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I hate throwing a wrench into this,,, but,,, I just don't see a need for brighter headlamps.. I log over 130 thousand miles a year and there is nothing more irritating than those blinding headlights coming at you, or behind you.. They ought to be illegal for use on public roadways... The best upgrade, if you really need to see more, is a good set of 100 watt white fog beams aimed low and wide.. For off road? The options are endless for trail illumination... It's just my humble opinion, but the best upgrade for stock low beam lamps is to leave them stock...
How much more power? It's a simple test, plug in the stock wires, test, plug in the aftermarket and test, publish the results. Every time we have tested, the factory system delivered more voltage, so have removed several aftermarket harnesses. The good part is they sell very quickly here, likely because old myths never die here?
Ah,, to 90 % of all stereo audio equipment, monster cables are a waste... For those of us that enjoy state of the art audio, the monster cables make a huge difference...I also went down the HIR path last year and was immediately pleased with the noticeable results (use the correct low and high lamps, using the high lamps as low-beam replacements is plain rude to oncoming traffic and makes you look like nothing better than a hillbilly). I don't have anything useful to share concerning LEDs as I have no experience with them.
I also appreciate challenging whether an aftermarket harness yields measurable results....."facts are our friends" as our former CEO consistently reminded us. Until data supports the marketing, it's just marketing (Monster audio/video cables come to mind.....).
Monster cables aren't high end, they have a high end price. Try Tara labs or any number of
I shall,, I'll be upgrading my Walshes in a couple of years with their rebuild kits and I'll look into different options.. Always up for audiophile advice
May be someone more schooled on the subject like @george_tlc can provide can explain but from my perspective strictly measuring voltage is only part of the equation. Power (watts) is the voltage multiplied by the current. So if the current is higher, which a larger wire size would allow, may yield more power at a lower voltage. I would also like to know the specifics of how you measured voltage. Was it directly across the bulb which negates any other resistance in the circuit or just the positive to ground?
Shennanigans! This is directly from the link you posted:
"it does not have a blacked-out tip, which means it should not be used in road going headlamp or fog lamp designs that don't have a bulb shield completely covering at least the top half of the front of the bulb"
... Adding a Slee harness reduced the minor fluctuations present on the factory wiring and enabled a more consistent quality light. ...
@Tools R Us gross, I think your FJ just threw up !
I`m in Kansas. I wanna see `em!When your 130k miles brings you through Kansas stop in and drive my rig in the dark. The low beams are terrible and a real safety concern. They are getting swapped out at the turn of the year. You probably just have really good vision !
Voltage measured at the bulb connector, then measured at the battery and compared. Amps measured close to the connector with an inductive probe. Believe it or not, this wasn't my first time using a meter, one of our previous projects: