Builds Slamfire's 80 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Out with the old in with the new. All new OEM stoppers, strikers, struts, Hatch handle, battery tray hardware and rear tag light assembly.

replacing OEM parts is becoming an expensive obsession..
5661EA97-4FBC-486D-9310-191352FF7408.jpeg
21933FC3-7F23-4A93-BD74-3A262CB38F12.jpeg
FBFFFDDB-626B-4928-9132-830642527662.jpeg
D185DDCA-59BE-40CB-AEA6-F1304E160915.jpeg
703636BB-C54A-4771-B013-3FC37A81822F.jpeg
 
41629241-6726-47F4-A0E0-CF2BD1212B95.jpeg
13FC58C9-96CF-47B5-9674-FD258D7E1348.jpeg
8A79498F-627C-41E0-A6B1-5A2378AC66F4.jpeg

Alucab is off. Frontrunner rack is going on. Decided to add two new 100w solar panels to the rack as well.
 
5C8967F8-B5B2-484B-A27E-DB8CF9D48C59.jpeg

no tent before rack get installed

03F51A77-BEB3-4DED-935E-86F9D321A034.jpeg

Delta radius arms going on next week. This should be a better solution than the bushings and should give me a little more positive caster.
 
Looking back through your pictures I see that it’s not.
Chrome Molly axles are not a good choice for full time rigs 🤷‍♂️
 
Looking back through your pictures I see that it’s not.
Chrome Molly axles are not a good choice for full time rigs 🤷‍♂️
I know right? It’s totaled now. Part out time.

On a serious note. Chromolly axles are perfectly fine to run in full time rigs. Especially when you grease them properly.
 
I know right? It’s totaled now. Part out time.

On a serious note. Chromolly axles are perfectly fine to run in full time rigs. Especially when you grease them properly.
Ok it’s your Rig.
 
Out with the old in with the new. All new OEM stoppers, strikers, struts, Hatch handle, battery tray hardware and rear tag light assembly.

replacing OEM parts is becoming an expensive obsession..
Will you be doing the top hatch striker and latch? My latch lost the plastic cover and the FSM shows a hammer for maintenance. Assuming they want you to torch it and smash it with a hammer to adjust lol. On the list going on 20 years now as the top hatch doesn't shut well. Last I saw, they were NLA. Hoping someone finds a working part number for me on a build...
 
Will you be doing the top hatch striker and latch? My latch lost the plastic cover and the FSM shows a hammer for maintenance. Assuming they want you to torch it and smash it with a hammer to adjust lol. On the list going on 20 years now as the top hatch doesn't shut well. Last I saw, they were NLA. Hoping someone finds a working part number for me on a build...
I have no plans to since that striker and latch are in perfect condition.
 
I happily run RCVs in my full time rig - regular 4340s, not 300M. No issues. What's the reason we wouldn't run CrMo axles in a full time rig? Spline wear?
Correct, Accelerated wear of all parts including Burfields
 
Delta 3” rear panhard bracket Installed. This was not as easy as I thought it was going to be. Had to deal with one of the coils lining up right in front of the bolt hole as well as the airbag being in the way.

Also dealing with those tricky UCA’s was not fun.

4255BA10-FECC-4642-9996-B2D28C936F75.jpeg
F4BCB03E-16C2-439E-BBD3-FFEED9B4B1CF.jpeg
 
Finally got knuckles taken care of, along with installing the RCV axles, new DBA rotors, new OEM pads, new tone rings, and all new bearings. Pretty much everything was replaced. Since the calipers are about 5 years old I left those alone.

5156F439-E6C9-4260-A3A6-5CB61FE23F0D.jpeg
162FF62C-A6F0-40C3-B4D0-76ECE880273B.jpeg


Also threw on a set of @Delta VS radius arms. This way I can have proper caster and maintain OEM bushings.
08424337-3FD4-472C-8362-9B029B5BC791.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom