- Thread starter
- #4,121
Jim, this axle housing is set up to use an early IFS 4runner or pickup front hub, etc., so I'm guessing I would need that bushing in the spindle.
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- Thread starter scrapdaddy
- Start date
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The shaft cant move around like the front, it's fixed on both ends.
If you have that bushing in place and have "ANY" misalignment in your housing it will cause excessive heat and will do this to your axle.
NO....
This picture explains it better than I can do with a bunch of extra words...
- Thread starter
- #4,124
Alright, I'll do some more checking around. I would of thought Front Range knew what they were building, but who knows. Thanks Jim for catching this.
I would never assume that, I've been given bad advise more than not.
EVERY TIME I call a vender and start to tell them about a problem I have with their part they all say " We've been selling that part for XXX years and this is the FIRST time anyone has had that issue" .......
I have no opinion on Front Range and everything they have told you may very well be true and I could be the one that's full of BS so do your own research and find what's best for you.
FYI Scraps I machined mine for seals the second time around and converted back to grease.
www.sor.com
Rear Axle - Full Floating - Specter Off-Road
Toyota Land Cruiser parts since 1983. From the oldest FJ25 and FJ40 to FJ45 BJ40 FJ55 FJ60 BJ60 FJ62 FJ70 BJ70 FJ80 and 100 Series, SOR has the largest selection of top quality new and used OEM and aftermarket Land Cruiser parts in stock in the world. Specializing in restoration parts for both...
- Thread starter
- #4,127
Ok, I got this cleared up. Thanks to J Mack, I made a call to Yotamasters and they said Front Range used an inner axle tube seal ( by the diff. ) to keep the oil in the pumpkin, which I have on mine. Front Range changed at some point and now uses a seal housing and seal where the brass bushing went instead of inside the tube. Yotamasters checked the fit of a new brass bushing on a RVC shaft, I could hear the rattle between the two over the phone, so not tight at all. That's why Front Range just left the bushing in there on mine. Yotamasters believes the brass bushing wouldn't have caused my axle failure. So, I ordered a set of seal housings from Front Range and will cross my fingers while I wait. The way I have it now is fine, but I'd like to replace that bushing with something that helps seal out the oil.
Big shout out to J Mack for picking up on that and to Yotamasters for taking the time with me, pulling out parts and checking fit, answering questions and just being helpful, right up there with Kurt and Georg.
Big shout out to J Mack for picking up on that and to Yotamasters for taking the time with me, pulling out parts and checking fit, answering questions and just being helpful, right up there with Kurt and Georg.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Glad to see some progress here!
- Thread starter
- #4,129
While waiting for more parts, I want to replace the hydro boost fitting we were talking about in Rush's build. I bought several different sizes, just in case I guessed wrong. What's the correct way to install this fitting and should I use a thread sealant on the o ring threads? The washer behind the o ring is fixed, so I'm guessing you tighten down the fitting, then run the jam nut up against the washer? How much smoke do you put on tightening the o ring?
Everything you ever wanted to know and more.....
ORB Fittings Explained: From Selection to Setup - Hose Box
Discover the intricacies of ORB fittings. Uncover their varied types, key applications, and gain insights into proper installation
hosebox.com
If for some reason you just wanted an answer to your question. Spin it in as far as it will go by hand and get it pointed in the correct direction then tighten the nut with a wrench snug'ish (not farmer tight) we just need it tight and let the O-ring do it's job.
- Thread starter
- #4,131
Thank You!
- Thread starter
- #4,132
Oh Boy, started to read all that and realized I screwed in an NPT threaded fitting in the hydro boost, so if it came with the straight threads of the ORB fitting, then I'm out of luck. She's not leaking at this point, so maybe I should leave it alone.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Got mine in
Gonna start working on the rest of them here before long. One of the pressure ports is 3/8” inverted flare and the other appears to have metric threads. I plugged it using a (I think) #12 DIN plug (~18mm). Does this sound right?
