Builds Skreddy’s 70 Non-Resto (2 Viewers)

[Skreddy]

Great write-up, Ben. Thank you for the very useful information and photos. I'm planning on doing the same thing this weekend. Fantastic job on your instrument cluster as well!

If you’re no longer 3 on the tree, no need to tap as EWheeler and I were saying. Goes quicker because no column shift linkage to worry about too.

 

[EWheeler]

Mine did NOT come tapped with the threads. It looks like it’s drilled the proper size for the M10x1.25 tap already but no threads. Maybe newer ones weren’t threaded? Unlikely? Small annoyance but I forgot to include that part.

I don't think any of them come tapped - at least I haven't seen a photo of a new one with threads. I had to do the same as you, I tapped it as provided, no additional drilling, and the threads looked perfect.

 

[firemanj92]

Mine did NOT come tapped with the threads. It looks like it’s drilled the proper size for the M10x1.25 tap already but no threads. Maybe newer ones weren’t threaded? Unlikely? Small annoyance but I forgot to include that part.

That's interesting, mine came tapped last year. I know there are 2 versions depending on build date of course.

 

[EWheeler]

That's interesting, mine came tapped last year. I know there are 2 versions depending on build date of course.

Now that would make more sense. These are probably for the floor shift models. Never crossed my mind. I didn't actually search for the right part number, when I saw these were available through someone's thread here on MUD, I was so excited I just copied what they had ordered - they had a 350 and auto, no column shift, so maybe there is an earlier part number that is actually prepped for the column shift.

 

[Skreddy]

Same; copied another part number provided. But when I entered it in online it showed “fits your 1970 Toyota Landcruiser”. Probably all supersedes to the later, non-threaded?

 

[MDH33]

Great info guys, thanks. I have that turn signal switch replacement on my soon to do list as well for my '69 fj40.

 

[mrboatman]

So does that part # 84310-60022 come with both parts or just the electrical lower portion?

 

[Skreddy]

So does that part # 84310-60022 come with both parts or just the electrical lower portion?

Both pieces. Includes the lower electrical portion with the long actuator rod AND the upper portion with the signal lever and cancelling parts.

 

[Skreddy]

The rusty piggy I bought had a 1970 carb in a box of parts in the back so I rebuilt it today and went for a good, 60+ mile drive (I know because my Speedo is accurate and odometer works now). It runs way better than the one that came with the 40. Only issue I have is a stumble/bog from idle to get going or a pop out exhaust when shifting gears. Need to look into it more but when I give it throttle, it seems like the butterfly moves too early compared to the accelerator pump squirt. We will see. But the long drive is showing my engine leaks are gone, just the very slight one from tranny. But damn! That plastic 6 blade fan I put on is loud! Sounds like the engine is just screaming but it’s all fan noise.

Parts coming out of the carb dip…

 

[MDH33]

Awesome. What jets did you go with?

 

[Skreddy]

112/200 and 90 for slow jet ? It was just recommended jetting out of the factory manual. I am basically sea level and expect to see up to 5000’ a few times a year. Otherwise 0-3500’ mist of the time.

My mistake above: 90 power valve jet. Slow jets are whatever came in the keyster kit from Cruiser Outfitters.

 

[MDH33]

I settled on this for 1000 feet elevation, and it's running great (F145)

120 primary
180 secondary
60/80 slow jets
80 power jet

When I lived above 8000 feet and had a 2F powered 40, I was running a 112 main

You might be a little lean with that 112, which could cause the stumble

 

[greenbeasty]

There ain't no hookworm nor laziness in you !!

 

[Skreddy]

Well I’ve been driving it a lot the last few days and overall, am quite pleased. Still have that stumble when giving it gas. (More on that in the next paragraph). I actually went in a ditch because of it! Driving around and the 2 year old needed to potty so pulled off on a 1 lane road in and let her do her business. Narrow road with steep, deep ditches and I was turning around in the road. Because the stumble, I have to quickly pump the gas to rev up and then can start moving. Well, road had a slope toward the way we were facing and I couldn’t pedal it, get it to rev, use the brake and the clutch all at once and we started going in. Looked soft but nothing I was worried about so I let it roll the rest of the way in: facing perpendicular to the road, nose down at a 45 degree. Both kids and wife started panicking but I just got out, locked the hubs, 4 low and barely gave any gas and it came right out.
Now, that carb. It’s coming back off and apart today to reclean: maybe I missed a passage or something. Accel pump stream is weak the first half of its travel. I’ve got about 18” of vacuum, timed about 8 degrees btdc and idling nicely at 750 rpm. No issues with the carb any other rpm except this off idle bog. Covering the carb with my hand I get no stumble. Choke on and no stumble (but then rpm is higher). So I figure it’s got to be in the idle or accelerator pump circuits. The mixture screw does make a difference in idle quality, but all the way in it still won’t die so there’s something there.
70+ on the freeway with 1 loose hand grip on the wheel.

And groceries/fishing supplies!

 

[MDH33]

When you have the carb off, try swapping in a bigger main jet. 112 is too small I think. Do you have a 118 or 120?
Double check your timing. What distributor are you running? Vacuum advance?

 

[Skreddy]

My distributor is a vacuum retard so it is unhooked. Seems to run best at about 8 degrees advanced. Not yet ruling out that it could be distributor related. I have a vacuum advance distributor I might try, but it needs a good clean up first.
I have some spare jets I can try. I don’t think this issue is a main jet problem though since it should be low enough rpm/vacuum signal that it’s not running on the mains yet. I pulled it today and I’ll give it a good look and back on in the next day or so.

 

[Skreddy]

Pulled the carb apart and blew air through passages, ran fishing line through where I could. I poked a huge ball of what looked like fur out of the accelerator pump nozzle: much better stream now. I was excited and got it back together but still have the stumble off idle. It’s better, recovers quicker and doesn’t die but it’s still not right. I don’t believe it was doing this with the other carb I had on there that had the bad throttle blade shaft so I may try it again and see. If that one doesn’t do it, maybe I’ll switch the lower body between the carbs and see if that makes a difference. Tempted to try one of those $75 carbs I see on Amazon but not giving up yet.

 

[MDH33]

Did you replace the pump plunger when you rebuilt the carb? The rubber ones in the keyster kits are pretty crappy. The leather ones give a much better burst of fuel. Did you try changing that main jet while you had it out? Maybe @FJ40Jim will chime in with ideas.

 

[Skreddy]

I did use the keyster plunger. While I had it apart, I filled the bowl with fuel, stuck my finger over the accel pump nozzle cavity and pushed down on both plungers. They seemed to squirt the same, but who knows. Did not replace the main jet yet. But it’s on the list.

 

[Skreddy]

I believe I am going down the sniper rabbit hole. I cannot tune out this off idle stumble, also, my float bowl is completely dry after an hour or so of shutting off. Starting after a few days takes 3-4 minutes of cranking. Something ain’t right. My ultimate goals for a cruiser I keep was lift and good shocks (check), AC (not yet) and EFI…. Well EFI is getting moved up the list.
I didn’t want to do it and have issues, so I ordered a pertronix from Mark to go in a vacuum advance distributor I have. I’ll get that in and running properly first. Today I did a compression check to ensure I was not starting off with an uphill battle. All plugs look great, if anything maybe on the lean side? 140-150 psi in all cylinders except number 4 is 125-130. When I bought this engine, it had been sitting unknown years in a shop and we got 110 psi out of number 4 but 140-150 on the rest. So it’s up from where it was and I’m good with the number, even though lower than I’d like to see compared to the rest.