Build South Texas 97 - New to me

[South Texas 97]

I think this is the reason the radiator frame de-laminated itself.
the top mount was just a little off in terms of alignment with the bolt and rubber.
Mounted all four bolts loosely in place, including loosening up the bottom mount on the radiator itself, and then gradually tightened all the bolts to ensure the radiator sits as comfortably as possible. While doing this I noticed the top right(from the drivers seat) mounting bolt was kinked at an angle. Using a small file, rounded out the hole just enough so the mounting bolt and rubber sat square with the radiator and the mount. then used a wide washer to distribute the load. (not that it is much)

Also replaced the foam on the A/C lines, which was a little crusty. Not sure why they have that, as the hard line is very well mounted with brackets, but there must be a reason.

To do this, I removed the right front headlight (4x 10mm bolts) which I probably should have done anyway!.
Noticed one of the plastic mounting tabs is almost broken off, will probably make up a small aluminum angle and epoxy it on to the tab.

 

[FMC80]

You’re doing great work and solid job of documenting it. I appreciate your pictures and well written posts for sure. Keep up the great work

 

[South Texas 97]

FMC80, thanks for the kind words.
Next up will be steering joints(reviewing all the ball joints and such), followed by suspension bushings and perhaps shocks.

 

[Irish Reiver]

I think this is the reason the radiator frame de-laminated itself.
the top mount was just a little off in terms of alignment with the bolt and rubber.
Mounted all four bolts loosely in place, including loosening up the bottom mount on the radiator itself, and then gradually tightened all the bolts to ensure the radiator sits as comfortably as possible. While doing this I noticed the top right(from the drivers seat) mounting bolt was kinked at an angle. Using a small file, rounded out the hole just enough so the mounting bolt and rubber sat square with the radiator and the mount. then used a wide washer to distribute the load. (not that it is much) View attachment 2649771
Also replaced the foam on the A/C lines, which was a little crusty. Not sure why they have that, as the hard line is very well mounted with brackets, but there must be a reason.
View attachment 2649772

what did you use as a replacement for the A/C foam?

 

[South Texas 97]

Just used some tube foam insulation from the local hardware store. Looking at the remains of the original foam, it did not look like anything super special.

 

[South Texas 97]

This week replaced my windshield - multiple cracks and chips. Went to a place in Houston called Affordable Autoglass, I purchased the windshield gasket via the net, as it looked like the old glass was original (toyota labled glass) so even though it did not look bad, figured the rubber would crack as they took the old windshield out. Being Houston, with lots of stone chip damage on paint and windshields, they actually had 7 of these in stock. Installed price of USD160. (plus 60 for the gasket). For that price it is not an original Toyota, but I think PYR or something like that. Windshields here are almost consumable items. They did a good job.
Tie Rod Ends
Next up was the tie rod ends - replaced all four, two had cracked rubber, although there did not seem to be movement, it would just be a matter of time. Total time to change was only a couple of hours - hardest part was cracking the old ones off their taper fit.
Cleaned up the mounting with a Dremel wire brush and then torqued everything down and pinned the nuts.
Monday will go to my local alignment shop to see how well I did.

 

[South Texas 97]

the alignment was well worth the $. Not too far off, but a laser alignment makes it perfect. one set of worn tires will easily have the alignment pay for itself!.

Took 10 days to ride my son's Honda 750 Spirit Shadow from Houston to Seattle, riding all along the Rockies, and then spent another 2 days riding around the Olympic peninsula - Amazing scenery, and good people everywhere. another 10 days with my son, daughter-in-law, and a one year old grandson. Amazing!

When we got back, there was a new touch screen 2DIN radio waiting for install- instructions were minimal, but sufficient.

remove the four screws and the panel pulls off from the right. Removing a few of the plugs on the top of the panel was able to swing it out of the way to make the install easier.

somehow I swapped these two - put the reverse input to the parking brake, and the parking brake input to the reverse signal (it still worked, but logic was AFU)
In this particular BOSS BE7ACP model, the parking brake input is simply a ground when the hand brake is on.

