after installing one 3/8 rivet. After drilling out the old rivets, I placed two bolts in place to hold the structure together. Cut the rivets to length, pre drilled the holes with a 3/8 drill bit, placed the rivet in the hole from the outside, and bucked it with the 1/2 x 2 bar in the picture above and C clamps. My son ran the torch and heated the rivet to cherry red while I was right there to hit it with the rivet setter in the air hammer. I used a circular motion to effectively round the head. I should've stopped right there because the first rivet seemed like it was the best one I did that day.

 

[Steeler58]

Here's the "after" picture of rear bumper on the outside left. Rivets look stock and there's zero wiggle and zero play. As the rivets cool, they tend to draw things together tighter (even though I wrenched on the C clamps pretty hard to snug it all together). Overall, I was extremely happy at how things went.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Damn fine work.

 

[Steeler58]

Damn fine work.

Thank you. I have video of things, just need to learn how to post it on the site.

 

[thebigredrocker]

You must have read my mind. I was thinking I’d like to see how you did that. The only way I know is upload video to Youtube then share a link.

 

[Steeler58]

You must have read my mind. I was thinking I’d like to see how you did that. The only way I know is upload video to Youtube then share a link.

Here's my first try at making a video and placing onto YouTube. Probably should've had my teenage son do this. The odd thing about my frame is that the front cross member had the most rust damage. The rear of the frame is in really good condition. I figured since I had another frame with a solid front cross member (and a rusted out back half of the frame), I'd do the replace. So, busted some knuckles removing the good cross member for the repair to my '72 frame. Enjoy and would love to hear suggestions or anything people would like to know. Custom All Thread bucking tools were easy to make with minimal cost. Placed them inside the frame channel and turned the nuts to expand and force the rivet into place to prep it for heating and shaping.

 

[Samppahj]

Very interesting subject. Do you have some part number for the setter? Also would be interested in specs on your hammer. I would have to do same thing with my HJ60 frame.