Builds SLOW 71 (1 Viewer)

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Chris,


I run the beads in two vehicles, the 5500 Dodge and my M37 Military truck. The big Dodge, I've had all over the country, not four wheeling, just highway and no problems. The M37 has huge tires, but used on the farm, still no problems.


It was my understanding that the beads do work better, on the road. I really don't know any more than that. I'll try them and see. I just never liked wheel weights.
 
PabloCruise said:
Very cool! I thought Stockton Wheel could take drum brake wheel centers and make a wide set of wheels?

The wide ones look awesome w/ Cruiser hub caps in place.

Nice work!
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Pablo,


They can, just something about the ones with clips, they can't do.


Honestly, I can take or leave the hubcaps. Wheels will be gray, if that helps.
 
scrapdaddy said:
My wheels came in today, from Stockton Wheel. I had them make 5 wheels, 16x7, 6-5.5 on center with a 3.5" backspace. These are raw steel and I will powder coat them later. The test fit went good, but had to clean up the caliper casting, as the welds on the wheel rubbed some.


I bought some VW type 1 hubcap clips, hoping that they could be welded on the wheels, but as you see, they would need alittle attention, to make them work. The VW clip is on the left. The Landcruiser clip is heavier and longer. I'm really not a hubcap guy, on my offroad trucks, so not sure what I'm going to do. Not a lot of options.


I'm using Dyna Beads for the balancing and Surevalves for the air valves.


Tires ( I think ) will be BF Goodrich KM2. 255/85/16


I've been doing a lot of little things, not worthy of talking about.
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Ron, everything you do is worthy of talking about. Don't hold back keep us updated.


Thanks Bob.
 
Bob,


I don't know about that. I spent two days reworking and making new brackets, to mount a FJ60 air cleaner housing. Not too exciting. Got some neat stuff coming, though.
 
Ron, you and Chris are a bit ahead of me on your builds, but I've been planning ahead on my interior and thought I'd throw in my plans. It doesn't add a thing mind you since it's very similar to what's been talked about, but don't we all like to be included!?

I'm planning on cutting the dash out an going custom. I'm not necessarily going to recreate the stock look, but I want it to look like it belongs if that makes any since. I'm going with aluminum powder coated black. I'll be putting an old air system in which will be tied into the dash (which old air did you end up going with by the way?). I'll also have a ham radio in addition to my am/fm radio.

The big obstacle I'll have on the dash is integrating all the friggin switches i'm going to have in a layout that isn't confusing and doesn't dominate the interior. I don't have a final count yet, but I'll have compressor, front and rear arb, off/on/reverse 3 way switch for rear bumper lights, auxillary tank, tank heater, filter heater, injection line heater (for wvo), and i'm sure at least one or two more.

I'm going with matching powder coated aluminum for the door and cargo panels as well as for the rear drawer system. I plan to pick a single low gloss matte black powder coat for all interior and exterior details.

For the roof braces, I'm going with a full roll cage and hoping that it can be tied into the roof for supports. It will all serve to hide my cable routing.

I like your wheels. i haven't decided yet where i'm going with rims except that they'll be matte black, 17x9's and I'll be putting 35 or 37 (still undecided) Toyo M/T's.
 
Rodney,


Sounds well thought out. I just talked to Old Air, today and going to order the Hurricane 2000. I'm only getting the inside kit and buying my own condenser and drier. It will be a first for me, putting this together, so I have to learn a lot.


With the dash, I was trying to keep the stock heater slides, but thinking now it won't work, so that means remaking the whole center dash, over. Always something to think about. :)


When the unit comes in, I'll post some pictures of how it mounts and how I'm planning on running the lines.


Can't wait to see how you do your dash, keep it going.
 
scrapdaddy said:
When the unit comes in, I'll post some pictures of how it mounts and how I'm planning on running the lines.
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Excellent, I was at a loss for which to pic, so having you as a guinea pig will be a big help! I'm still a good 6 weeks from needing it, but I want to order it early so i don't have to sit around waiting on it
 
TuffMudder said:
Ron, you and Chris
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This ain't right, Rodney, as I don't deserve billing in the same breath, considering that I've outsourced where Ron truly is a craftsman, even though he won't admit to it.

There are people outside of this forum that do not frequent Mud or know what Mud is, that know exactly what I mean when saying "scrapdaddy style", so I'm watching from the same cheap seats you are.