Took a few minutes to figure how to route the backup camera through the tailgate and up out of the way under the rear bumper. and then fed it through to the RHS tail light for reverse +12V from the backup lights.

Took a moment to label the wires for future reference. Yes, this is a soldered joint with marine heat shrink with a sealant.
Although, yes, I am also using the wire clamps everyone loves to hate. where I connect to the original harness.
I have removed a number of extras the PO had on the wiring, especially under the dash, and use a liquid rubber and then insulation tape to seal off the exposed wire.

the Camera signal cable has an additional wire for +12V reverse, so you don't have to run an additional wire.
Having opened up most of the side of the Cruiser to run this signal wire, I am continually impressed by the construction and care that Toyota has taken to protect the wiring, as well as the condition of this particular truck.

On to the Next Project.

 

[richmondbob]

Thanks Lumbee1 I started small as you can see, and am working my way up. Fluids, even brake fluid flush and auto trans flush was not too bad. Take the time to prepare parts and tools, and do lots of reading. I find the fear beforehand is actually much worse than the job itself! True in much of life.

I'm sure I'm not the only one thinking you could make posts just about the links you read preparing for each job, or add them to your posts. I know I could use it.

 

[South Texas 97]

Thanks, for that richmondbob, I will keep that in mind on my next adventure/project.

 

[South Texas 97]

Next project is Fuel Pump - with 330k miles, something to look at from a reliability perspective. While I am in there, replace all the rubber hoses
Doing some research we have these parts
Fuel System Components

This is the standard parts diagram for the Fuel System Components, however, it looks like descriptions of 20 and 21 are reversed.

16. Connector Pipe (lower) 77011-60030
17. Vent Tube 77018-60030
18. Fuel Shut off solenoid 77380-26010
19. Fuel Pump 23221-66040 confirmed
20. Fuel Pump Bracket 23206-66900 Not needed) (image and description do not match - seems to be switched with 21)
21. Fuel Pump Tank Seal 77169-60010 confirmed from other threads
22. Fuel Pump Tube 23091-61020
23. Fuel Pump Strainer 23217-16490 confirmed (Filter Fuel Pump)
24. Fuel Gauge Sending unit. 83320-69055 (Not needed - current one is working fine)
and from several other forum threads on fuel pumps we have:
NA. Gasket 90430-12026 x2 1.48 ea so why not
NA. Clip, Fuel filter 23219-03010 tells me does not fit a 97 Land Cruiser
NA. Fuel Pump Hose Clamp 90467-12067 x2 1.74ea, so why not

I did see several folks went to a major online parts store - the pump itself (19. 23221-66040 )was a DENSO.

Ordered previously a fuel filter - so will change this at the same time. (it comes with the banjo bolts and crush washers)

when I got the truck, ran a tank of premium gas and a can of sea-foam through the fuel system - the world did not explode and to date the engine is still running.

Question is, is there anything else I should be changing under that cover while I am in there?

 

[FMC80]

Next project is Fuel Pump - with 330k miles, something to look at from a reliability perspective. While I am in there, replace all the rubber hoses
Doing some research we have these parts
Fuel System Components
View attachment 2730971
This is the standard parts diagram for the Fuel System Components, however, it looks like descriptions of 20 and 21 are reversed.

16. Connector Pipe (lower) 77011-60030
17. Vent Tube 77018-60030
18. Fuel Shut off solenoid 77380-26010
19. Fuel Pump 23221-66040 confirmed
20. Fuel Pump Bracket 23206-66900 Not needed) (image and description do not match - seems to be switched with 21)
21. Fuel Pump Tank Seal 77169-60010 confirmed from other threads
22. Fuel Pump Tube 23091-61020
23. Fuel Pump Strainer 23217-16490 confirmed (Filter Fuel Pump)
24. Fuel Gauge Sending unit. 83320-69055 (Not needed - current one is working fine)
and from several other forum threads on fuel pumps we have:
NA. Gasket 90430-12026 x2 1.48 ea so why not
NA. Clip, Fuel filter 23219-03010 tells me does not fit a 97 Land Cruiser
NA. Fuel Pump Hose Clamp 90467-12067 x2 1.74ea, so why not

I did see several folks went to a major online parts store - the pump itself (19. 23221-66040 )was a DENSO.

