Should I remove and replace or reseal? (Power Steering Pump) (1 Viewer)

[Desertmedic80]

So this weekend in addition to posting BS here on Mud and power drinking I was able to knock off a few more tasks on ye' ol' land cruiser. However, while laying on my back contemplating my life's bad decisions that brought me to this place, I realized a few things. One, I had to pee again. Two, the neighbors are probably about to call the cops because the music is way to loud and three for the love of all things holy can these things leak POL products from any more places. Now my power steering pump is leaking. So as the title says is it easy enough to reseal or just better to replace. Of course with a Toyota made pump. Don't want to start that contest. I don't mind spending the money for a new one but who doesn't want to save a little when they can. So now with that little hidden jem of a pump pissing ATF in my driveway that leaves my breaks and cooling systems intact. From the looks of the heater exchange valve that won't be long. I do have another one already with new hoses just have to pick up some constant torque clamps so as to not offend the gods. As for the breaks I am not overly concerned. I have been a paramedic for over 30 years. Everyone else has to wait 8 to 10 minutes for one to arrive after the accident. I will be there immediately. Actually they are in pretty good shape from my initial inspection.

Some of the things that I have been able to accomplish:
1. Front/rear Diffs oil change
2. Transfer Case oil change
3. Engine oil and filter
4. Distributor (complete)
5. Plugs and plug wire set
6. Intake Hose
7. PCV valve, gromet, hose and the little clampy things
8. The other vent hose on top of the valve cover with associated little clampy things

Remaining items include big hose kit, little hose kit, from seal kit and Fuse able Link. I'm not sure on the FL as I have heard that they will be NLA soon and don't want to use the last one known to man. If anyone has any suggestions please comment below. (Is it to soon to reopen that wound)

Naturally all parts replaced were genuine Toyota parts. In fact prior to being shipped from Japan they were blessed by a Shinto priest with holy water distilled from snow harvested from atop Mount Fuji. Money back guarantee some restrictions apply.

I have not included part numbers or suppliers because my Johnson is big enough. (if you have read my other rambling post you will get that joke)

In all seriousness huge shout out to Witz-end, McGeorge Toyota and malted hops and barley. Also, everyone here on Mud that has helped guide me through this. The fun is just beginning.

Cheers everyone have a good week!

 

[fjc-man]

So this weekend in addition to posting BS here on Mud and power drinking I was able to knock off a few more tasks on ye' ol' land cruiser. However, while laying on my back contemplating my life's bad decisions that brought me to this place, I realized a few things. One, I had to pee again. Two, the neighbors are probably about to call the cops because the music is way to loud and three for the love of all things holy can these things leak POL products from any more places. Now my power steering pump is leaking. So as the title says is it easy enough to reseal or just better to replace. Of course with a Toyota made pump. Don't want to start that contest. I don't mind spending the money for a new one but who doesn't want to save a little when they can. So now with that little hidden jem of a pump pissing ATF in my driveway that leaves my breaks and cooling systems intact. From the looks of the heater exchange valve that won't be long. I do have another one already with new hoses just have to pick up some constant torque clamps so as to not offend the gods. As for the breaks I am not overly concerned. I have been a paramedic for over 30 years. Everyone else has to wait 8 to 10 minutes for one to arrive after the accident. I will be there immediately. Actually they are in pretty good shape from my initial inspection.

Some of the things that I have been able to accomplish:
1. Front/rear Diffs oil change
2. Transfer Case oil change
3. Engine oil and filter
4. Distributor (complete)
5. Plugs and plug wire set
6. Intake Hose
7. PCV valve, gromet, hose and the little clampy things
8. The other vent hose on top of the valve cover with associated little clampy things

Remaining items include big hose kit, little hose kit, from seal kit and Fuse able Link. I'm not sure on the FL as I have heard that they will be NLA soon and don't want to use the last one known to man. If anyone has any suggestions please comment below. (Is it to soon to reopen that wound)

Naturally all parts replaced were genuine Toyota parts. In fact prior to being shipped from Japan they were blessed by a Shinto priest with holy water distilled from snow harvested from atop Mount Fuji. Money back guarantee some restrictions apply.

I have not included part numbers or suppliers because my Johnson is big enough. (if you have read my other rambling post you will get that joke)

In all seriousness huge shout out to Witz-end, McGeorge Toyota and malted hops and barley. Also, everyone here on Mud that has helped guide me through this. The fun is just beginning.

Cheers everyone have a good week!

