Sound Deadener: Dynamat or Second Skin?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

tone33

tone33

SILVER Star
10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jan 22, 2010
Threads
57
Messages
569
Location
Spring Hill, TN
I'm lining my floor with sound deadener. Anyone have experience with both Dynamat and Second Skin? Thoughts on which is better? I've read a few posts on here, just curious if there are any updates, if anyone has done this recently and has more experience to share, etc. Here's what I came up with for pricing.. Any others I should consider? I'm out on going tar based route (fat mat).

second skin (company site)
80 sq ft $263

dynamat (amazon)
72 sq ft $276

quietcrap (http://www.cruisercrap.com/quietcrap/index.html)
100 sq ft $230
 
Last edited:
The aftermarket automotive sound deadening products are mostly ineffective. You can spend as much money as you want on them, but the fact is they will not work like proper materials.

Vehicle sound deadening-

CLD tiles properly employed (this is what dynamat is, just 5 times what it should cost and with bad instructions)

Closed cell foam

Mass loaded vinyl

Those are your ingredients. Use them properly and even a tin can of a vehicle will be dead quiet inside. Use them poorly and it will still be far better than Dynamat type products.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ is where I purchase quality CLD tiles.

I purchase closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl locally in bulk.
 
what about peel-n-seal from lowes?
 
Will have to look into the CLD tile option...looks interesting, maybe a bit more work to figure out? (not just peel and stick).

Peel n seal looks to be tar based from a quick google search

QuietCrap looks like a good option although not that cheap (anymore?). 100 sqft for $230.
 
I've been installing QuietCrap in my pickup cab as I put the interior back together. It's good stuff, stickier than you'd think. I had some trouble getting it to stick to the old stuff on the floor in a few spots, but as soon as I got it warm with the heat gun, it got SUPER sticky and it's on now, not coming back off.

I lined the outer skins of my doors before I re-installed all the guts the other day. Really got rid of the tinny ring when you close them. It's not a Lexus "thunk" yet, but I still have to do the inner skin and put on the door panel.

I bought the 50 sq ft roll, it will be plenty for my application. I'm debating doing the underside of the hood. Not sure the advantage?
 
tone33 said:
Peel n seal looks to be tar based from a quick google search
Click to expand...

The business side is 40mil rubberized asphalt. which is not the same thing as tar, or as regular non-rubberized asphalt.

there's two layers of polymer film and a layer of aluminum foil over that.

It does stink more than the butyl-based products. You just have to tape the edges.

It does not get hard and delaminate and crack like regular asphalt roofing products.
 
But in general i agree that just slapping sound deadening sheets everywhere won't do the whole job.

It's good at making big panels of metal not resonate so much. that's it.
 
I used Dynamatt=Xtreme on the DS door, worked very well. Used cut sections to put on the interior surface of the outer door skin, small sections on the backside of the inner (metal) door skin/frame. Probably used too much for one door but wanted that door super quiet as it was closest to my ears. I also glued 1/8" thick home carpet underlayment on the backside of the inner (wood) door panel. Much quieter, tinny sound is gone, just a solid thunk.
 
I messed up my dynamat price quote in my original post (fixed now). Looks like quietcrap is by far the cheapest - $2.30 per sq ft compared to second skin $3.28 and dynamat $3.83 - and it gets great reviews here on mud. Unless I decide to get adventurous and figure out CLD tiles then I'm probably going with quietcrap. :bounce:
 
Guys Butyl the stuffsoundeadners call by fancy names is the same as a roll of self adhesive roofing roll you can but them with silver backing or just plain black. If you guys look closely at the inside driver side hump oh the tranny you will notice that it is black roofing adhesive.
I bought a roll of the silver backing and is has worked great on various of my vehicles with no problem quieter ride and better music sound.

look under self adhesive roofing membrane and you chose the thickness
 
Dominican FZJ80 said:
Guys Butyl the stuffsoundeadners call by fancy names is the same as a roll of self adhesive roofing roll you can but them with silver backing or just plain black. If you guys look closely at the inside driver side hump oh the tranny you will notice that it is black roofing adhesive.
I bought a roll of the silver backing and is has worked great on various of my vehicles with no problem quieter ride and better music sound.

look under self adhesive roofing membrane and you chose the thickness
Click to expand...

But this is tar based yes? There are numerous posts on here about the pros/cons for tar vs butyl... and the butyl wins out in my book, from what I've read.
 
jhunhapi said:
Ive also been looking into this. I found this from hotrodders.com very interesting

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/lets-discuss-dynamat-alternatives-219804.html

Sound Deadening Installation from StarQuestClub.com

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=131585

A little run down

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Ceramic_insulation

What you guys think?
Click to expand...


Good links, as is the sound deadener showdown one posted earlier. I'll probably just go with quietcrap and lay it down everywhere, don't really want to spend time researching this to death and 2 days on the install. I'd rather research my rook rack i'm going to build, or properly calibrate my ultraguage, or go wheelin! I also have cooling system issues that I'm working on... but I digress.
 
I recently used second skin. I lined all my door panels, rear 1/4 panels and entire floor front to back. It definitely makes a difference. As someone else pointed out it really takes away the tinny sound more than quietening the interior, it also still smells a bit though.
 
I used capet padding in the rear cargo and rolled cell foam insulation on the doors. Haven't noticed a huge difference since I have not done the rear doors, under carpet or headliner. I think unless all those are done only then can you really tell a difference in quietness.

IMG_0372.webp


IMG_0323.webp
 
69rambler said:
The aftermarket automotive sound deadening products are mostly ineffective.
Click to expand...

I disagree - I used them in my 40 to great success

no idea on performance in an 80; and quite frankly, I do not really want to need to find out :doh:
 
Do you guys take the old deading out?

Cuz that what I did in my old Celicas. It weighed aprox 35lbs when I finished. Ive use broken up dry ice and used a big screwdriver and hammer and comes out easy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom