So lets help Clint build his front diff.

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So pulling the front diff out again suspecting a shattered crown wheel and pinion after a good night out in the sand dunes, but something a little different when getting the centre out today.
The pin that holds the spider gears normally in my case a lunch box locker has snapt into 3 pieces somehow,
This has let the ends out and get in the way of the pinion gear and chewing all the ends of tue teeth off.
The crown wheel is somehow in perfect condition.
I have a few questions I need help with regarding the shims that come out from the 2 bolts on the top of the king pin (turning) bearings.how do you no what shims to put in , in my Toyota rebuild kits there's a fair few different size shims?
Also the right hand side front swivel hub was leaking , the iner axel seal seemed un worn how do they leak, just old outer seals not holding up.?
Now for the pics

From the left hand side , seems to have had some serious moisture or water to cause the surface rust
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Clean with wire brush?

Looks like the inside of a old sewer drain, all that rusty looking snot wiped out
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Some of the pins in the cv bearing were missing , and dry as you can see

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The grease is quite perished and sloppy , would this thinness cause it to seep out the back seals onto my rim
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This is the "back" seal im talking about it's seeping out from on the rhs. ( this is the lhs one )
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They both cleaned up good, but there is still a bit of surface rusty like grim on the back were the seal swivels over , should this be spotless shiny clean?
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This is out of the lhs the dry side , this is the cv shaft bearing carrier but crumpled when getting it out.
What's the groves in the thing on the left for ?
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All brand new genuine Toyota seals and bearings :D

Shims! These are all the Tojo shims you get in the kit,
Some are 50 some are 20 what's the go with them?
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Hard to see but all the ends are smashed off
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Hmm little pin let big pin go then slide out and smashed pinion teeth

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Was a mission to hit the pins back in to slide the crown gear off

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You can see the rhs of the pic the locker and diff centre damage from the pin

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Good old 45 series front diff next to tiny 79 series front diff
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Any help and chat muchly appreciated.
 
I was wondering if the bolt that retains the cross pin was still in place, but from the breaking point of the center pin it looks like the locker sheared the cross pin in three.

Was their something free in the diff that caused the damage to the ring and pinion there?
 
Last edited:
cody c said:
I was wondering if the bolt that retains the cross pin was still in place, but from the breaking point of the center pin it looks like the locker sheared it off.

Was their something free in the diff that caused the damage to the ring and pinion there?


I'm not to sure I'm trying to think how it all works in conjunction with the pin,locker,axels etc to wether like you said if something jammed in there and caused it to bind up and snap or if it was just my right foot on the go pedal.?
 
why don't you look for an 80 series front diff with a factory e locker.....
There has got to be a spot to pick one up in Perth.

Cheaper than a new ring, pinion, locker and setting it up.... Just a thought. And you would have a locker!
 
Pighead said:
Like an oil slinger, in reverse...

I'm not sure what a oil slinger does?
 
ForealBoreal said:
why don't you look for an 80 series front diff with a factory e locker.....
There has got to be a spot to pick one up in Perth.

Cheaper than a new ring, pinion, locker and setting it up.... Just a thought. And you would have a locker!

The 80s have a different spline and ratio and oem lockers are rare as hens teeth in Aus, no one really gives two s***s about them untill they need them, then it's to late so they get the airlockers installed.

But speaking of rare as hens teeth, a front 105 series oem locker complete center unused came up for sale but I'd already spent my $ on my new gears and stuff to rebuild my old centre. Such a shame That 105s have been same spline and ratio as 79s.
 
So has any one used the Toyota sst knuckle gauge or messed around with the steering shims?
 
Does anyone know if the front diff carrier from a 75 series will work with a 79 series- lunchbox locker and crown wheel gear... Then fit and work in a 79 front diff centre
 
The 79 front diff can be built stronger by installing a solid pinion spacer and a couple of other setup tricks. I think locktup4x4 in W.A sells the gear to do it. Might pay to ask them or a cluey diff repairer.
 
Does anyone know if the front diff carrier from a 75 series will work with a 79 series- lunchbox locker and crown wheel gear... Then fit and work in a 79 front diff centre


Should be identical to each other (by the appearance).:rolleyes:
Can u show up your broken carrier? :confused:
 
wongtsenhin said:
Should be identical to each other (by the appearance).:rolleyes:
Can u show up your broken carrier? :confused:

I've located a 2nd hand brand new carrier from a hzj 79 the box was a little dusty and I've got a brand new carrier from a vdj 79 for a carton, there fairly different to each other . Who woulda thought!

In one of pics I've posted above you can see the damage were the pin has snap in 3 and slide out and smashed a chunk of the carrier.
Should get the diff back together next week.
 
herbs said:
The 79 front diff can be built stronger by installing a solid pinion spacer and a couple of other setup tricks. I think locktup4x4 in W.A sells the gear to do it. Might pay to ask them or a cluey diff repairer.

When calling around average diff shops looking for a supplier of gears as soon as I mention solid spacer they wernt to interested and thought it was a waste of time. When I found a drag racing company that build diffs and gear boxes for drag cars etc they recommend a solid spacer.
I've been doing some serious comp truck research and all the cruisers and patrols seem to be running the solid spacer.
I got the company I bought the gears off to supply a solid spacer and shims. So let's see how it pans out
 

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