Sliders: Premium vs. Budget

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Joined
Feb 11, 2013
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Location
Louisville, KY (Goshen)
Much has been made about the difference between premium sliders and budget sliders. Many of the premium offerings use a 3/16" thick 2"x3" or 2"x4" main tube with 0.125"" thick 1.75" round kickouts; whereas the budget offerings generally are 0.125" thick 1.75" round throughout. It's easy to see a difference there but how much difference does this make in the real world? I would like to hear from those with experience, as much info as you are willing to share.

Has anyone had faliures with the budget sliders? How did it happen? What was the nature of the failure?(what broke) Manufacturer welded, or DIY? Weld on or bolt on?

Same questions for the premium users.

We all use our trucks differently so I hope this will give us information to make decisions more appropriate to our individual needs. Perhaps it might even help the manufacturers who support our trucks improve products and stay profitable.

Disclaimer: I did not use specific names of manufacturers to avoid offense or misclassification, and because I would inadvertently leave some out. Budget is not used derogatorily here.
 
I think it really depends on how hard you are going to wheel your truck, what your wheeling style is and where are you going to use them (i.e. out west, mid west, east coast...etc.). I have only heard on one guy's sliders failing (Sam, aka PKP80). They were made by a local 4x4 shop in Los Angeles area. I believe they failed and folded or bent up into his rocker panel. His rig battered and dented now but at the time he was not happy about it.

I've been completely happy with my Hanna Quality sliders and would not think twice about slamming them into any rocks. I would classify myself as a moderate wheeler, slow, steady and methodical. I am out west where traction is abundant so I can wheel this way. If you wheel in trees and mud this style would never work.
 
I help my friend build sliders off and on. From personal use with my Tacoma and from seeing others. I can tell you without a doubt 2x2 or 2x3 with 1.75" .120 round is good to go, we actually use .120 square tube as well! (we don't sell many 2x3 sets)

The FJ80 wheelbase is a little shorter than my Tacoma I believe. I sat my Tacoma on both rear kickouts, tires nearly floating. I bought my sliders from a popular company. They're 1.75 .120 wall mains with 1.75 .120 kick outs, HREW. I ended up bowing the whole kick out on one side. It took a 20' stick of 2x2 to bend it back into place. My buddies with the hybrid square and round sliders we build beat on them good and they hold up awesome. Haven't heard of any failures with ours from any customers either and we've sold a LOT. Pretty decent sized player in the Tacoma market.

My opinion is go hybrid square round, make sure the legs and frame plates are beefy and include gussets.
 
ConcreteJungle broke a weld on his outrigger on his DIY George's bolt on design but it could be argued that it was rather deserved wheeling like it was his RC :lol: Otherwise they have done great.

I have a good sizeable dent and obvious bow to the outer tube on my bolt on stepsliders. I do not recall the shot(s) that did it. One spot on our local trail is suspect but it wasnt too hard a hit..... but you have to remember these are heavy trucks.

In the SE sometimes you dont have full control of your exact line bc of the lack of traction due to our clay/mud. Also the trails tend to be tighter and the kickout prove quite valuable. Remember these do add leverage on the outriggers for the right hit.

In your consideration remember there are inherent strength gains available in material (dom vs hrew) BUT it still all comes down to the quality of construction ie good welds/gussets/etc. I prefer bolt on bc ability to work on exhaust etc easier but there was also some discussion about toyota saying you shouldnt weld on the frame. I cant recall the thread but it was a S.american member
 
you want them to hold up to reasonable abuse but they have to be sacrificial at some point. In a hard enough hit the forces have to be transferred somewhere and I would rather the slider bend than the frame of the truck where they are attached.
 
I made mine best of both worlds, I would say it is Premium on a budget.
2K, no offense intended but I would consider yours to be an example of properly done budget sliders. The reason I say this is because they are 1/8" wall round main tubes vs. 3/16" square. I like what you did with yours.

Perhaps I should have described them as Heavy Duty vs. Standard Duty.
 
This is good info. Thank you all for your input.
Currently, 300+ views, 2 (3rd party) stories of failures, 2 damaged sliders.
Of the failures: 1 was a DIY George's which appears to have not caused truck damage
1 was a 4x4 shop which did lead to truck damage

Original hypothesis: Premium sliders offer no more protection than budget, failures would occur at the mounting/frame interface (bending or breaking) and allowing the main tube to impact the body.
Early conclusions: I was wrong. Terrain dictates what style you need.

Please keep the replies coming, even if it is to say that your sliders have taken abuse and held up. I will revise my conclusions as more info comes in.
 
2K, no offense intended but I would consider yours to be an example of properly done budget sliders. The reason I say this is because they are 1/8" wall round main tubes vs. 3/16" square. I like what you did with yours.

Perhaps I should have described them as Heavy Duty vs. Standard Duty.

Thanks, it worked out better than I thought and I can unbolt it whenever I have to work on the exhaust which helps.
 
I guess final thoughts, if you want beef cake sliders... 2x3 .120 wall or greater with a .120 wall 1.75 round tube kick out and lots of legs (ours are 2" .120 wall square tube) with scab plates and gussets. If you bend that you'll have more problems. However, 2x2 .120 wall is plenty strong.

Also just to clarify from my last post, my sliders are not ones we make, I ordered them online from larger company, they're just 1.75 .120 wall round tube mains and kick outs with the same legs and they bent.
 
2x3 example for a Tacoma
DSC01036.jpg


and the frame plates and gussets used

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I'm not sure anyone makes anything like this for the Land Cruiser but these are the beefy bolt on ones.

Might be worth looking into if you want bolt on, but most fab shops are pretty busy and these take a lot of time and if it's a one off deal they might be pretty expensive but maybe theres already something out there like em.

2012-07-13_18-04-19_455.jpg


Just some ideas. :)
 
Heres a pair of tube tube all pros bending. Not sure on wall thickness, think .120 1.75"

allprobend.jpg


I don't mean to target all pro here, more just tube/tube sliders like mine (which also bent) that are not all pro.
 
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Marlin Crawlers budget Tacoma sliders are built of a USA HREW tubing which is said to be 10%stronger. The length works on the 80. Check out my link in sig. Thats my truck before the 315's.

AND THIS IS MY 1000th POST!!
 
Dear god it's cool to see a late model truck that beat up.

2012-07-13_18-04-19_455.jpg

Your sliders are sick, I've never seen a mount system like that before. Any shots of them on the truck?
 
I guess I shouldn't portray myself as a rep of his company haha, I'm just a friend and I put in a few hours every now and then. :P

That being said here are a few pictures.

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and since you like beat up 2nd gens

Heres a set of weld on regular hybrids I know get beat on

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He's building me an 80 bumper next week. :D
 
It really does depend on the terrain. as you can see, the rocks are relentless!

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photo 3.webp
 

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