Builds SLOW 71 (7 Viewers)

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Very nice, that should look awesome on your pig. I'm still torn on my colors. I'm pretty sure in going two tone with Cygnus white. Thinking either freeborn or possible a dark silver or a matte black. Saw a pick of that combo on my thread about 17 inch rims and really liked it


Sent from my iPhone
 
saw an FJcruiser with that same color in a parking lot at tarjhey; waived at the nice lady as she was getting out kinda like flaggin her down ( from about 20 feet away...), so I could ask what color it was; she shook her head and drove off before I could say hello:lol:; guess I couldn't/can't/don't blame her, but dang, I just wanted to know what color her cruiser was!
 
Well, as you know, I cut off the top seam and welded together. The rest will be simple as possible. A metal panel cut to fit the drivers side dash with two main gauge holes and a few small holes for the blinkers, high beam, etc.


In the center of the dash, I'll use all the stock switches, but not in the same order, as I'll be moving the light switch over also. I hope to use the stock heater slides for the new ac/heater from Old Air.


The radio hole was cut up, so I had to weld in new mounts for a plate that will hold the switches for the air lockers.


The glove box is up in the air. There will be a new panel cut for the door and might house the computer for the motor, if I can get the cables to reach.


On each side of the dash, where the light and ignition switches were, will be defrost vents for the side windows.


My goal is to leave the dash as stock looking as possible, but be all metal, old school look. Nothing fancy, function over form.
 
Just paint on the dash. On the doors, I might be changing directions. BobM's alum. ones for the cargo panels, but seeing the new padded ones, I may bend my rules alittle. That's something that can be changed out, if not liked.


I think powder coated alum. will work better for what I want to do in the cargo area. The compressor with a control panel for inverter, plugs, etc. and hopefully the spare on the other side.


I've been working on the roof supports for two weeks and have aways to go. I built five different forms out of plywood, in order to bend square tubing to fit. Not working too well, I'll get it and I've got time now that I was bumped back with the painting.
 
My concern is the vinyl door cards may not go well with a painted steel dash, so if going that direction, may alter the plan and paint door panels to match the dash.

If AL, could cut and paint the gauge surround and glovebox door, to maintain continuity.

Could paint the heater/AC same as dash, and it may look like it came that way....

Hmmm. One step forward and ten back. Hahaha.
 
Ron

I've been following your build from the beginning. If I could create half of what you're doing, I'd be ecstatic.

On the roof supports, I too am in need of replacing some collapsed supports, I had an idea.

Could you put in tensioned ribs, much like the bottom of a canoe, but with flat stock metal?

http://www.jonsbushcraft.com/images/canoe2/diagram2.jpg

I've not tried it as yet, but I'm thinking I will soon. First I would test fit with wood pieces then once I had the right length(s), then cut the metal. Don't know what thickness metal yet.

Just a thought.
 
Justchillinout,


That's kind of what I'm trying to do, without the tension. I'll have five supports, all bent to conform to the roof, which is different at all five places. In the middle of the roof, I'll have two tubes running length wise, which will be tied into the five.


That way there will be places for dome lights, etc. and give more support. Using flat stock would work, but I don't think strong enough. We'll have to pad or seam seal the supports to the roof, so no rattles. I made angled mounts with a captured nut, that run down each side and the five supports will bolt to them.


I'll take some pictures tomorrow.


Chris all alum. or steel panels will be powder coated to match the dash. What I need to find is a place that has one of those water jets.

Side note: Back in the thirties, my father worked at St.Louis Boat and Motor. He made wooden canoes and some with canvas skin. Thank God, he went to the brewery after that, like his Father and me!
 
Glad to know you don't think I'm a lunatic for thinking about ribbing the roof.

I really think that with thick enough stock (but not so thick that you couldn't bend it by hand) and enough of them (spaced about 4" - 6" apart), the roof would be plenty strong.

I am very interested to see your take on it.

Jean
 
Well, the first attempt was a bust. I'm going to try heat one more time, then I'll buy a tubing bender and square die.


As far as thinking you're nuts, we're ALL nuts!, but that's the fun part.


I was told one time, while Babe Ruth was the home run king, he also had the strike out record, so let's keep swinging :)
 
Here's some bad pictures of what I'm trying to do with the roof supports.


First I made templates of the roofs contours, on cardboard, by measuring every two inches. Then I transferred that to plywood and cut out. I used two pieces @ 1 1/2" and screwed that to a 2x6 for stability. So far so good.


I then heated up a length of square tubing and tried to bend to fit, this is where it went south. The tubing gave in and bent, but I smashed the top of the square, beating it down. I didn't have it hot enough. I need a Rosebud tip, to heat the tubing quick and maybe it will bent without beating the snot out of it. I even tried putting the tubing in my outside wood furnace, but it wouldn't heat up fast enough.


