Builds Skreddy’s 70 Non-Resto

[Green Bean]

Curious. Did you run your compression test on a cold engine or was it warmed up or do you think it even matters? The reason I ask is I ran compression tests on our cold engine and was getting ranges from 130 to 110. I was thinking, though, of running again on a warm engine for comparison purposes.

 

[Skreddy]

I only did it cold. Usually I like to do both, but has both diffs draining for a fluid change and we were heading out for the weekend. Normally with good/decent numbers cold, I’m not so worried about a hot test. I usually like to see similar numbers and no more than 10% difference between adjacent cylinders. Technically I’m about there because 3 and 5 were 140 psi.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

So....

What direction are you going to go w/the Sniper Install? What’s on your short list.?

And....

This thread is understated. Built in patina, cool factor of the hook, just the right upgrades...Sleeper.

 

[Skreddy]

So....

What direction are you going to go w/the Sniper Install? What’s on your short list.?

And....

This thread is understated. Built in patina, cool factor of the hook, just the right upgrades...Sleeper.

I was between in tank or inline pump. My biggest concern for inline was pump noise. I messaged a few people on here that have done the sniper and got their feedback and sounds like with the common walbro pump, noise is not a concern. I need to modify tank anyway for a return line so wasn’t concerned with adding the in tank pump if I went that route. I plan on aluminum or nicopp hard lines except tank to frame, frame to engine I’ll use short lengths of soft line. Planning full length feed and return, not the corvette style with built in return. And I think the “gold” version of the sniper. That’s what I’ve got nailed down for now. Still reading install threads.

 

[Skreddy]

I could analyze and research forever on what’s best but finally decided screw it and just ordered the black sniper unit, Mr. Gasket manifold adapter, 3/8” aluminum tube and a bunch of black earls fittings. Going to go with the in tank pump setup as well. I will likely just make my own carb to air cleaner spacer and waiting until I start installing before I figure out my throttle cable. Also ordered new shifter shaft seals and a trans top cover gasket because I’m leaking somewhere up there. Figure while the tank is out, pop the trans cover and fix those.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I could analyze and research forever on what’s best but finally decided screw it and just ordered the black sniper unit, Mr. Gasket manifold adapter, 3/8” aluminum tube and a bunch of black earls fittings. Going to go with the in tank pump setup as well. I will likely just make my own carb to air cleaner spacer and waiting until I start installing before I figure out my throttle cable. Also ordered new shifter shaft seals and a trans top cover gasket because I’m leaking somewhere up there. Figure while the tank is out, pop the trans cover and fix those.

Solid. Please document thoroughly with detailed pics. Makes it easier for me to steal your best ideas.

 

[MDH33]

Looking forward to the results.

Let me know if you want to unload your take-off carbs. I'm always looking to add builders to my collection to tinker with.

 

[Skreddy]

A package from Mark’s Offroad arrived…. Pertronix! So excited! My wife could not care less.
Here’s what I started with; vac advance distributor I’ve held onto forever for some reason.

Why not just run it as is?! Because a little clean up, add a Pertronix and it’s almost too good looking to install. But I will. Get rid of that vac retard distributor.

 

[Skreddy]

I just couldn’t wait. Had a few minutes after dinner so I lined up the timing bb and rotor pointing to #4 cylinder, pulled the old distributor, installed the new one, marked the +/- wires, pulled it out, soldered and shrink sleeve terminals and back in. I profiled the carb float bowl and I t fired right up and had it pretty close to timed. I let it warm up and a short drive then set timing. The vac can is right against the oil dipstick tube so I’m probably going to have to move all the wires on the cap 1-2 places for better alignment (maybe wrong cap? I just reused the one off the vac retard distributor).
Happy to report, stumble off idle is still there. Phew! All this sniper stuff I ordered wasn’t a total waste! But now that the ignition is sorted, I’ll feel better when the sniper does go on.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I think you are spot on sorting this 1st. It’s one less variable to contend with during your install.

 

[Skreddy]

I just couldn’t stand that distributor clocking; literally woke up thinking about it last night. I was trying to keep it in the standard “point rotor at #4” position. Decided screw it and reclocked it to point right between cylinders 3,4 with bb at the mark. Much happier with where it is now and the range of movement it has. No before pic but the advance can was between dipstick and pushrod cover.

 

[Skreddy]

Cruiser is running great with the new distributor and pertronix. Vacuum advance is hooked up and all. Still have that stumble but a few boxes showed up to help with that.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Cruiser is running great with the new distributor and pertronix. Vacuum advance is hooked up and all. Still have that stumble but a few boxes showed up to help with that. View attachment 2941352

High steppen’....

 

[Skreddy]

Was a good news/ bad news (more like expected inconvenient news) kind of day. Working 12 hour nights this week but a 2 and 5 year old don’t understand why I’m so lazy and sleeping all day; so in bed at 6:30 am, up at 10 am! As a result, I had some time to start tearing into the sniper install. Removed seat, fuel tank, trans tunnel cover and found what I expected: leaking shift shaft seal causing my trans dribbles, good thing I ordered the seals for this already.
Also removed all fuel lines, carb, fuel pump and air cleaner. Set the adapter and sniper on and confirmed another suspicion; the inconvenient one. The throttle body and master cylinder would like to inhabit the same physical space. I had a feeling this would happen and my remedy is to ditch the power booster and just run the 80 master cylinder manual style. No big deal I don’t think, just need to make a new bracket or modify the existing for the 3 hole to 4 hole. Will be a few days before I’m back on this because we are going to see family and maybe a small side excursion….

