Something timing belt-ish failed (1 Viewer)

[bdruff]

Slow progress, mostly because I’m doing this all for the first time. Thanks again for all the help.

I removed the oil sending unit and successfully used the chain wrench to remove the crankshaft and two cam gears. A piece of the old timing belt worked just fine.

The Crankshaft pulley is stuck on though. The YouTube video showed him just slide it off after he removed the bolt. He did say something like, “We got lucky.” I didn’t.

Any tips on getting the pulley off?

Edit* hammer and crowbar.

I'm going to rent a torque wrench for the crankshaft bolt. Can I put it all together and go back to torque before I put the serpentine belt on? Or do I need to do it before lining up the cam gears?

 

[2001LC]

If pulley won't forcibly wiggly/walk off after spraying shaft with penetrating oil. Then best to run up to parts store and rent/buy a puller.

Some pry, but risk damaging it and components around it. I don't recommend.

You could modify the tool you made.
Food for though:

 

[bdruff]

Well ****! Now what?!?! I thought I was being so careful.

 

[2001LC]

You could call local Toyota/Lexus Dealer, salvage yards and check CL.
I've three engines I'm parting out. Toyota 2uz-fe VVTi engine PARTS Land Cruiser, 4Runner, GX470, Lexus
PM me with your VIN and I'll see if one will work for you.

With Holidays it may take awhile

 

[bdruff]

I just ordered one from eBay. It was only $20 but I have to wait till Jan 5th.

Super bummed. I could have gone to the salvage yard tomorrow, but I hate going out there. There is a place called Fresno Tap recycling, but they couldn't help.

 

[bdruff]

I wonder if the seal has ever been replaced...

Going to take my time and clean it up. I'm afraid of forgetting something because I have to wait at least a week to work on it now.

I guess I can do the seals. And the water pump will have plenty of time to cure.

Having 1 car and a big family is the pits.

 

[2001LC]

Plug the oil sending unit hole with piece of tape, foil or sending unit (finger tight) to keep clean. Use great care not to damage seal housings. Good luck!

 

[bdruff]

Do I need to drain the oil to change the crank seal?

Searched...looks like I'll lose a little oil bit I don't need to drain.

 

[bdruff]

Got the seals out and cleaned it up a bit.

I drilled very small holes in the center of the seals, being extremely careful. I then screwed a wood screw in just far enough to grab, then used a pry bar against a roll of duck tape for leverage, and very carefully pulled it out. All 3 came off easily.

I have a 1 1/2 ABS T that I'll use to press the new ones on.

 

[abuck99]

^ To install you can use the old seal with an appropriate sized socket and gently tap the new seal in.

Pay close attention to the depth at which you drive the seals in or they will leak: should be even all the way around with outer edge of the race.

Also if you are near 200k miles its a good time to replace the brushes in your alternator since its easy access hanging right there.

 

[bdruff]

Good call on the alternator brushes. I'm just over 200,000 miles.

Online shows 2 parts numbers that fit.

27370-20130 Fits 2UZFE/UZJ100 Production models between 08/2002-07/2004.

27370-75060 Fits 2UZFE/UZJ100 Production models between 01/1998-08/2002.

They are about the same price but not exactly. VIN shows both fit.

 

[abuck99]

If youre ordering stuff, order a spare plug connector in case yours crumbles when you remove it.

Order the brush kit that suits your production date

 

[bdruff]

[QUOTE="abuck99, post: 12103957, member: 113395"

Order the brush kit that suits your production date[/QUOTE]

Seemed like a dumb question but Amazon stated that the correct part number would not fit my 2003 lx470. Just wanted to double check.

 

[bdruff]

Cam sprocket protected by piece of old timing belt, can be held with chain wrench. Just use care not to damage.

In the none VVT engine like your 03, guys in mud have turned the crank 360 deg with belt off. Not once have they run into interface (piston hitting a valve). So don't get overly concerned with marks, except during assembly.

With crankshaft set to TDC, the #1 piston is at top of cylinder. Which happens when mark on harmonic damper (circled in red ) aligned to zero on dial (not pictured) that is fixed to lower timing belt cover. TDC of #1 cyl can also be set with timing mark (notch, red arrow points to) on crank sprocket and mark (bump, yellow arrow points to) on oil pump housing.
View attachment 1861957Crank Marks for belt are seen here:
View attachment 1861978


With LH cam timing marks aligned, the #1 intake & exhaust valves are closed for compression stroke. We must also aligned RH cam marks. Then belt ties it altogether.
This is a VVT engine so cam sprockets looks a little different than non. This sprocket is about 1/2 tooth past (CW) the mark on engine. View attachment 1861990
Yellow arrow points to timing mark on engine. Red arrow points to mark on this cam sprocket which is about 1/2 tooth past (CW) the mark on engine.
Mark sure to NOT use the "T" for cam marks timing mark.
View attachment 1861998
In these pictures sprocket happens to be about 1/2 tooth pass (CW) of the timing mark on engine.
View attachment 1861986

Tips:
Cover radiator with cardboard.
With all spark plus out, it makes turning crank easy.
Cleaning harmonic balancer and crankshaft then adding a little grease where they mate, makes slipping on and off easy.

Forgive me, but this is totally new. I think that I have the timing belt gear on correctly. The notch in the gear is ligned up with the bump on the engine.

It is difficult to get the cam gears to stop perfectly when trying to lign up the line on the gear with the line next to the T on the housing.

The cam gears wants to continue to rotate to the next resting position.

