So I started swapping in my 327 chevy I got out of a '63 corvette. Its got the ramshorn manifolds on it and Im having some trouble fitting it in. It seems like the manual steering box is going to have to go. If I offset the motor and trans to the passenger side to provide steering box clearance, the transfercase hits the frame. So I did a little searching and it seems everyone has switched to power steering once you swap in a SBC. That gives me a problem because a '63 SBC has no accessory mounts besides the alternator which mounts to DS manifold bolts. Has anyone been able to keep manual steering or am I just going to have to do powersteering and make custom mounts. I have heard of some older hot rod places that have made powersteering pump mounts for thesee motors. Any help is appreciated, Thanks
SBC swap with manual steering (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 70LCruiser
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You can use fenderwell headers to clear the box (Tight but will clear), or go to the power steering.
Do you have a vac or manual transfer case? I assume your '73 has the manual version.
Shawn
Do you have a vac or manual transfer case? I assume your '73 has the manual version.
Shawn
Power steering is very nice to have anyway, you might try Alan Grove brackets, I got a high mount passenger bracket for my alternator and it was very nicely done. A type 2 pump with a remote res. would be the most compact. The FJ60 PS is pretty bolt together and gives decent clearance for the motor. A larger radiator can be used with the 60 PS but you will have to mod/make a rad support.
your sig says 36" tires .. do yourself a favor and go saginaw now since the motor is out...
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050b~Z5Z5Z5ABYOX~P249.00~~~~~~~F
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050b~Z5Z5Z5ABYOX~P249.00~~~~~~~F
- Thread starter
- #5
Ok guess im going with powersteering. The truck has a manual transfercase, and it does have 36" tires and surprisingly the steering was fine with them. I drove it for all last summer with them and never had a problem, thats why I was thinking about just keeping it manual. My brother gave me a steering box from a 79 Cj7. I believe that is a saginaw box, am I right? Ill probably just use this box since i got it for free!
- Thread starter
- #6
77TPI- Thanks for that link, thats not a bad price at all
FWIW, I have a SBC with the manual steering. With that said, I am switching to a Scout PS setup ASAP. I purchased a serpentine belt system from a mid 90's truck and plan on using that to run the accessories. My one snag is that the mounting holes match up on the heads, but don't exist on the lower part of the block, although there is an undrilled boss. I am just a bit nervous about drilling and tapping it for fear of drilling too deep into a water passage or something.
I've got a 40 with a Sept 69 Bel Air 350 with the original Ram horn manifolds and... Stock manual steering.
Downey conversion kit. Stock 4 speed and T-case.
There are some pictures in my profile... Can't post them right now.
Can take some measurements if you want.
Downey conversion kit. Stock 4 speed and T-case.
There are some pictures in my profile... Can't post them right now.
Can take some measurements if you want.
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FJ60 or Scout give you a little more room for the driver exhaust and you don't have to cut the frame. You do have to trim fender supports/rad supports though so it may be a wash either way. If you go 60 and spend much time on steep hills or rocks port the box for hydro assist while you have it out. Acts like a 1000 psi steering stabilizer too. Should be a kick in the pants to drive after your done.
- Thread starter
- #11
I realy dont spend much time on the rocks, I live in south Jersey so its mainly just sand and mud. Im happy with the manual steering so any kind of power steering would be good enough for me. If I can find a FJ60 or scout box id like to do that, because im not looking forward to cutting my frame, and Im running tube fenders anyway so there is no inside fender to trim.
My '78 has a '67 327 with ram's horns and stock steering. I ended up with about 3/8" clearance between both the steer box and ex. manifold and the xfer case and frame. It will go, and it's in straight, but it's tight. It will also require cutting the trans tunnel to clear the xcase linkage.
If i was to do this over, I'd go power steering. I might still do it! It's tiresome, especially downhill.
My alt. mounts on the driver's side ex. manifold. There are bosses there for it. If these would be any help to you, they were common and can still be located. I can't remember if the heads on older motors (mine has late heads) have any accessory holes threaded in them at all, but all early SBC's have the front motor mount holes like those used in 55-57's. Maybe you could use those for the start of a PS pump mount plate?
I just thought of something. My ram's horns are the common 2" exhaust version. From a 'Vette, they were 2 1/2", I think. This might be why yours won't clear. Those original 2 1/2" manifolds are coveted by the hot-rod and resto crowd. Good Luck!
If i was to do this over, I'd go power steering. I might still do it! It's tiresome, especially downhill.
