SOR sliding fj40 cargo windows?

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Brian #1, any interference with the slider and cage? Do you have any pics that show the clearance by chance? I have a metal tech in mine and was told that the window handle may hit the cage.

D

Oh man, I never really noticed how close that latch comes to the roll bar. I've got about 1/4" on one side and 3/8" on the other. We built up the cage with the roof at a different location, so I guess we lucked out getting it in there straight!

In a real pinch it looks like you might be able to trim the latch back maybe 1/4" while keeping it functional, but that would be a last resort type thing. On mine, if the latches were to hit the cage, the windows would slide open 4 1/2" before they stopped dead. This amount would depend on where the "B" hoop of the cage had been mounted though.

I've found that opening the sliders more than 3 or 4 inches doesn't really increase the airflow much on the highway. When you're slow, the further open the better. Just something to consider... Let me know if you need any measurements or anything.

Also on my Metaltech kit the B hoop was bowed-in a little. The lower ends of the hoop were closer together than the top. I don't know if this is designed-in with their kit, or an oddball, but either way it might be giving me a slightly more clearance for the latches.

The first pic is what you would get if the latch hit the roll cage.
Second is the clearance between the latch and the cage.
Third is looking down at the latch to see how much could be trimmed off if required.

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Dude, youre awesome! Thanks a bunch. I'll look at mine today and take a quick measurement so we can compare.

I welded my mt cage so it's probably right tweaked lol.

D
 
$400 is halfway towards a set of bows If you enjoy airflow........just sayin :)

Sliding windows is sorta like walking around with your fly down......whereas bows and full length bikini is like driving around with No pants on !!! :moon:

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Nooope. Bows would make it even taller man, my garage is vertically challenged as it is. I can get the van in there without the hard top but with it on its a no go. I'll take the top off and fold the windshield if i really feel the need for max flow. Just lookkng for an improvement with the ht on right now.

D
 
You're welcome bro.

I do get the most airflow, by far, with the rear hatch open. I think mine is not sucking exhaust in because of the old-school side pipes.

Anyone know if you get exhaust in the cab with the stock exhaust exit and the hatch open? ... I'm considering rams horns and and full exhaust.
B
 
Took a few measurements and my b hoop is bowed a tad as well.

All measurements are from hoop to glass.

Ds top 1.5" ps top 2"
Ds bottom 2" ps 2 1/4"

Have 2 3/4" ds and 3" ps between the window and b to c tubes.

Even if they open part way ill be happy man.

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the latch hits the roll bar on a factory roll cage not allowing the window to open all the way. I ran into this on the last two sets i installed both of which were 75 models.

how far would they open?
 
You're welcome bro.

I do get the most airflow, by far, with the rear hatch open. I think mine is not sucking exhaust in because of the old-school side pipes.

Anyone know if you get exhaust in the cab with the stock exhaust exit and the hatch open? ... I'm considering rams horns and and full exhaust.
B
I would think that with the door windows, kick vents, windshield( if you have a early one with vent) open there wouldn't be much of a vacuum created at wheeling speed.
 
They fit and open roughly 13"×13".

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D
 
For those of you with the SOR sliding widows, any problems with leaks with the windows shut? I have a Feb '76 40 without the pop outs. It def causes a vacuum while driving and doesn't allow air to move as much as I would prefer. (My 4Runner has spoiled me- driving with the front windows and rear window down, air passes thru very well.)

In addition to the SOR windows, I've considered just adding the pop outs. I know the crossbar is needed, but what else? Not being able to personally see the inside of a Aug '76 or newer 40, what all is needed to convert my existing windows to the pop outs? I've already got the weatherstripping and glass out...
 
I love them.
There was definitely an air flow issue with the windows down and not hard to see why the later trucks had provisions from factory.
 
I'm a little late to this thread, but gotta say I remember when Downey sold the first side sliders on the market 30-40 years ago, and I think they were south of $160.00 a pair- - -just some more old nostalgic BS from the grandpa of the industry.
 
For those of you with the SOR sliding widows, any problems with leaks with the windows shut? I have a Feb '76 40 without the pop outs. It def causes a vacuum while driving and doesn't allow air to move as much as I would prefer. (My 4Runner has spoiled me- driving with the front windows and rear window down, air passes thru very well.)

I can only answer about the leak part of your question.. no leaks as far as I know and still very happy with the windows.
One other thing possibly worth mentioning. I recently added a bus/ truck dash fan, to the rear corner inside the cab. It really works wonders for stirring up and circulating the air. Would have added one a long time ago had I known. 👍
 
Thank you all for the feedback. Still not sure which avenue I’ll take, but this helps.
 
These sliding windows look nice but for air circulation opening the rear hatch works very well.
Since I'm born I have always known my truck (or my father's truck back at the time) with the rear hatch open all summer long, either at 90° or resting on the spare wheel at 45°. Bonus point, when you are a kid sited in the back it's a lot easier to get out by yourself like that :D
 
Thank you all for the feedback. Still not sure which avenue I’ll take, but this helps.

Ive got a single window for sale in the classifieds for another option.
 
These sliding windows look nice but for air circulation opening the rear hatch works very well.
Since I'm born I have always known my truck (or my father's truck back at the time) with the rear hatch open all summer long, either at 90° or resting on the spare wheel at 45°. Bonus point, when you are a kid sited in the back it's a lot easier to get out by yourself like that :D

I bet that is nice! However, having amby doors out back rules that option out.



Ive got a single window for sale in the classifieds for another option.

How is this installed? Is it similar to SOR's method with the trim ring or does it install with weatherstripping like the other windows?
 

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