South Texas 97 - New to me (1 Viewer)

[South Texas 97]

Ordered a bunch of small parts - radiator hoses, water pump, bypass orings, engine mounts, transmission mounts. Decided to fix my radiator mounts at a local shop who I have some confidence in.
Radiator was changed in 2013 @260K miles, but the top mounts have desoldered themselves.
First the transmission mount.
Block the vehicle. Jack under the transfer case, undo cross mount bolts, undo transmission mount bolts on the cross mount, remove cross mount and then undo the four bolts holding the transmission mount to the transmission.

On the bottom of the mount you can see a crack in the rubber part of the mount.
Cleaned up the frame and cross brace, had some surface rust,

Wire-brushed it off, and then liberally applied Fluid Film and put it all back together.
Obviously placebo effect, but I am sure it is smoother than before.
the Engine mounts look like they will be more work, so will hold off on those. for a bit.

 

[South Texas 97]

Next is removing the radiator for repair.
Remove battery and battery box as is tradition. remove front grill. This gave me access to the top radiator bolt using a flexible socket. (almost would be better to remove the headlights, or at least loosen them up. You can see here the top radiator bolt is out, and loosened up the bottom mount

Next remove fan shroud bolts and remove fan. Drain Radiator and remove bottom hose and top hose. Remove Power Steering hose from the bottom of the radiator, and block hoses so they don't leak ATF all over the place.

Remove Radiator and clean the area before going to the next step. (I think I watch too many restoration channels on the YTube)

Fins look clean, and I see evidence of what looks like a weep around a couple of joints. The old school radiator shop will take a good look. Radiator is a CSF made in Indonesia, some time prior to 2013.
While the radiator is at the shop, did the water pump, water pump bypass hose O-rings and the thermostat. The bypass hose has some evidence of scale buildup, but not much.

and the three o-rings were all as flat as a pancake, although still quite flexible. I changed them all anyway.

The bypass connector was certainly pretty crusty, although the o-rings themselves where still flexible.

 

[South Texas 97]

Radiator Return was another matter, it had quite a bit of buildup of I guess Calcium? whatever the case, it came of fairly easily with a Dremel wire brush.

 

[FMC80]

Great work and documentation. I’ll be doing much of the same things next month after coming back from vacation. I’ll be able to use your thread as a hip pocket spare in a pinch.

 

[flintknapper]

You might consider popping your OIL COOLER off and seeing what it looks like inside and underneath the cover. I'm guessing it will be pretty messy under there judging by the rest of the cooling system. My CSF radiator cools my engine fine (same Texas Weather) but you'll want the entire system to be nice and clean. It can get pretty crusty under the Oil Cooler cover.

Mine was clean, but I've owned the vehicle the last 21 years and done all the maintenance. Many are a mess under there.

 

[South Texas 97]

FMC80 and Flintknapper - good feedback, Thanks
Looks like I need to order a few more parts.....

Looking inside the Water Pump housing, Thermostat housing, and thermostat mount, there is effectively no evidence of scale or deposits.
Removed Thermostat, cleaned up all mating surfaces, including the grove where the T'stat o-ring goes .
And then put it all back together - used a tiny bit of silguard (high temp grease) on the o-rings to ease the bypass tube into place, and then torqued all to spec.

I then noticed that one of my fan belts is on the opposite way to the other one (they are a matched pair, just mounted reversed. To fix this will have to loosen off the A/C tensioner pulley to take that belt off first to turn the other one around. This is MUCH easier without the radiator in place!.

 

[flintknapper]

That is remarkably clean. No reason to believe that the rest of it (internally) is much different. Your Oil Cooler is probably fine then.

Mine looked similar @ 316K miles when I pulled the original Water Pump to replace it (though it was still good).

 

[clx16]

Looking good! You mentioned cleaning out the engine so i figured i would give you something to consider. I never put seafoam or anything like that in the crank case and when my bought my cruiser the oil was clumpy and black. The pistons were so covered in carbon you could not see any of the indentions or metal. If you find a good high detergent oil that you change often it will clean things up. If you want to use seafoam or the like, i would stick with sometimes adding to fuel, but if it is the first time adding to fuel you may loosen stuff up and be in need of a replacement fuel filter which is fine anyway. Also to be honest i also only run ethanol free gas in mine cruiser so that may contribute to the clean.