B-Z Rebuilders does pumps and steering boxes. Call 818 703 0821 for a quote. Canoga Park, California.
Oops, I didn’t realize you were talking about the gear driven pump.

 

[LandLocked93]

Having walked both the rebuild and new pump roads, I recommend new replacement so you won't have to screw with it again in your (our) lifetime.

The steering box on the other hand is a diy with the right parts.

 

[Desertmedic80]

B-Z Rebuilders does pumps and steering boxes. Call 818 703 0821 for a quote. Canoga Park, California.

I would definitely consider something like that if the 80 wasn't my daily. But, whatever I take off on Saturday morning I have to put back by Sunday evening. Good info to have for anyone searching for something like that. Thanks for the reply.

Having walked both the rebuild and new pump roads, I recommend new replacement so you won't have to screw with it again in your (our) lifetime.

The steering box on the other hand is a diy with the right parts.

Thats pretty much the way I am leaning. Just afraid if I try to reseal it will fail and I will end up doing it again with a replacement. Do you recommend replacing the high pressure hose at the same time as well? Some advise that it is a no brainer but just checking opinions.

 

[LandLocked93]

Thats pretty much the way I am leaning. Just afraid if I try to reseal it will fail and I will end up doing it again with a replacement. Do you recommend replacing the high pressure hose at the same time as well? Some advise that it is a no brainer but just checking opinions.

If you don't know its history and it doesn't appear to be any newer than the truck, yeah I'd do it regardless what you were doing to anything else.
However, doing it while you're doing the pump will save you alotta ATF compared to doing each separately.

edit:just be sure to be gentle getting the pump gear off, and as precise as possible getting it on the new pump. I was careful af (i thought anyway) and still ended up with a faint knock when reinstalled. I'm good with it since I know what it is making the noise and it goes away (or is drowned out) just off idle. So no biggie in my case.

 

[Desertmedic80]

Ok I think taking your advice is my best bet at this point. Not sure about the HP line really. Looks covered in oil like the rest of them. Add that to the cart as well. It's only money and if we really liked it we wouldn't be driving these things for sure.

 

[Kernal]

Where is the leak coming from? The rear or side of the pump? Or from the high pressure hose banjo bolt union??

 

[Malleus]

I rebuilt my leaking pump years ago, it runs like new. There's not much to go wrong inside, so if it's not screaming at you, it's probably still fine. The high pressure hose is another story. That area's hard to clean without removing the batter, battery box and alternator, but that's a place to inspect. There's no fixing it once it starts; your only option is replacement.

 

[BILT4ME]

If it was me for my DD (and that's what mine is)

I would buy a new replacement pump
Fill the rear plug with epoxy (on the new pump to prevent a future blow-out)
Remove the old pump and pull the gear
Install the gear on the new pump.

I would buy all new hoses (including the paperclip cooler hose) and brass washers and install them all at one time.

I would either buy a NEW PS reservoir or remove, clean, and reseal the top of the old reservoir.

All new ATF or whatever the hydraulic oil is that someone recommended.

Flush the PS gear with new, fresh fluid.

When I first got mine, I replaced all the hoses and that fixed my leaks except for the reservoir. I have since bought a new reservoir, but have yet to install it. I cleaned and sealed The Right Stuff around the lid to the canister of the old reservoir and it slowed the leaks, along with a new cap.

 

[93yotasr5]

I rebuilt mine. Pretty straightforward job. While you’re in there I would change the high-pressure hose as well as low pressure hose along with flushing all of the fluid out and removing the Reservoir and cleaning that out. It will save you a lot of money and you can buy the Toyota Branded rebuild kit. I’m pretty sure wits end has them on their website. I got mine from eBay and I use the link below. Additionally the fusible link is readily available and I have a brand new one that was ordered from eBay.

fj80 and lx450 ps pump rebuild

decided to do a little write up for the 1FZ-FE PS pump since i didnt see one in FAQ. this follows the FSM but i try to add better detail and explanations. this particular pump came from a '96 LX450 first thing is to remove the pump from the car...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Kernal]

The PS pump in my 96 model has had a few leaks, first the dual crush washer on the high pressure hose 20 years ago, replaced, still dry there. Then the small O-ring on the suction pipe, replaced 10+ years ago, still dry there.