 

[mrboatman]

Now that's definitely a clearance issue. I wonder if the 2GC Small Bore has a smaller foot print. @thecrazygreek might know.

 

[Skreddy]

Now that's definitely a clearance issue. I wonder if the 2GC Small Bore has a smaller foot print. @thecrazygreek might know.

Eh. Booster’s just coming off. I’m fine with manual brakes.

In other news, transmission top plate is apart, resealed and back together. The top shift shaft seal was really egg shaped. Replaced both and the gasket and it’s back together. Everything in the trans looked good, little tooth wear on the 1st gear face, probably PO trying to shift into first at anything more than a crawl. Nothing I’m concerned about. Going to take a bunch of measurements while the cover is off and see what mods it would take to fit a 4 speed under there, just in case.

 

[Skreddy]

Sniper install!

The last few days I’ve been spending a bit of time each day before work (ugh, night shifts) getting the sniper conversion installed. I believe I’m ready to fire it, but now have to wait until tomorrow afternoon. Going to double check everything then see what happens.
Here is how I went about my sniper install.
I chose the black 2300 with Mr. Gasket adapter and in tank pump from Tanks, Inc. along with their fuel filter kit with quick disconnects. I am running full supply and return hard lines in 3/8” aluminum with Earl’s 3/8” vapor guard hose from the body to frame and frame to engine. I used dual fuel line separators from Racetronix.
I approached the install in 3 “phases”. 1st was sniper itself. 2nd was fuel pump. 3rd was fuel lines.
I started with my coolant fittings. My shut off for the heater had a drip and I knew my block drain was clogged (I tried cleaning it when engine was out with no success). So I put the sniper coolant temp sender in the front port on the head and got a T fitting to plumb a new heater shutoff and also the factory temp sender for the gauge. I want to keep the factory gauge functional. I have superhuman strength and busted the original sender so had to get a napa one while I wait on the correct part from Toyota.

After that, I modified the Mr.Gasket adapter (opening up the holes to match Toyota bolt pattern). I also had to make a small relief for the PCV port in the factory spacer. Since I won’t be running power brakes, I may cap this port and use the one on the sniper, unsure so far. Then installed the adapter and the sniper.

I had already removed and plugged the unused wires in the harness so all I needed was to drill and weld the O2 sensor bung and run the harness wires and mount them. I mounted the relay and fuse off of an existing bolt in the 4wd mechanism. This runs the wiring over the rear of the valve cover, which I’m not thrilled about, but it is what it is. Secured all wires and this phase is done.

 

[Skreddy]

Phase 2: in tank pump. I went this route for a few reasons. First, I was (probably foolishly) worried about noise. Primary reasons though were because being a 1970, my tank has no vent or return port so both would need to be added. There’s also not a lot of space along the frame rail to mount the pump and I didn’t want it outside the frame. So, let’s cut a big hole in a perfectly good tank…. I drained all the fuel and then dropped in a match to get rid of any vapors. That is a terrible joke! I drained the gas and then rinsed the tank thoroughly with soapy water. I also left the tank about 2/3 full of soapy water while cutting the hole and while tack welding the ring on. Then a few good rinses, add a magnet for shavings and slosh around a bunch, then a few rinses with a couple gallons of gas before assembling. They say to mount the pump tray running side to side. I wanted it in the deep spot in the tank and between the baffles, but near the back, out of the way of the sending unit. Lots of measurements and a call to Tanks, Inc. to be sure and I made my cut and also shortened the tray by about 1.75” to fit without modifying the baffles. Set up depth, tack weld in the flange ring and bolt the unit in.

 

[Skreddy]

Phase 3: Running lines. This is probably the most challenging and my favorite part. I cut a hole in the floor to run the dual lines through, using a spare grommet I had for the firewall heater lines. I put a piece of rubber hose over the hard lines where they pass through to seal it up. I bent up the lines from tank to where they’ll meet the soft lines to frame. Flared for tube nuts/sleeves and cleaned up with scotch brite for a matte finish. These lines actually make a turn toward the frame under the body so they were a pain to get right and to snake in.

Next I ran the lines in the engine bay. Started at the sniper end with the return line: I knew I’d want it on the bottom of the stacked lines. Then, feed line, adding in a fuel pressure test port.

Last, I ran the frame lines since I now knew where I wanted both ends to land. Mounted the filter with quick connects and the soft line directly to one end for easy future filter changes. Snaked them up and over the body mount and frame, keeping clear of transfer case linkages. I used 2 rubber lined line clamps to hold them in place. Connect both ends with the vapor guard soft lines and I’ve got a fuel system!

 

[Skreddy]

Last items I need to finish up are mounting the throttle cable bracket, shortening the cable and adding the Lokar cable end. I also need to make my 3 bolt to 4 bolt master cylinder adapter since I’m ditching the booster for real estate: this will entail shortening a brake line at minimum. Lastly is to make the air cleaner adapter from the stock housing to the sniper. I have all the pieces for that but wasn’t a priority at this time.
Oh, made a fuel pump block off plate and put that in too.