Show me your (Clean) V8 Engine Bay! (1 Viewer)

[toyotaspeed90]

Bolts, studs, wingnuts whatever floats your boat. Load spreaders are a must. Good thick ones, not the cheap dress up chrome bling style. Just use a good gasket and don't over torque. If your covers are stamped steel, spend some time making sure there are no dimples on the gasket surface under the bolt holes.

Well, load spreaders are a must on stamped steel or thin walled aluminum covers....

I have a set of nice OLD M/T valve covers... they don't even have space/provisions to use load spreaders on them (essentially being built in).

I plan to use tall wing nut valve cover bolts.... My rig only came with 6 out of the 8 and I liked the look... so I purposely sought after a set that were in rough shape so I can have a matching set.

With my rig... it has all of the signs that it was built "to be cool" in the 70's or early 80's... I want to sort of keep it that way.... make it a great runner, reliable, and safe... but sort of rat-rod'ish when you open the hood. We'll see how I manage to pull it off.

 

[nordwind]

383 - Radiator in the back

 

[oldmuddog]

383 - Radiator in the back

Nice looking 40s' on here. Inspirational. nordwind, what kind of paint, looks great.

 

[murf]

I like your exhaust routing solution

 

[fieldsken1]

383 - Radiator in the back

why are you using a dry sump system?????????????

is the body going to clear the water tubing and the exhaust going over the bell housing???

 

[nordwind]

"paint"
It is epoxy paint, I've poured everything together what I found, this dirty brown - green came out. It's made of 5 layers, primer-paint-stone guard-primer-paint.

"dry sump system"
well, I've read about it, I've never owned one, I was intrested, I wanted to play around with it, I do not know how it will turn out, what I do know, it's a pain in the neck to install.

"clear the water tubing "
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/615277-donkey-build-up-fj40-part-2-a.html

 

[fieldsken1]

"paint"
It is epoxy paint, I've poured everything together what I found, this dirty brown - green came out. It's made of 5 layers, primer-paint-stone guard-primer-paint.

"dry sump system"
well, I've read about it, I've never owned one, I was intrested, I wanted to play around with it, I do not know how it will turn out, what I do know, it's a pain in the neck to install.

"clear the water tubing "
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/615277-donkey-build-up-fj40-part-2-a.html

I have done a lot of dry sump systems but I don't know why you would put one on a 4x4 or any street car

 

[TCSTARK]

Ken - what is a dry sump used for?

 

[Diskord]

It's really used in race cars, elimantes oil sloshing.around in the pan when cornering and possibly losing oil pickup. Also will eliminaye the possibility of the crank churning through the oil, aerating the oil, and losing hp just because the crank needs to slosh through the oil. You can also have as much oil volume as you want to, beacause the reservoir is a seperate tank.

Sent using my Star Trek communicator thingy

 

[fieldsken1]

It's really used in race cars, elimantes oil sloshing.around in the pan when cornering and possibly losing oil pickup. Also will eliminaye the possibility of the crank churning through the oil, aerating the oil, and losing hp just because the crank needs to slosh through the oil. You can also have as much oil volume as you want to, beacause the reservoir is a seperate tank.

Sent using my Star Trek communicator thingy

That's why I am wondering why in a 4x4???

Like I said I have installed plenty in race csrs

 

[Cdaniel]

I could see the benefit of a dry sump if your 4x4 spends a lot of time running in a perpendicular to horizontal attitude.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I'm pretty sure the answer to this reason why he installed a dry sump is the same reason all of us gear-heads do half the stuff we do...because we can. Is an ulterior motive necessary?

Loving this thread! Thanks for all the pictures!

 

[bikersmurf]

I happened to still have them in the trunk of the Parts Hauler/Daily Driver, so I snapped a shot.

They do have thick bosses.

I'm thinking about these wire looms to organize the spark plug wires:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnm-1101-90-s

Although I'm not sure how well that would work with Ram's Horns.

I'm thinking it might also make sense to run long studs to mount the valve covers. That way I can keep the covers tightend down, and remove the spark plug wires as a unit by pulling the looms. with bolts, I'd be loosening the valve covers as well.

I'd find or make a stock configuration set... If it helps, posts 17&18 ware from a Sept 1969 BelAir... Much tidier with Ram Horns IMHO.

Never considered mine to be overly clean. These pics are from this thread...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/448066-sbc-swap-manual-steering-2.html

I find the stock ignition wiring to be much tidier.

 

[nordwind]

as I have said. I like to play around with it and I think that there is no harm to my engine.

but there are also advantages,

-one thing that I really like, a very low oil pan, you can say almost no oil pan which clear's up space for drive shaft and axle and let you install the motor lower
-adjustable oil pressure
-your truck runs on almost any angle without starving on oil or pistons hit the oil (specially made dry sump oil pan)
- little or no foam or air bubbles in the oil
- larger oil volume
-one a dry sump, all oil is pumped through the filter without dry sump oil which runs through the bypass valve is not filtered.
-it makes it easy to add and install oil cooler and remote oil filter
-and important, have fun with technical stuff

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I'd find or make a stock configuration set... If it helps, posts 17&18 ware from a Sept 1969 Bel Aire... Much tidier with Ram Horns IMHO.

Bikersmurf -

It looks like the spark plug "dreadlocks" are just hanging down the back of the engine in those shots - doesn't look like there's a loom at all. It definitely gets them out of sight but I'm not sure I see whats preventing them from melting to the manifolds...

 

[bikersmurf]

Bikersmurf -

It looks like the spark plug "dreadlocks" are just hanging down the back of the engine in those shots - doesn't look like there's a loom at all. It definitely gets them out of sight but I'm not sure I see whats preventing them from melting to the manifolds...

The generic Accel wire set had more length by the distributor than I'd like, but it has worked well since 1996. One could certainly add an extra separator or four to tidy the wires by the distributor. At the back of each head, there is an inline 4 wire separator bolted on. From there, the two rear wires go directly to the plugs, and the front two go through a bracket attached to the edge of the oil pan. I've run the front two between the engine mount and the block (a decision I may one day regret). Stock had a clip to hold them... Or something. In 17 years, I've never melted a wire... Or had any other problems with them.


Here's a thread with some better pictures of how they were meant to look...
http://www.jims59.com/69belair/
(towards the bottom)

I see a couple of exta factory spacers, which would keep them tidy above the valve covers (not sure what happened to mine).

 

[tmarx]

I like your exhaust routing solution

Me 2 !!

 

[Teebag]

Don't have an engine bay - but getting there

 

[stringtwelve]

Great thread! Subscribed... because this thing needs a lot of inspiration:

 

[Snowdogyyz]

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