Then a small seep out the back a few times over the past 15 years. Once I added ?? brand stop leak, then another, maybe Lucas (the thicker stuff) and the leak slowed down to about nothing. Then switched to Mobil DTE 24 to get rid of the whine (it did quiet down), but then started to get a small seep after ? 5-10 years, nothing hitting the pavement, just an occasional drop hanging off the rear of the pump. Then added another stop leak, seep stopped last I looked. Fluid level staying steady for ? 5 years.

Point is, over the past 20 years that pump still works even with a few on and off small seeps. I've left it alone knowing that if I pull the pump it will sit on the work bench for a few months while I ruminate and plan out my master rebuild plans, and as that is my back-up vehicle for when the others are down I haven't messed with it. So I've learned (sometimes) to leave things alone that are still working.

ps: I have a new pump, reservoir, and pipe-hose assembly sitting in my parts stash
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Freedom is never Free

 

[Desertmedic80]

I rebuilt mine. Pretty straightforward job. While you’re in there I would change the high-pressure hose as well as low pressure hose along with flushing all of the fluid out and removing the Reservoir and cleaning that out. It will save you a lot of money and you can buy the Toyota Branded rebuild kit. I’m pretty sure wits end has them on their website. I got mine from eBay and I use the link below. Additionally the fusible link is readily available and I have a brand new one that was ordered from eBay.

fj80 and lx450 ps pump rebuild

decided to do a little write up for the 1FZ-FE PS pump since i didnt see one in FAQ. this follows the FSM but i try to add better detail and explanations. this particular pump came from a '96 LX450 first thing is to remove the pump from the car...

forum.ih8mud.com

I was joking about the FL. There is a thread going on now that has spiraled into the depths of internet forum hell over the fusible link. You should look it up. Great read for sure.

 

[93yotasr5]

lol I read it and laughed for sure! I just wasn’t sure if you had seen the thread.

 

[Mat Jadamec]

I replaced the pump (swapped old gear on to new pump) and steering gear about 2 mo. ago on my 1994. The steering gear had been rebuilt once already and was getting "questionable". I put in a red top rebuilt unit and glad I did. I did relay and tie rod plus all ball joints a few years ago. It now has the Best steering its ever had. I replaced most of the hoses, disassembled and cleaned the reservoir, and flushed the cooling lines before refilling. The pump was leaking out the back seal and also leaking engine oil at the o ring with the block. I followed the FSM on the gear removal and install. I used lead flashing to line the jaws of my bench vise (after trying and failing with plywood liners).

 

[Saito]

I picked up a rock auto rebuilt pump when mine started to leak. Would advise against that now that I’ve learned better. Read here that those pump housings get hot tanked and that weakens the hold the oring on the little plug in the back of the pump has and it’ll come out eventually. Mine did last July after only being installed for 3ish years. Luckily the system will run sans fluid for quite a while w/o damage. I’ve got two complete pumps now(thanks to partsouq), gear and all. So I’ll have a freshly rebuilt one on standby.

 

[LandLocked93]

The PS pump in my 96 model has had a few leaks, first the dual crush washer on the high pressure hose 20 years ago, replaced, still dry there. Then the small O-ring on the suction pipe, replaced 10+ years ago, still dry there.

Then a small seep out the back a few times over the past 15 years. Once I added ?? brand stop leak, then another, maybe Lucas (the thicker stuff) and the leak slowed down to about nothing. Then switched to Mobil DTE 24 to get rid of the whine (it did quiet down), but then started to get a small seep after ? 5-10 years, nothing hitting the pavement, just an occasional drop hanging off the rear of the pump. Then added another stop leak, seep stopped last I looked. Fluid level staying steady for ? 5 years.

Point is, over the past 20 years that pump still works even with a few on and off small seeps. I've left it alone knowing that if I pull the pump it will sit on the work bench for a few months while I ruminate and plan out my master rebuild plans, and as that is my back-up vehicle for when the others are down I haven't messed with it. So I've learned (sometimes) to leave things alone that are still working.

ps: I have a new pump, reservoir, and pipe-hose assembly sitting in my parts stash
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Freedom is never Free

That's a 'Wednesday' pump for sure.
I have 2 OEM 'Friday' pumps that leak and whine in my parts stash.
And one has already had the 'rebuild' treatment. lol

 

[alia176]

I learned few things while rebuilding, then reusing the oem PS pump. I think it's an easy thing to rebuild using the oem seal kit but extreme care must be taken with the sprocket. Even if you purchase a new PS pump, you still need to move the sprocket/gear from the old pump to the new one. So, just be mindful of not scratching up the gear. I re-used a sprocket from a spare pump that had been nicked by the PO but didn't think much of it until I installed it in the 80. Holy schmoly, the whine, oh the WHINE was terrible. My daughter said WTF is THAT sound?