My alt. mounts on the driver's side ex. manifold. There are bosses there for it. If these would be any help to you, they were common and can still be located. I can't remember if the heads on older motors (mine has late heads) have any accessory holes threaded in them at all, but all early SBC's have the front motor mount holes like those used in 55-57's. Maybe you could use those for the start of a PS pump mount plate?
I just thought of something. My ram's horns are the common 2" exhaust version. From a 'Vette, they were 2 1/2", I think. This might be why yours won't clear. Those original 2 1/2" manifolds are coveted by the hot-rod and resto crowd. Good Luck!
- Thread starter
- #13
The manifold size could be a good reason to why its not fitting. You're right about the hotrod guys wanting those manifolds, Ive had some friends offer me money for them and the original valve covers. The motor is all stock and is the 330hp one i believe. I just want to get this thing going.
I don't see the manifold size being enough, I've got plenty of space between the manifold and the steering box. Here a couple of older pics.
The one thing I would have done differently, would be to place it 1/2" further back making the f/r driveshafts both the same length.
The one "special" tool I need, to change the plugs, is a 13/16" spark plug socket with built in universal joint.
The one thing I would have done differently, would be to place it 1/2" further back making the f/r driveshafts both the same length.
The one "special" tool I need, to change the plugs, is a 13/16" spark plug socket with built in universal joint.
70Cruiser, sounds like it'll be a fun ride!
I know you are aware of this, but if it's an original, period-correct 327 from a '63 'Vette it is a rare bird these days. I can sure understand about "getting it going". I'm that way, too. Have you thought about it's swap value? Just a thought, is all. Have fun!
I know you are aware of this, but if it's an original, period-correct 327 from a '63 'Vette it is a rare bird these days. I can sure understand about "getting it going". I'm that way, too. Have you thought about it's swap value? Just a thought, is all. Have fun!
POTATO LAUNCHER
TLCA #6928
SPEEDWAY Motors has RamsHorn style manifolds. I have no experiance with these but these style manifolds were hard to find not that long ago.
YouTube - Speedway Motors Tru-Ram Exhaust Manifolds
YouTube - Speedway Motors Tru-Ram Exhaust Manifolds
- Thread starter
- #17
I know these engines are rare, I got it from some muscle car guy in PA. Thanks for those pictures btw, and if anyone else has more pictures of the engine placement with clearance to the box id realy appreciate it. It would help me find the right spot to place the engine
I'll see if I can snap some more photos and take a couple of measurements also.
I figured out the position based on a combination of info from Downey and AA conversion manuals. Also some trial and error.
I'd like to give you some photos as well, but cave-man that I am I don't have a digital camera.
I did this 25 years ago, so details are vague. I used an Advance Adapter kit that included side motor mounts that you weld in and a rear mount that attaches at the cover on the back of the xfer case. This mount spanned the width of the frame, and used mounts welded to the inner frame wall. Basically, AA told me to "move the motor forward enough so the heads clear the firewall, and over to the pass. side enough to clear the steering". It was trial fit and I think it went about 2" both ways. You could easily go forward with the motor more, and it may well help ex. manifold clearance. I don't know the year of your rig or how it's set up, but on mine the 4-spd stick got into the heater box as it was and I had to trim the bottom of it and made a little off-set on the stick. As a suggestion, you might give the guys at AA a call, they were helpful to me. Also, Dorman makes new 2" ram's horns, I think both with and without alt. mount and Hedman has a block-hugger style header they call "tight tubes". These use a flat, "spread" style, 4-1 collector that might be better for clearance.
I did this 25 years ago, so details are vague. I used an Advance Adapter kit that included side motor mounts that you weld in and a rear mount that attaches at the cover on the back of the xfer case. This mount spanned the width of the frame, and used mounts welded to the inner frame wall. Basically, AA told me to "move the motor forward enough so the heads clear the firewall, and over to the pass. side enough to clear the steering". It was trial fit and I think it went about 2" both ways. You could easily go forward with the motor more, and it may well help ex. manifold clearance. I don't know the year of your rig or how it's set up, but on mine the 4-spd stick got into the heater box as it was and I had to trim the bottom of it and made a little off-set on the stick. As a suggestion, you might give the guys at AA a call, they were helpful to me. Also, Dorman makes new 2" ram's horns, I think both with and without alt. mount and Hedman has a block-hugger style header they call "tight tubes". These use a flat, "spread" style, 4-1 collector that might be better for clearance.
- Thread starter
- #20
I have the rams horn manifolds on the motor already, I think I might have to raise the motor up higher in order to clear the box maybe. I keep on moving it around but evrytime i get clearance there I end up losing clearance on the transfercase. Its a lose lose situation lol. I know Ill figure it out, its just a matter of time. Thanks for everyones help