 

[South Texas 97]

Good feedback all. Thanks.
While I am in there.........
I went ahead and pulled the front exhaust manifold, most of the studs unscrewed with the bolts, but they all appear in pretty good condition. so will reuse them. Exhaust pipe bolts where a little stiff, but my baby impact gun was enough to break them loose with all my extensions (about 20inches) and a deep socket. from underneath the truck.

Glad I took it off as the Manifold to pipe seal was way broken, it looks like for some time, so needed to be replaced anyway.

The manifold itself was in good shape and I will reuse the stainless steel gasket.

Color on all three cylinders was the same, with not too much coking/carbon build up.
Next will be a good cleanup on the oil cooler cover and down the side of the engine.
With the radiator out and the exhaust manifold out of the way, changing my engine mounts should be fairly straight forward, at least on this side.

Went ahead and ordered the Oil Cooler gasket and seal anyway, as now I know how to take this off, it can be done at any time, just a couple of hours of work.
I have a Borescope, so will probably take a look inside that stud socket that looks like it is leaking oil - not sure what is going on there.
Cleaned out the Exhaust seal and wire brushed it clean ready for the new seal which is on order.
While I am in there, should probably look at the rear manifold as well..... but perhaps not now.
Cleaned up the heatshield, degreased and cleaned up all the studs and nut and bolts ready to reinstall.

 

[South Texas 97]

CLX16, good feedback on the oil and filters. I have run one can of seafoam through a full tank of gas, and took it on a 100 mile run. I do have a Fuel filter and a couple of new Oil filters ready to go when I try this. Good quality oil and change often is good advice for sure.

 

[South Texas 97]

While I am in there Part II
Engine Oil Cooler was pretty simple to get out, would have been even easier if my arms were 6 inches longer!
One bolt is hidden below the Oil Pressure sender, and I almost missed it - started to lever on the tabs before this bolt was removed.
What was very odd is there was no gasket, although the parts diagrams all show a gasket, this may also explain some of the oil on the lower part of the block.

The greenish sludge on the oil cooler is soft, and easy to wash off - the cooler itself did have the appropriate gaskets on the oil galleries

Looking at the engine side of the Oil Cooler galleries, we see some green sludge, but none of this is hard, it is all soft material. Looking inside the oil filter, there is a mild buildup, but nothing crusty.

Will give this a good cleanup and degrease. Gaskets are on the way, so while I am waiting, cleaning, cleaning.

While I am in here.....new Engine Mounts should be easier to replace with no hoses or Radiator in the way.

 

[flintknapper]

Oh man.........no gasket. Surprised you didn't have a huge leak there and mixing of oil and coolant.

 

[South Texas 97]

Well, some success, I finally got the engine mounts changed last night. Had three or four failed attempts, but finally got it done. As you can see from the side by side comparison, it was worth doing, compressed, perhaps 5mm (1/4")or more and separation.

Now, HOW did I do this.
I was already fairly well deep into the engine, removed and refreshed radiator (delaminated radiator frame mounts), water pump replaced, Engine Oil cooler out, and to do that, the front exhaust manifold.
Loosen the rear transmission mount bolts where it bolts to the frame to allow some flex.
Removed all four engine mount bolts (so I knew I could get them out)
Fabricated up some wooden blocks to fit on two places in the engine block to hold or jack the engine up (not on the oil pan or sump)
Passenger side
Removed front exhaust manifold to expose the engine mounts
Jack up engine slightly to break free the engine mounts from the brackets.
After several different tries to jack the engine to the sky so I could get the bolts/studs to slip out of their mounts with no success, decided to loosen the pax side engine mount bracket.
loosened all four bolts, and removed three of them and the bracket pivoted nicely and out came the mount.