Second thing that got me and I didn't realize it until my rebuilt pump leak peaked my frustration and decided to purchase a brand new pump. This is the low pressure hard line that gets bolted to the top of the pump. It's a easy thing to deal with and there's a tiny O ring that should be replaced when you rebuild your PS pump. In my case, this &^%$#@ hard pipe didn't get seated properly into the pump and seeped after the reseal job. This went on for months and really annoyed the crap out of me. So I bought a new NAPA pump when I really didn't need to. Well, the new NAPA pump leaked at this junction too for the same exact reason. It wasn't the NAPA pump that leaked or made any sound, it's the stupid hard pipe that had a bent flange and didn't seat properly.

In order to avoid this annoyance, I suggest replacing the O ring on this low press return pipe, then bolt the thing to the pump on the bench. Be sure the fitting is nice and flush and everything is seated properly. Then put this assembly back on the engine. Incidentally, when you buy a brand new PS pump from Toyota, this is how the assembly comes - tube is already attached to the pump!

 

[Desertmedic80]

I learned few things while rebuilding, then reusing the oem PS pump. I think it's an easy thing to rebuild using the oem seal kit but extreme care must be taken with the sprocket. Even if you purchase a new PS pump, you still need to move the sprocket/gear from the old pump to the new one. So, just be mindful of not scratching up the gear. I re-used a sprocket from a spare pump that had been nicked by the PO but didn't think much of it until I installed it in the 80. Holy schmoly, the whine, oh the WHINE was terrible. My daughter said WTF is THAT sound?

Second thing that got me and I didn't realize it until my rebuilt pump leak peaked my frustration and decided to purchase a brand new pump. This is the low pressure hard line that gets bolted to the top of the pump. It's a easy thing to deal with and there's a tiny O ring that should be replaced when you rebuild your PS pump. In my case, this &^%$#@ hard pipe didn't get seated properly into the pump and seeped after the reseal job. This went on for months and really annoyed the crap out of me. So I bought a new NAPA pump when I really didn't need to. Well, the new NAPA pump leaked at this junction too for the same exact reason. It wasn't the NAPA pump that leaked or made any sound, it's the stupid hard pipe that had a bent flange and didn't seat properly.

In order to avoid this annoyance, I suggest replacing the O ring on this low press return pipe, then bolt the thing to the pump on the bench. Be sure the fitting is nice and flush and everything is seated properly. Then put this assembly back on the engine. Incidentally, when you buy a brand new PS pump from Toyota, this is how the assembly comes - tube is already attached to the pump!

Thanks for the heads up. I will most likely not rebuild and just purchase a new blessed Toyota pump. But it is good to hear other folks on here say that they gladly beat their heads against the Land Cruiser wall trying to maintain these things like I have been doing. Misery loves company I guess.

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks for the heads up. I will most likely not rebuild and just purchase a new blessed Toyota pump. But it is good to hear other folks on here say that they gladly beat their heads against the Land Cruiser wall trying to maintain these things like I have been doing. Misery loves company I guess.

It's very worthwhile to read up here about a given issue you are working on. Many here have done it before and they have posted their results, good and bad.

For me, I have tried aftermarket parts because my son worked at O'Reilly and we discovered that it just wasn't worth it to remove and replace the same part every couple of years when the Toyota part lasted for 20+ years. Was the Toyota part more expensive? Yes, from an instant out-of-pocket point of view. However, when my time is worth a LOT more now than it used to be, I'll buy the Toyota parts any day and I would install them on my old Chevy if they would last longer than the crap I get for it.

 

[Desertmedic80]

So I finally got around to setting the timing after the distributor (complete with cap and rotor), plugs and wires were replaced. Initially I set it by idol (650 rpm) at operating temperature with everything off. Was running fine but noticed that it smelled a little rich and when I filed up the other day I logged a whopping 9 mpg. Which is about 1.5 down from before a complete tune up with all blessed Toyota parts. So I bought a cheap timing light and wow was I off. So to explain how off I was imagine where the 3 degree mark is. Go clock wise past the 0 degree mark and continue on your circular journey about another inch and that is where my timing was lining up. Can't believe that it would run as smooth as it did that far out of time but it was. I will see in the morning if it drives any better but really wasn't having any problems before with it out of time. Really interested to see if my mileage comes back up.