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scrapdaddy said:
Chris,

I haven't concidered it, but really like the 55's heater.
Click to expand...

It's iconic to the period and I do, too, but can find no way to maintain it in the OE location without needing to raise the roof 2", considering the buckets I've looked at.

The 60/80 heater would fit and allow the headroom requirement or exploring the possibility of relocating the OE heater in between the front buckets.

Running lines external the tub was just a thought after crawling around on the 80 to measure the heater. I dislike the overall design of the 80s hosing for the rear heater, since it can fail....but most at 18-19 years, but my thinking was eliminating the additional radiant heat source in cab, plus eliminating the hoses, allowing for a form fitting flooring.

Strict restos are much easier......I think.
 
Delancy said:
It's iconic to the period and I do, too, but can find no way to maintain it in the OE location without needing to raise the roof 2", considering the buckets I've looked at.
Click to expand...
Ditch the factory bench brackets and install each bucket independently, you'll have plenty of room for the heater between them and can keep them lower ;)

Tucker
 
That's a good point that Tucker brought up. I can't do anything to mine until I order the seats. I can make it work, just need to play with it some.

Chris, you could run the heater lines under the floor, but in the winter the extra heat off the hoses is welcomed. Plus two holes in the floor, that need to be sealed good.
 
I've shifted gears, ( pun intended ) and decided to keep the transmission cover stock looking. The more I welded up the add on, I just didn't like the look, but that means I had to bend the twin sticks to get them to fit.

I need your opinion: Do the twin sticks, for the transfer case, look alright at different heights. I seem to like it. I know it's petty, but what the heck!

Sitting around at night, I started cleaning up the switches, like everybody does and thought to take one apart. Not much to it and makes for a like new switch. There was alot of rust powder and crud in the two I've taken apart.

Pictures!

IMG_2077.jpg


IMG_2079.jpg


IMG_2076.jpg
 
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At first i wasn't sure if i would like the sticks being a different heights, but after seeing the picture, i think it looks great! If the sticks were opposite (outside one taller) it would be a different story.

i think your idea of keep the top plate stock was a great choice.

Looking good as always Ron!
 
tucker74 said:
Ditch the factory bench bracket
Click to expand...

Don't get much option on this. PO did on behalf of, even though of prefer the bench bracket as a starting point over what I've got.

If I can find the seats I believe I want with arm rests, will mount the rear heater in the center.

If I can't, will address at that time, but know the 60/80 heater will fit perfectly in the footprint of independent buckets, there's perfect placement for heat shielded (to ensure longevity) heater lines on the outside of cab, and the 80 floor pan grommet (??) for lines to pads through will work.

I put a little thought into it......thankfully, very preliminary so I've time to change my mind.

tucker74 said:
Looks good to me ;)

Tucker
Click to expand...

X2.

Personally like better than the alternative.
 
Thanks Guys,

I think the shifters will work, like that. I need to weld them in and then everything gets powder coated.

Chris,

If a guy wanted to, he could solder some copper lines for the underneath heater lines and use screw on bulk head fittings, for a leak free connection. Now you got me thinking, it would keep the footwell clean.
 
Pablo,

good thought. Although, I wouldn't be shifting the tranfer case too much, it's better to have them closer to the driver. :steer:
 
scrapdaddy,

Did you ever figure out how to increase the RPM on the motor for the PTO?

When i worked with the Tow truck company we controlled the RPM of the motor with setting the Cruise control. Hope this helps
 
what resistance is in the fly by wire circuit at 1800 rpms?(or whatever terminal speed is for pto) OR what is the resistance spread from idle thru say 2.5K? a custom controller could be built with a dial on the dash and a switch to activate it, wired in parallel (after the switch is activated that is) to the throttle circuit back to the ecu...? our old boom truck had a machine or truck switch after the PTO switch that ramped the motor to 1600 or so and kept it there; probably a simple resistor in that circuit...yours could have a potentiometer to set the desired speed within a given resistance range...or you could do a mechanical hand throttle cable tied to the pedal holding it at any given position....an electro-mechanical fly by wire...
 
12VDC servo motor....
 
