Sound Deadening

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sound deadener showdown

thanks for the info. after reading this site, a great link, i also inquired about his two piece method - the closed cell foam, and the mass loaded vinyl. i like this method better, and seems to be a key component of not just reducing the vibration and resonance, but also deadening sound.

thanks also for the comment on the OEM asphalt stuff. your method sounds good, i live in park city UT, and its been 10 deg F already in mornings, i wonder if thats enough to make it brittle? and then just trying to break it out when its brittle... are you hammer on it from the inside? or hammer under side?

putting it over the top, sounds enticing, but i think the dampener works best when physically bonded to the metal.
 
The key is bonded to something rigid. If bonded to something flexible and loose then if it is supposed to mass load the panel it won't be able to. If the tar is tight and If you can get a good bond to it I'd be inclined to leave it.
 
apply sound deadener to TLC asphalt

thanks for the note, and the disclaimer.....

I have asked don, the SDS sound deadener showdown guy, i will see what he says and report back...

in the mean time, i have a mess! a GUYRAGE full of parts, pieces, screws carpet and random stuff that has been hidden under the seats!.
 
hehehe - You are definitely on the right track.

I used 5lbs of dry ice and a pair of hammers, one with the rubber/plastic head which seemed to work better than a regular hammer.

My suggestions are to get TWO 5 lb bags of dry ice to make it go quicker, just shuffling one out of the way while the 2nd set is cooling it somewhere else. And to use the plastic head hammer (or a pair of them). We also used some flat head screwdrivers in some spots to get up stubborn stuck bits. But hitting the tar after freezing it for 1-2min (at 40-50F outside temp), worked very well and got it to come up in big chunks. You can see a bit more detail - It's in the link in my sig for "Audio Dampener".

Before i pulled mine I spoke with Ant (Second Skin Audio Owner) and he said what ntsqd said - best result will be when bonded to metal directly. Still going to be an improvement over OEM Tar, but hell i'm taking the time to do it, so why not do it right?! And it went quick w/ an extra pair of hands helping.

I'd bet Don at SDS will say the same. Though he also only recommends 25% coverage - which i know i did a little bit more... hehehe. A bit overkill, but that's my MO.

HTH - GL!
 
I applied a layer over the asphault stuff 5 years ago, no problems since.

A layer on the inside of the outer door skin, and on the inside of the inner door skin is not overkill but actually very effective.
 
sound deadening in FJ62

Had a great conversation with Don, at sound deadening showdown. He seems to be a very good resource about sound deadening, reducing resonance in sheet metal, as well as blocking sound.

Constrained layer to reduce resonance - this layer, often a butyl, and aluminum, does a great job to stop resonance - the cymbal effect, or reducing the tinny sound when slamming the door. best if this is applied to the metal.

Mass loaded barrier for sound blocking - using a decoupler closed cell foam, and then a heavy Mass loaded foam will deaden sound.

So i took the advise on this thread to use 10 lbs of dry ice, to crack out the asphalt in my floor. it worked very well, with very little effort, the dry ice and the soft hammer did most of the work. a steel hammer can dent the floor easily, but a soft hammer will crack the asphalt, and then can lift it out. it took me about an hour to get the front and back seat area (all but cargo) completely cleaned out. i then used mineral spirits to clean up the metal, and scratched around to get everything ready to take the new acoustics.

i ordered all three components from Sound deadening showdown - the Constrained layer tiles, closed cell foam, and the Mass loaded foam....

I have also used this opportunity to clean up the carpets, and get my gages that have been bouncing around on the hump into a console!
fj.floor.webp
 
88tlc said:
Had a great conversation with Don, at sound deadening showdown. He seems to be a very good resource about sound deadening, reducing resonance in sheet metal, as well as blocking sound.

Constrained layer to reduce resonance - this layer, often a butyl, and aluminum, does a great job to stop resonance - the cymbal effect, or reducing the tinny sound when slamming the door. best if this is applied to the metal.

Mass loaded barrier for sound blocking - using a decoupler closed cell foam, and then a heavy Mass loaded foam will deaden sound.

