Slave cylinder adjustment clarification (8 Viewers)

[bhsdriller]

Put on a new slave and master and trying to adjust everything. Do you do it with the spring on? Where are you looking for that 4-5mm of release for end play?

What i'm doing now is with the spring on it pulls the fork against the slave cylinder rod. I'm adjusting to where (don't know the full terminology) the other end of the fork inside the bellhousing with the throw out bearing has play between it and the clutch.
I know you don't want it resting on the clutch itself

 

[klinetime574]

The early style clutch (FJ60) with external return spring should pull the throw out bearing away from the clutch disk. So you would be looking for play there. Sounds like you’re doing it right.

 

[bhsdriller]

Ok Thanks. It's an 82 btw so has the spring like the diagram

 

[bhsdriller]

Ok had time to mess with it this weekend. I'm out of adjustment on the slave cylinder rod and there's still not enough play. Looks like i'm around 2mm or so and I feel like the bearing is still riding on the clutch disc. Spring can't pull it back any further

Anyone ever seen this?
If I took off the locknut I bet it would be enough or even got a thinner locknut

 

[CruiserTrash]

You're on the right track here. The early trucks have space between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate. The later trucks do not have that gap and are adjusted differently. I've installed a couple slave cylinders on early trucks and always had plenty of threads for adjustment, which leads me to ask a couple questions:

What brand is the slave cylinder?

Are you sure the TO bearing is mounted on the fork correctly?

Are you sure the fork is on the pivot point (inside the bellhousing) correctly?

 

[bhsdriller]

You're on the right track here. The early trucks have space between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate. The later trucks do not have that gap and are adjusted differently. I've installed a couple slave cylinders on early trucks and always had plenty of threads for adjustment, which leads me to ask a couple questions:

What brand is the slave cylinder?

Are you sure the TO bearing is mounted on the fork correctly?

Are you sure the fork is on the pivot point (inside the bellhousing) correctly?

Thanks for the reply. It's an Aisin from Cruiser Corps with a brand new master cylinder from them as well.

No i'm not sure honestly. It's new to me and just got it driving. It shifts fine but what led me to look into it further is i'm getting a metallic whirring sound in neutral that sounds like a bearing riding or rubbing on something that goes away right when the clutch pedal is pushed in. It got me investigating and I thought I needed more adjustment to get the bearing away from the clutch in neutral.
Maybe the bearing itself is just bad?

Not sure on the fork either. Got the below pic if it shows anything.

 

[CruiserTrash]

That photo looks like the TO bearing is on the fork correctly. Inside the bellhousing is a mushroom-shaped piece that the fork pivots on - maybe investigate that. If the fork has some twisting or up and down rotation/movement, it's likely not seated on the pivot. The whirring definitely sounds like the TO bearing is resting on the pressure plate though.

Did they send you the later 60 Series slave cylinder by mistake? If you still have the box you could check that.

 

[bhsdriller]

I'll have to check on the pivot point and the model as well, might even have the old one to compare it too.

But it's adjustable where the newer ones aren't so unless the rod on them got switched don't see it being that.

 

[bhsdriller]

This might be a dumb question as i'm learning how it all works mechanically but on these early ones with the return spring, at idle in neutral would the throwout bearing be spinning?

Edit: Got my answer from searching it shouldn't. Which it definitely is, with the inspection plate off while running can see it. So I need to adjust it more, but out of adjustment on the slave which leads back to the original question

 

[toy_tek]

This is an H55 swap but using the early 60 clutch parts. I can’t see how much of your actuating rod is extending past the fork end, but based on the lack of threads it almost looks like your rod is installed backward (if that’s even possible)?

I have mine adjusted so the bearing is not spinning with the clutch out, just a tiny bit of clearance.

Few more pics for reference. Hope this is helpful.

 

[bhsdriller]

I can’t see how much of your actuating rod is extending past the fork end, but based on the lack of threads it almost looks like your rod is installed backward (if that’s even possible)?

Thanks for the pics. The whole threaded portion of the rod is on the other side past the fork end. I installed it as it came out of the box. 'll have to check it out but I guess anything is possible

 

[CruiserTrash]

Is the rod pulled too far out of the slave cylinder body? The piston and o-ring can pop out when the cylinder is not installed. Maybe it got installed that way and the piston is off center so it wont go back into the body.

 

[65swb45]

If all else fails, shave an 1/8” off the rounded end of the pushrod that sits inside the slave cylinder, file a new dome on it, and call it a day. That’s a tip from my Asian cousin:

Lo Tec.

 

[toy_tek]

Do you have play at the pedal?

 

[bhsdriller]

Yes, I have some play before I can feel it start to work.

I was thinking if it was way out of adjustment at the pedal, so the master is engaged even when my foot is off it could give me these symptoms? Like the clutch pedal was pushed down slightly even though it wasn't.

 

[toy_tek]

Yes, I have some play before I can feel it start to work.

I was thinking if it was way out of adjustment at the pedal, so the master is engaged even when my foot is off it could give me these symptoms? Like the clutch pedal was pushed down slightly even though it wasn't.

Disconnect the pedal from the actuating rod to confirm or eliminate that possibility

 

[bhsdriller]

threw away the old slave cylinder but kept the rod they're the same. I did disconnect the pedal from the master linkage but ran out of time to test further last night.

 

[CruiserTrash]

So the rod is sitting further out than it did before. That could explain my theory that the piston got pushed all the way out and isn’t going back in for some reason.

Line up the adjusting nuts and take another photo of the rods side by side to see what I mean.

 

[bhsdriller]

Ok I see what you're saying i'll have to look into that

Not sure how well clutch worked with the old setup I just changed it all when I baselined it. But looking at the old rod it's been adjusted like that for a while so was probably fine

 

[bhsdriller]

So the rod is sitting further out than it did before. That could explain my theory that the piston got pushed all the way out and isn’t going back in for some reason.

Line up the adjusting nuts and take another photo of the rods side by side to see what I mean.

I'm not home with the slave cylinder but how are they assembled or what keeps the piston in? The schematics i've seen and rebuild kits show two seals on the piston but don't show anything on how it's assembled. Does the piston somehow just sit in cylinder?

Do I need to unhook the line to the master, try and push the piston back in and put it back on the bellhousing. Then install the hydraulic line and bleed?