Project Rusty Gold said:
scrapdaddy,

Did you ever figure out how to increase the RPM on the motor for the PTO?

When i worked with the Tow truck company we controlled the RPM of the motor with setting the Cruise control. Hope this helps
Click to expand...

Rusty Gold,

No, I've been more focused on just getting it up and running. That will be addressed, but down the line.

Thanks for thinking about it, I need alot of help. :)
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
what resistance is in the fly by wire circuit at 1800 rpms?(or whatever terminal speed is for pto) OR what is the resistance spread from idle thru say 2.5K? a custom controller could be built with a dial on the dash and a switch to activate it, wired in parallel (after the switch is activated that is) to the throttle circuit back to the ecu...? our old boom truck had a machine or truck switch after the PTO switch that ramped the motor to 1600 or so and kept it there; probably a simple resistor in that circuit...yours could have a potentiometer to set the desired speed within a given resistance range...or you could do a mechanical hand throttle cable tied to the pedal holding it at any given position....an electro-mechanical fly by wire...
Click to expand...

Lambcrusher,

You keep talking like that and I'm coming down there and hiring you to wire it up. :) To be honest, I have no idea about the resistance issues, but I do have an old choke cable, with the cool knob, that could be hooked up to work as the throttle cable :hmm:

Thanks Man, you're always thinking.
 
Oh my, this is a beautiful thread. Definitely a motivator scrapdaddy. I can't wait to see when it's all done and put together. I'm thinking I'll be using the same materials as you did: LizardSkin sound control and ceramic insulation along with a layer of bedliner as a topcoat. How many gallons of each did you go through? Keep up the good work!

Jacob
 
Jacob,

How much did I use? That's a hard one to answer. Many gallons! :)

If you're just doing the inside floor, then get a two gallon pail each of the Lizard Skin products, that's the only size it comes in.

As far as the Monstaliner, it comes in a one gallon can, but is a two part product, which has to be mixed and used that day. One gal. should be enough for a couple good coats.

Each product will need it's own spray gun, one water soluble and one isn't. You can roll the Monstaliner, I haven't tried that way.

It wraps up alot of money and time, but well worth it, in my opinion.
 
scrapdaddy said:
Jacob,

How much did I use? That's a hard one to answer. Many gallons! :)

If you're just doing the inside floor, then get a two gallon pail each of the Lizard Skin products, that's the only size it comes in.

As far as the Monstaliner, it comes in a one gallon can, but is a two part product, which has to be mixed and used that day. One gal. should be enough for a couple good coats.

Each product will need it's own spray gun, one water soluble and one isn't. You can roll the Monstaliner, I haven't tried that way.

It wraps up alot of money and time, but well worth it, in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Okay well that's probably what I'll end up doing. I wanted a way to do some sound deadening and heat sealing but I really wanted to do a bedliner for my floor. Sounds like Lizard Skin will be the route I take and considering doing the roof in it also along with some dynamat. Do you know how the Lizard Skins products compare to other options like dynamat? I'd definitely like to do it right the first time so I don't regret not doing it later and having to go through the trouble of adding it in if I didn't. Thanks for all the help and information Scrapdaddy. Love the build, I can only hope that my pig turns into something of quality as good as yours.
 
Jacob,

Thanks for the uplifting complements, they keep me going.

I'm no expert on all the sound deadeners, but I wouldn't spray the Lizard Skin or anything, over any stick on mats. I would be afraid of the weight pulling on the sticky back material. Maybe it would work if you stuck the Dynamat on after you sprayed the LZ.

I believe the first thing to do is get all the old stuff off. It takes alot of work. Once that's done and the headliner is off, treat the gutter/roof seams, from the inside, with a rust converter, get one with a flexible hose and spray the heck out of it. I then sprayed Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating, also. Do what you can to stop any further rusting.

Since I'm not useing a headliner, I wanted a nice finished look, so Here's my lineup:

One coat Zero Rust, brushed on. Don't be afraid to stick the brush in the gutter/seam pocket. can't hurt.

Two coats Sound Control--Lizard Skin

Two coats Ceramic Dampener--Lizard Skin

@ four coats of color tinted Monstaliner

Good luck with it.
 
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