So i took the advise on this thread to use 10 lbs of dry ice, to crack out the asphalt in my floor. it worked very well, with very little effort, the dry ice and the soft hammer did most of the work. a steel hammer can dent the floor easily, but a soft hammer will crack the asphalt, and then can lift it out. it took me about an hour to get the front and back seat area (all but cargo) completely cleaned out. i then used mineral spirits to clean up the metal, and scratched around to get everything ready to take the new acoustics.

i ordered all three components from Sound deadening showdown - the Constrained layer tiles, closed cell foam, and the Mass loaded foam....

I have also used this opportunity to clean up the carpets, and get my gages that have been bouncing around on the hump into a console!
Click to expand...

Any update?
 
sound deadening in FJ62

been installing the materials for the sound deadening in my fj62. been a big project, but have the project is getting all the parts out of the interior, getting it cleaned, and then putting the materials on.

CLD tiles - i have installed this in the interior floor, the rear wheel humps, the rear floor, the outer skin on the doors, and the outer skin on the rear quarter panels, and the hood. not completly covered, but easy to cover like 50%. this is recommended from Don at sounddeadenershowdown.com for eliminating the top hat metal sound.

The hood was incredible. it was so 'tinky' before, and with the diesel conversion in there was constantly a rattle. after, the effects are incredible, will be good to hear if makes a difference inside.

Closed cell foam - this added layer helps to block out sound and decouple the heavy vinyl used to be a decoupled mass loaded vinyl sound blocker.

the heavy vinyl i got from don at sounddeadenershowdown.com. he is selling his own, and this stuff is good. a roll weighed over 65 lbs, is only like 1/8" thick, but is about 1 lb/sqft. heavy but good deadener. is used the carpet as a pattern for this stuff, since its a bit heavy and awkward to cut. the carpet trick was good, gets it in place, and then some fine tuning around the complex curves.

when i got to the doors, i got distracted with other door projects - improving electrical door locks, and the power windows. this link on ih8mud shows some simple relays that improve the performance of these! power windows and door locks

following up this mod, i will install a thinner 1/8 thick closed cell, then the heavy vinyl layer, then the door panel.
88tlc.damplifier.webp
88tlc.mlv.webp
88tlc.sds.webp
 
sound deadening in FJ62

I wanted to apply sound deadening CLD tiles on the hood. the first dilemma was getting the pad off. all the plastic tabs would break, so i just got the claw hammer out and broke them, pulled them out. perhaps if it was hot, they would flex more.

i then cleaned up the metal, with paint thinner, then alcohol.

then added the sounddeadenershowdown tiles, i think these are the best for high temp resistance, i do not want them falling off! also note, i did not cover the hood metal completely, no need. just the easy 50% to 70%.

I then found a few of the supporting braces rattling against the hood sheetmetal, some of the scrap closed cell foam wedged between the two metal pieces, and eliminated those rattles.

then i put the factory pad back on, and used replacement christmas tree trim clips to reinstall.

here are a couple small videos of before and after on the hood.
before i added anything

YouTube - fj62 hood before sound deadening


and then after, what a difference.

YouTube - fj62 hood with sound deadening materials added.
 
Huge difference - thats awesome! And Billy Joel "Bigshot" in the background...

My truck doesn't even have the liner on the hood anymore - I didn't even know there was supposed to be one there.
 
How much road noise or engine noise did using the sonudeadner on the hood make?
I know it's good for the vibration, but how does that translate to your ears when driving?

It's on my list of things to do, and Iam trying to decide if it's worth it.
 
Hey 88TLC, how much of the heavy vinyl did you order to do the whole truck?
 
88tlc

Nice U tub fies , But a picture of the work is most respected !!!



You never showed whats under your hood pad.

As for clips Geno 128's are 6c each, Buy a box of 50 .

VT
 
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i'm about to put mmw68's quietc**p and the mcmaster-carr sound deadening into my '90 62. i've already put the quietc**p in the cargo area, quarter panels, and doors. this weekend will be the passenger area. i'll post some during the after pics.
 
Many car forums have been raving about a product called quickroof. It sells at home depot for $16 and is 6in by 25 ft. Sticks extreamly well, and does the same thing as DM. If you want more feed back about this product just google search "quickroof for car". There is also a video on youtube that does an install with quick roof on his VW bug.
 
I went with the cruiser crap. Now i'm not finished building the motor so no real test yet but I liked working with it better than the brown bag I did my old truck with.
IMG_0653.jpg
 
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