Cleaned up all surfaces, checked for cracks on the frame side, and put the new mount in without much drama at all. Put all the bolts back on the engine mount and torqued them down, and put the large washer and nut on both top and bottom of the mount, and very slowly lowered the engine.

For the Pax side, I decided on the area between the flywheel housing and the oil pan. there is one aluminum brace molded into the which I avoided by cutting the top block to fit without putting pressure on the and I screwed all these blocks together to ensure no movement.



The drivers side was another story completely.
Unbolted and moved the Igniter out of the way (be careful as there is a ground strap there as well)
Under the truck unbolted the differential breather from the frame side of the mount.
Took a bit to get the top bolt off the mount, did that from the top with a wrench and extension.
Found a flat section on the sump that was directly under the engine casting. You can see in this the image the bolt almost out of frame mount, but not quite.

 

[South Texas 97]

Is this a 10HP increase, or just 5HP
As I had my front exhaust manifold off, I wire wheeled it and then painted it with hi temp silver paint.
As it is only the FRONT manifold, will this mean only a 5HP gain?

 

[FMC80]

Great work! I don’t even want to look at my engine mounts yet because I lack confidence for such an endeavor. But maybe one day I will get after that using your method as a guide. Well done!

 

[flintknapper]

I ended up cutting off about 3/16" of the length of each stud on the motor mounts to get the new ones to wiggle into place. They are too long as they are anyway. I see no reason to have a bunch of extra thread beyond the nut. Made it a LOT easier to get the new mounts in.

 

[South Texas 97]

In my quest to change all the rubber hoses out, there are these three heater hoses against the firewall.
With the radiator out, I decided to climb half way into the engine bay to reach these hoses. Very helpful was a set of long needle nose pliers with a bent tip to reach the clamps, especially the one on the bottom, which had an original wrap type clamp.

I was able to unwind the clamp and then twist the hoses with a set of pliers, all the hoses started to break apart when I did this, so I thing it was the right thing to do to change them.
the top two hoses and the 'T' came as a set, but my local auto parts shop had a suitable 90 degree hose that was cut down to fit.

You can see all the hoses where blown out to a greater or lesser extent.
By climbing half way into the engine bay, (radiator and fan were out) it was a fairly simple change.
Used a Dremmel wire brush on the pipe ends to clean them up, they were pretty crusty with I assume calcium buildup? and then a tiny drop of grease smeared on the end, and the hoses slid right in.

Organizing myself for the next steps, we have new gaskets for the Oil Cooler internal and Coolant (external)
the Exhaust manifold, including a new exhaust o-ring and spent some time cleaning up the studs and nuts, they came up pretty nice, even though I don't think they had every been off the motor.

We can see here the exhaust o-ring in place, the cleaned up oil cooler, Oil Pressure sender all back in place.
The electrical harness was cleaned and used some dilectric grease on the connectors.
There are no pictures, but I did take the little shuttle valve out of the oil cooler, cleaned it up, cleaned up the channel where it fits. The FSM says to check it is a slip fit and does not stick, so I simply put it all back together.

 

[South Texas 97]

Putting it all back together, it looks like nothing happened!

I have a bad habit of not tightening down all the bolts, but in this case, everything was torqued to spec. and then double checked!. I do NOT want to have go back in there, although looking back on it, it is not that difficult to do. (so true like many things in our lives!!)

 

[South Texas 97]

Here is how you can tell if you need to change your engine mounts. This 90 degree coolant pipe was banging against one of the cross braces for the suspension, and I spent a while wondering why Mr. Toyoda designed it that way. He did not.
New engine mounts give me clearance.

 

[flintknapper]

Here is how you can tell if you need to change your engine mounts. This 90 degree coolant pipe was banging against one of the cross braces for the suspension, and I spent a while wondering why Mr. Toyoda designed it that way. He did not.
New engine mounts give me clearance.

Mine didn't do that but my mount was not completely separated. In my case....I had a slight vibration at engine idle that I just couldn't chase down. It would cease when the engine would 'torque' which led me to suspect the motor mounts. Sure enough...both of mine were torn and separating to a degree. New ones fixed that problem. NOT fun to remove or put in.....but needed.