Am I just sort of balancing it in that position untill I get the belt on?

 

[2001LC]

You're fine. In-fact Toyota changed the procedure and rightly so. They once had put on the lower cover and harmonic balance, which blocked our view of belt marks at crank.

Here is picture from 2007 FSM. You can see that they now actually tell us to set LH (diver side) cam 1/2 tooth forward of mark and RH cam 1 tooth forward. Also see picture in post #125, notice cams forward of mark.

They also now have us put belt on before tension. This works much better, as we don't fight the belt so much. I actual put belt on then install idler, followed be tensioner. This way I don't fight tension in belt. But I do have belt move around on me. One solution, if you don't have 4 hands, is clip/clamp belt (lightly) in position on sprockets as yo install LH idler and tensioner.

Tip:
Coat first 2 or 3 thread of the bolt that holds in the tensioner pulley assembly with 102 or 103 FIPG.

I pull all spark plugs. This makes turning crank much easy, which you will do in final test to make sure you've time properly.
I like the crank shaft cleaned and greased also the inner part of harmonic balance (HB). This way you can take HB on and off easily, using it to turn crank.

 

[2001LC]

Don't forget the two little pieces of plastic (Timing belt cover spacer & Gasket). Mice get in here when missing. Mice will take out a belt. I put a dab of FIPG on bottom of cover to hole gasket in place. Make assembly easier.

 

[2001LC]

You find some more useful stuff on install starting around post #134 here Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration)

 

[medtro]

Forgive me, but this is totally new. I think that I have the timing belt gear on correctly. The notch in the gear is ligned up with the bump on the engine.

It is difficult to get the cam gears to stop perfectly when trying to lign up the line on the gear with the line next to the T on the housing.

The cam gears wants to continue to rotate to the next resting position.

Am I just sort of balancing it in that position untill I get the belt on?

Loan a Timing Gear Holding Kit from O'reilly Auto Parts. This should help if you don't have helper.

 

[abuck99]

You're fine. In-fact Toyota changed the procedure and rightly so. They once had put on the lower cover and harmonic balance, which blocked our view of belt marks at crank.

Here is picture from 2007 FSM. You can see that they now actually tell us to set LH (diver side) cam 1/2 tooth forward of mark and RH cam 1 tooth forward. Also see picture in post #125, notice cams forward of mark.

They also now have us put belt on before tension. This works much better, as we don't fight the belt so much. I actual put belt on then install idler, followed be tensioner. This way I don't fight tension in belt. But I do have belt move around on me. One solution, if you don't have 4 hands, is clip/clamp belt (lightly) in position on sprockets as yo install LH idler and tensioner.

Tip:
Coat first 2 or 3 thread of the bolt that holds in the tensioner pulley assembly with 102 or 103 FIPG.

I pull all spark plugs. This makes turning crank much easy, which you will do in final test to make sure you've time properly.
I like the crank shaft cleaned and greased also the inner part of harmonic balance (HB). This way you can take HB on and off easily, using it to turn crank.

View attachment 1871061 View attachment 1871062

This 1/2 tooth / 1 tooth install variation; is that specific to VVT?
This is another confusing variation to a relativey straight forward procedure. I think this makes 4 different FSM variations for 98-07 4.7 motors for installing the belt.

The right cam gear on mine was just slightly past the mark, while the left cam gear was almost spot on.

 

[2001LC]

It is the VVT procedure. But it doesn't really matter, here's why IMHO:

First if anything we need to take more care with the VVT, out of inference concerns. VVT actuator are in neutral position (no oil pressure). So cam in much the same position as a non VVT. Or in other-words, valve in same position/protrusion. With the non VVT, no one has found interference on the bench. By that I mean, guys have turned the crank 360 degrees with belt off without interference. I have also done this a on a VVT engine, but left cams near the "marks". So I'm not concerned with interference on the non VVT engine with cam resting near the marks. So we've that concern out of the way IMHO.

So what we're untimely concerned with is the timing marks being dead on, once belt has full tension on it.

Keys are: Belt marks must dead be on the crank and cam marks. The way I start with one idler off and tensioner out, belt has a lot of slack. #1 cylinder at TDC (Top dead center) with crank timing marks aligned. With cam on the mark or only off timing mark by 1/2 or 1 tooth is not issue at this time with belt slack. But belt marks must be dead on all sprocket marks. Then once idler installed belt slack is taken up. Then tensioner installed and retainer pin removed, putting full tensions on belt. Belt will pull/turn back cams (may need to back-off CCW the crank a few teeth, then turn CW a few teeth to get tension in direction of travel) to see alignment marks dead on. At this point, all marks including belt marks will be dead on, which is the goal.

We then test to make sure we have it all set dead on. We do this be turning crank (spark plugs out makes this so much easier) 720 degrees (two full revolution) until crank on the mark (sprocket mark is aligned with timing mark on oil pump). At which point both cams should be dead on the marks. The belt mark will not line up any more, but that is fine they've done their job.

Of course you can use the method in 98-05 FSM which has lower timing cover on and you turn back the cam a bit.

But I've never like that I can no longer see the belt marks on crank sprocket/mark on oil pump this old way. If I jump a tooth on crank during assemble, I don't no until the 720 degree test spin. Nor do I like that I must fight the belt with this method. Also the timing cover being plastic and old may have zero off a MM or two, which makes seem belt stretched (marks not dead on).

I can't say for sure but it seems Toyota as they wrote the FSM for the VVT. They made the processes a little easier and less likely to error. They sure made the picture of timing mark vs that "T" clear.