The dash debacle has had me considering all different configurations on the '76, down to cutting out the steel and sectioning in a modern version, mostly for the why not factor, I guess, since I can't find a real reason the utilitarianism of the OE won't work.

Even thought about a 60 or aftermarket AC to interest to a mid nineties Toyota truck dash, which is the only Toyota that appears to fit, but it'd be a monstrous task, gauges pose issue since it's a panel in modern, not individual round gauges.

Know Ron's running exposed, which probably makes the most sense, but if building on to attach to the OE steel, think the benefits of fiberglass may be the cleanest way to approach, especially transitioning around heat/AC controls from a modern vehicle.

Anyhow, something to consider.

Worked (nagged) with Jim at OTRATTW for many months on custom Carling Contura rockers that he can now custom etch, completely cover the bright LEDs, and fit the Carling offering that has a back lit feature.

At that time, my intent was specifically creating a new panel for the FJC, one that appeared OE, but since, have seen all kinda of panels and configurations that are very cool.

Something to possibly consider for y'alls switches, if nothing else has yet. To give an idea of what's possible.



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Lol, love the spy mode switch. I'll have to check them out. As I mentioned I'm going to have switches out the wazoo.

You and I are in similar boats. I'm in charge of r&d, procurement and all scut work while I have a friend, Jessi, who does all the welding and craftsmanship. Though I am going to try my hand at some rudimentary welding on a related project this weekend.

Let me know if you end up going fiberglass. I'd be interested in seeing how it turns out. It's not quite the look I'm after and with an aluminum dash it should be relatively easy for me to integrate everything and have a finished dash that looks like it belongs (I think).


Sent from my iPhone
 
Figured this was a good day for pondering. Let me know if you think some of this will work. I got the filter canister mounted that Mel Lowe sent me ( Thanks again Mel! ) and the battery tray. I put the air intake, ( which still needs powder coating ) in the open hole on the inner fender and blocked off the vent opening, by the firewall. Thinking it will draw air down the inside of the fender. You can see how I drilled some air holes in the support bracket.


How about this idea. I still have to mount the AC condenser to the radiator and need to find a place for the power steering cooler. If I put it in front of the condenser, I would have to drill some holes for the lines and it would be getting cramped up front, so why not use the driver's side vent, on the fender and mount the cooler there. Prefect fit, no. No holes to drill, as the lines could run right up the inner fender. I think it would get plenty of air flow.


Last one for today. I've got an alum. radiator, should I get an alum. condenser or stay with steel. Found an alum. one that fits good.


Thanks for your input!

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I've been really dreading today's work, cutting the hole for the E-brake. I'm using all FJ60 stuff, so the only place I had was next to the driver's seat. I know some of you have already done this, but what a bad feeling that was, cutting the hole.


Got it all mounted and then thought about Bob's scuff plates. Sorry Bob, but I have to trim alittle of the plate, to make it fit. One of many compromises of this build.

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scrapdaddy said:
I've been really dreading today's work, cutting the hole for the E-brake. I'm using all FJ60 stuff, so the only place I had was next to the driver's seat. I know some of you have already done this, but what a bad feeling that was, cutting the hole.


Got it all mounted and then thought about Bob's scuff plates. Sorry Bob, but I have to trim alittle of the plate, to make it fit. One of many compromises of this build.
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Ron, apology not necessary. Its all part of the game. PIGs looking good. Getting closer and closer. :)


Thanks Bob.
 
Looking great Ron. Really loving the look of the bedliner on your interior
 
scrapdaddy said:
I've been really dreading today's work, cutting the hole for the E-brake.
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I know the feeling! I hated doing it to mine. Looking good.
 
NikP,


I've got more to do, but that one was a do or die thing. hard to fix a hole in the floor!
 
Yeah I've got a few holes I missed before I painted the underside. I could weld them but I've found the raptor liner is rather flammable. I'm lucky, they are just bolt holes so I can get away with seam sealer or something similar.
 
Pablo,


I've seen both steel and alum. Just didn't know the pros and cons of each. I thought maybe steel to help protect the alum. radiator. Alum. would cool better, though.


On the PS cooler, I might try it, I always liked the real vent openings and would like to use them. Ige sent me a set of solid ones and I have a set of open ones, so I'm covered either way.
 
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