Ordered previously a fuel filter - so will change this at the same time. (it comes with the banjo bolts and crush washers)

when I got the truck, ran a tank of premium gas and a can of sea-foam through the fuel system - the world did not explode and to date the engine is still running.

Question is, is there anything else I should be changing under that cover while I am in there?

Looks like a close match to the list I created. I wasn’t planning to buy the connector pipe (16), vent tube (17), or fuel pump tube (22). Is there a reason you’re planning to replace those?

 

[South Texas 97]

My thoughts were anything rubber or plastic that I could get to, I would replace.

 

[FMC80]

Guess I just added more parts to my list

 

[South Texas 97]

Thanks, FMC80, but as Isaac says this is not a how to video, but how I did it.
Not sure I can get to all of these hoses, but the additional bits, if I cannot reach them, will go in a box of future rebuild parts.

 

[FMC80]

Thanks, FMC80, but as Isaac says this is not a how to video, but how I did it.
Not sure I can get to all of these hoses, but the additional bits, if I cannot reach them, will go in a box of future rebuild parts.

Then I’ll have to wait to order until you crack yours open. I’m piecing together the brake system right now; next is fuel system.

 

[FMC80]

Btw, where are you buying your parts? If you’re going with Olathe, they are very expensive compared to other options.

Edit, did you need this part 23239-63010? It's the fuel line that connects to the fuel pump. Or 23249-74150 which is the rubber cushion for the fuel pump. Not sure if the fuel pump comes with it or not.

 

[South Texas 97]

Fuel pump replacement getting started. Removed the rear seats, and pulled back the carpet. Discovered some nasty sticky stuff fro PO.

remove the cover it all looks brand new

bit dusty under there, but cleans up well.

now just waiting on some parts. The DENSO pump I ordered from Rock auto and the other bits from McGeorge Toyota.

 

[clx16]

Nasty... I like using simple green and a tarp to clean the carpet and hang it out to dry. Seems like a good time for it.

 

[South Texas 97]

CLX16, funny you mention that, I actually ordered new carpet from Factory Interiors one day a couple of months back when they had a 50% off sale. My interior color scheme is Old Oak, and I had them send me samples so I could match the color, it turns out to be their 9197 color, dark oak or something like that. Will have some pictures up shortly.
when I first bought the truck I rented one of those industrial hot water vacuum carpet cleaner, and stopped after two rounds of deep steam followed by the cleaner/vacuum. it was cleaner, but still pretty bad.

With the seats out I was able to get to the power seat worm gear. 72206-30040. The seat was as low as it would go so drilled a couple of holes in the base to get to the Phillips head screws holding the plastic cover plate on. Bending up the metal tabs allowed the seat leather to lift up enough.
Sure enough the gear was stripped, or mostly stripped.

made sure the rails were both at the same extension and then greased up the worm screws.

 

[South Texas 97]

Right, on to something absolutely not necessary.
The condition of the carpet, as stated above was serviceable but not great, and I got a good deal on a replacement carpet from Factory Interiors.
Started with the tailgate and bed area, the tailgate had these 2mm/ or 1/8 tiny staples, and the bed area has a stitched plastic edge. I stripped the plastic edge and the tailgate liner, and took it to a local auto upholsterer stitched and stapled this up.
I decided to try some sound deadening material so bought one box of each.

The new carpet has pretty generous edges for trimming, and you can see the color difference.

The carpets were original, with the original tags from the factory

Pulling out the old carpet was a bit of a rats nest of underlayment, but it pulled and scraped off pretty easily and gave me a good look at the floor, which is in excellent condition.