You can get to most of the frame without removing the body. Take a portion at a time. Body mounts can also be done with body on. Lift enough to slide them in.
Should I tear it down? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter andrewbridges1
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It’s not a bad idea to pull it…
When I swapped in a new frame it took about 100 hours work. Between pulling the new frame at the wreckers, stripping it, sandblasting, 4 coats of paint, putting the body & front clip, swapping everything to the new frame, and reassembling everything,
Two people would make it faster… but you’re probably looking at a weeks work… or 2-3 weekends. I’m not saying this to discourage you, but just to help you understand it’s not something you’ll have done in one day or even a weekend.
Go for it.
If you’re better equipped and faster than I was when I was in my teens… more power to you.
When I swapped in a new frame it took about 100 hours work. Between pulling the new frame at the wreckers, stripping it, sandblasting, 4 coats of paint, putting the body & front clip, swapping everything to the new frame, and reassembling everything,
Two people would make it faster… but you’re probably looking at a weeks work… or 2-3 weekends. I’m not saying this to discourage you, but just to help you understand it’s not something you’ll have done in one day or even a weekend.
Go for it.
If you’re better equipped and faster than I was when I was in my teens… more power to you.
- Thread starter
- #23
I was planning on doing this slowly over the winter between school and work. I think I have all the tools I could need. Space is the biggest issue
This is awesome! Totally something I’d do! Had the same HF hoist they work great. I did something similar for an engine swap on my 69 40 in a tight very sloped carport. Hoist up and roll back, very nice shop there and burro saw horses!
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
That’s what I was gonna say. I wouldn’t take it apart.
You'll likely have most of the tools needed. Take lots of pictures, and there are lots of people here to help.
The one tool that can be extremely helpful is a hot-wrench (Oxy-Acetylene torch). When I was unbolting the new frame from the donor vehicle one of the body mounts broke... fortunately, one of the mechanics at the wrecking yard hit it with his hot wrench (since I hadn't brought mine. These days you might be able to get away with a reciprocating saw... but 30ish years ago, I hadn't even herd of them and definitely didn't have one.
With a couple large screw drivers you can remove the stick shift. Ask when you get there... I'd bet there's a video out there somewhere that explains how to pull it.
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- #27
shoot if the shifter is that bad I'll just lift the tub up over it and not worry about it
It’s quite easy… the hardest part is figuring out if it’s clockwise or counterclockwise that the retainer needs to be turned. I haven’t messed with one for 26 years so I don’t remember off the top of my head.
I’d definitely put the trans in neutral and pull it. Removing it is well worth the effort.
Here's a video that shows how to remove it... It's way easier to remove it than try to lift the tub off while it's in place. On thing to note is that all of the Landcruiser transmissions I've ever seen have a 1 piece stick and none of the parts he is replacing in this video. It's probably because it's a 5 speed, but I can't say that for certain since I've never messed with any 5 speeds. My 40 is too old, when it was made a 4 speed was the upgrade over a three speed that was standard a few months before. My 40 still had a "three speed" clutch & transfer-case even though it was a four speed, but they weren't changed till somewhat later in production.
I figured out how to fix, repair, and change most of the things I've done in the dark age, before the internet was a big thing. My stone tablet and chisel wouldn't show me videos.
It made doing disc brake conversions far more of an adventure having to fly blind and figuring it out as I went.
I figured out how to fix, repair, and change most of the things I've done in the dark age, before the internet was a big thing. My stone tablet and chisel wouldn't show me videos.
It made doing disc brake conversions far more of an adventure having to fly blind and figuring it out as I went.
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No matter what you do just make sure you keep this build thread updated. We want to feel your pain. We also would rather not see it torn down and then never completed so keeping this thread updated will give you some pressure to keep working on it.
We are looking forward to this!
We are looking forward to this!
You dont need a lift
There's nothing about that job that two people cant do......you'll need an engine hoist/jacks etc but there's nothing difficult about the job
You should cross post this to the redneck thread
Nice job....gave me some ideas for my upcoming teardown
Or the Darwin Award thread. My first thought was to hang it from the rafters, but the wife vetoed that one
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
I'll be the devil's advocate here.
Lifting the tub because you're updating your suspension is like re-roofing your house just because you're renovating your basement: they're both good things, but not really connected to each other.
If all you want is a fun truck to bop around in, take a weekend and do the suspension, and maybe the tie rod ends etc if you're feeling ambitious. As others have said, lifting the tub off the frame will turn it into a much bigger project that might have the truck off the road for months or even years.
Also, painting isn't necessarily the best way to prevent rust. Treatment with a rust converter and then repeated applications of Fluid Film or a similar product is likely to have better results in the long run. Sometimes paint just hides the rust until it's too late.
Lifting the tub because you're updating your suspension is like re-roofing your house just because you're renovating your basement: they're both good things, but not really connected to each other.
If all you want is a fun truck to bop around in, take a weekend and do the suspension, and maybe the tie rod ends etc if you're feeling ambitious. As others have said, lifting the tub off the frame will turn it into a much bigger project that might have the truck off the road for months or even years.
Also, painting isn't necessarily the best way to prevent rust. Treatment with a rust converter and then repeated applications of Fluid Film or a similar product is likely to have better results in the long run. Sometimes paint just hides the rust until it's too late.
I agree… I have replaced the frame, disc brakes on both ends, built a rear tub, SBC conversion, onboard air, transmission swap, rebuilt a hardtop, Scout II P/S conversion, and a ton more.
All of which I’ve done solo and most of which I figured out on my own without outside help.
Done with basic tools plus an engine hoist, floor jack, and an engine stand.
A welder helps too, Most was with oxyacetylene, then stick, and most recently mig.
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It all depends on what you want to do - there's definitely a "while you're in there" aspect, but if you plan on tackling a few areas anyway, a lot of the stuff is much much faster and easier when it's stripped down vs fighting around the body. ie, new brake lines, fuel lines, tidying up a ragged wire harness, timing cover gaskets, exhaust.
I did mine top-to-bottom, but the chassis alone is definitely a smaller job than the bodywork and bits and bobs...and every time I have to work on anything now, I annoyingly recall how easy it was when there was no body in the way.
I did mine top-to-bottom, but the chassis alone is definitely a smaller job than the bodywork and bits and bobs...and every time I have to work on anything now, I annoyingly recall how easy it was when there was no body in the way.
I really need a gantry crane......Or the Darwin Award thread. My first thought was to hang it from the rafters, but the wife vetoed that one
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- #38
I have all that minus the engine hoist and stand but I can snatch one from school
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