Gonna start working on the rest of them here before long. One of the pressure ports is 3/8” inverted flare and the other appears to have metric threads. I plugged it using a (I think) #12 DIN plug (~18mm). Does this sound right?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #4,134
Rush, none of what I used were metric. I just used fittings or adapters that I had on hand and worked. Sorry I'm not any help on this.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
YA NO JOHNNY OVERTORQUEEverything you ever wanted to know and more.....
ORB Fittings Explained: From Selection to Setup - Hose Box
Discover the intricacies of ORB fittings. Uncover their varied types, key applications, and gain insights into proper installation
If for some reason you just wanted an answer to your question. Spin it in as far as it will go by hand and get it pointed in the correct direction then tighten the nut with a wrench snug'ish (not farmer tight) we just need it tight and let the O-ring do it's job.
! Ron 
- Thread starter
- #4,136
I was always taught to " tighten it 'til it smokes ".
I think I gave all my spare Hydro boost units away so I don't have anything here to check and trying to guess from memory isn't really going to be helpful so I hit an internet search and this is what I came up with.
Hydratech Braking Systems :: Hose, Fittings and Adapter Listings
Hydratech Braking Systems :: Hose, Fittings and Adapter Listings
www.hydratechbraking.com
From Hydratech's site. This lists all the outlet fitting sizes.
HYDRATECH 9103 AN-6 BANJO FITTING SET
* 2 Piece Design 5/16-24 O-ring Male to 3/8 Male Hose Barb Return Line Adapter
* Surface Seal Type Adapter with O-ring Seal
* 18mm x 1.5 Metric to AN-6 Male High Pressure Inlet Port Banjo Fitting
* 16mm x 1.5 Metric to AN-6 Male High Pressure Outlet Port Banjo Fitting
* Zinc Dichromate Plated Mild Steel Banjo Bolts and Fittings
* Fits most all 1980 and newer Bendix Type I and Type II hydraulic brake assist units
Hydro-Boost Low Pressure Return Spitter to 6AN Banjo Assembly (w/ washers)
Hydro-Boost Low Pressure Spitter Return Banjo to 6 AN Adapter
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Fantastic resources! It looks like there can be many different fitting combinations and between these two sites, there’s an adapter to -AN6 for all possibilities!I think I gave all my spare Hydro boost units away so I don't have anything here to check and trying to guess from memory isn't really going to be helpful so I hit an internet search and this is what I came up with.
Hydratech Braking Systems :: Hose, Fittings and Adapter Listings
Hydratech Braking Systems :: Hose, Fittings and Adapter Listingswww.hydratechbraking.com
From Hydratech's site. This lists all the outlet fitting sizes.
HYDRATECH 9103 AN-6 BANJO FITTING SET
* 2 Piece Design 5/16-24 O-ring Male to 3/8 Male Hose Barb Return Line Adapter
* Surface Seal Type Adapter with O-ring Seal
* 18mm x 1.5 Metric to AN-6 Male High Pressure Inlet Port Banjo Fitting
* 16mm x 1.5 Metric to AN-6 Male High Pressure Outlet Port Banjo Fitting
* Zinc Dichromate Plated Mild Steel Banjo Bolts and Fittings
* Fits most all 1980 and newer Bendix Type I and Type II hydraulic brake assist units
Hydro-Boost Low Pressure Return Spitter to 6AN Banjo Assembly (w/ washers)
Hydro-Boost Low Pressure Spitter Return Banjo to 6 AN Adapterwww.powerbrakeservice.net
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Sum bitch! There's a lot going on in there!Oh, I've been staying busy with other messes. I had to replace that gray solenoid on the right and while in there, redid some things. That led to pulling the whole dash apart. Oops, no picture of that mess. Speedhut sent me some new gauges, now my speedo only goes to 120 not 160, guess I'll have to let off the skinny pedal.The fuel gauge was acting wonky, so they replaced that also. A new rocker switch for the air compressor (and fixed an air leak), which is run by that new solenoid. All good now.
All I wanted was to go camping.
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