The last two pictures, are the mounts that will be welded to the body down each side. the five supports will be bolted to these.


Next up will be purchasing a tubing bender and square die.


The pictures are bad, when I work this out , I'll take better ones.

IMG_2294.jpg


IMG_2296.jpg


IMG_2299.jpg


IMG_2298.jpg
 
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Chris,


That's correct. No welding to the roof. They will be just like the stock ones. Seam seal or some kind of pad, to give support, but no rattles. Mine won't even be welded to the sides, all removable.
 
Ron,

Stopped to take a gander at the OE roof ribs in the '71 parts Pig, to visualize replication, and it prompted the consideration to "build up" the member....pretty much, cutting flats in the precise arch, welding the web to the arched flats, then welding the legs to the now arched U channel.

Tedious and a lot of time consuming welding, but had me thinking that it'd be possible to box the bottom of the "hat channel" for aesthetic concerns (yes, I realize your tubing achieved that, but offering an idea....for critiquing, if nothing else).

My other idear...

I used to be involved in a lot more projects with architectural or decorative mansards on concrete tilt up walls, the substructure being what we call, "hat channel" , the same in the Pig roof.

Had a lot of rolling done for curved versions in the late nineties with one particular developer's industrial "spec" builds and used a roller in Tulsa to produce, me supplying the 16GA galvanized hat channel.

Thought I'd actually be a productive member of this family by having a bunch built, since I've been moving about 200' of material for ten years or more, but went by yesterday and was told they closed the doors in 2010, another casualty of diminished workload.

Only other option I'm familiar with has a minimum of 3/4" tubular .125 which seems overkill, plus don't think the accuracy would be close enough in such a short arch.
 
Chris,


Good ideas, for sure, but I chose the square tubing way. I wanted something that can be painted, then installed. In order to do that, I had to come up with some mounting ideas. Also, wanted to recess some dome lighting and if all else fails, I can screw up some insulation type panels, between the tubing.


Many ways to accomplish final results and this isn't over yet.
 
My wheels came in today, from Stockton Wheel. I had them make 5 wheels, 16x7, 6-5.5 on center with a 3.5" backspace. These are raw steel and I will powder coat them later. The test fit went good, but had to clean up the caliper casting, as the welds on the wheel rubbed some.


I bought some VW type 1 hubcap clips, hoping that they could be welded on the wheels, but as you see, they would need alittle attention, to make them work. The VW clip is on the left. The Landcruiser clip is heavier and longer. I'm really not a hubcap guy, on my offroad trucks, so not sure what I'm going to do. Not a lot of options.


I'm using Dyna Beads for the balancing and Surevalves for the air valves.


Tires ( I think ) will be BF Goodrich KM2. 255/85/16


I've been doing a lot of little things, not worthy of talking about.

IMG_2300.jpg


IMG_2301.jpg


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IMG_2303.jpg


IMG_2305.jpg
 
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Nice wheels....I'm with you on hubcaps.

KM2s are a great tire in the rocks. They don't chunk and they feel like they hook up better than other BFG dual purpose tires. They wear as good as any other, in my experience, being 60k on a current set that are recently up for replacement considerations.

They're loud, on road, is my only negative observation, although I find myself lulled by the "bah, wah, wah." more than irritated, anymore.

Ron,

Have you ran beads before?

A reason why a consideration?

I'll offer my unsolicited opinion, based on my limited experience and knowledge.

Had issues with a previous BFG tire selection chunking in the rocks, big chunks. The long drives home were miserable, usually on Sunday when nothing in rural America was open to balance, and usually a 200 mile drive home.

It sucked.

Stepped up to KM2s and bead locks and, after previous experience and internet reads, decided dynamic balancing made the most sense.

It does, to a point, but a less than a decent clip, offers little in the way of preventing the wobble, and it's aggravating. It may be the fact that I've aired up with Co2 and in less than ideal environments, but they'll freeze up in the inside of the tire, so some colds days take a little warming.

Now, that was on a "build" twice removed.

On the 80, went with conventional weights even with TR bead locks and BFG Krawlers, based on the previous experience. This, after coming to the conclusion that a tire that's not prone to chunking, that is street-able, along with a wheel that doesn't expose conventional weights in a precarious position that'll commonly be knocked off, benefits more at all speeds from conventional and doesn't require dynamic balancing.

My two cents.

You may have experience that's the opposite of, but they're kind of a PITA, in my opinion, and unnecessary for tires that won't be exposed to chunking situations, won't be exposed to weights being knocked off, and will see highway speeds, nor offer any benefit over conventional weights from a ride quality perspective.
 
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