Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
If it's the clasis " clak clack clak " sound at each turn on the key .. hard to say, but yes .. you gonna be involved in the PITA process .. pulling out the starter.
I bet brushes ..
Sheila's evisceration and birth of an HJ62 -> Tofudebeest
- Thread starter Tofudebeest
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If it's the clasis " clak clack clak " sound at each turn on the key .. hard to say, but yes .. you gonna be involved in the PITA process .. pulling out the starter.
I bet brushes ..
- Thread starter
- #262
Yes, 62 dash, currently with 62 gauges (except the tach). The HJ60 gauges are in my shed, easily swapped in though. The problem with that, unfortunately will be the loss of the brake dummy light (which I could relocate elsewhere). In the 60, two brake lights (parking and brake hydraulic pressure loss lights) were together immediately above the steering column. In the 62, you've got a seatbelt dummy light there and a brake dummy light (dual function) is in the oil, water, fuel, and battery cluster, at the bottom along with the battery light and high beam light.
- Thread starter
- #263
No clack, just the barely audible click. It doesn't turn.
And if brushes, are they easily replaced like the plunger and contacts, or is there soldering to be done? If so, I may just take it to a shop to be done correctly.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
not soldering involved IIRC or at least I never do in mines ( 2H and HDJ80 )
- Thread starter
- #265
Nope. Brushes do require soldering, so says the Man.
- Thread starter
- #266
BTW, Tofu started up on the first try the three times I starter her today to show off...
Unless the starter acts up, I'm leaving it alone...
I have PLENTY still left to do without going into functioning stuff to tweak it.
Unless the starter acts up, I'm leaving it alone...
I have PLENTY still left to do without going into functioning stuff to tweak it.
get the 3fe sending units and be done wit it. you are making things more difficult then they need to be.
- Thread starter
- #268
$ brother. The coolant temp sending unit is like $17, but the oil pressure sending unit is closer to $50. As you know, I have debts to pay before I start spending too much dough elsewhere (and when I really have a decent alternative). My t-case rebuild kit is gonna set me back $185 alone, not including shipping.
As Deo says: "use what you have to get what you want". What's easier than using the extra gauge cluster (from Sheila) that I have in my shed? I can also easily use the brake light line and fit it into a new indication location. Sounds easy enough to me...
As Deo says: "use what you have to get what you want". What's easier than using the extra gauge cluster (from Sheila) that I have in my shed? I can also easily use the brake light line and fit it into a new indication location. Sounds easy enough to me...
verify that the senders are not on the 3fe. It they still are then use them.
In light of a tight budget, time to get resourceful and creative. Used senders could suffice. There’s always the wanted ads or the “parting out” ads here on Mud or other bulletin boards. Someone will have them and you’ll have $20 in them by the time they get shipped to your house.
Have you identified where the transfer case is leaking? It could just be a flange seal or something easy. Worst case if it’s the idler shaft seals and case has to be split, case gasket is $18, “o” rings under $5 from Toyota.
Have you identified where the transfer case is leaking? It could just be a flange seal or something easy. Worst case if it’s the idler shaft seals and case has to be split, case gasket is $18, “o” rings under $5 from Toyota.
- Thread starter
- #271
I can certainly thoroughly clean the thing and take it for a quick spin around the block and see if I can tell better where the leak is. As it sits now, the underside and ass of the truck is coated in 90W evenly, making it next to impossible to determine where the leak is. I do know this: The tranny to t-case seal is bad because I had to use over a gallon of gear oil to fill the almost brand spaking new tranny.
Tell ya what...if you can make it down earlier than planned, you can help me figure this out and possibly help with whatever degree of t-case rebuild is necessary, and also pick up your parts. I'd like to not wait nearly two months though (you were coming the first week in December, right?), I'm tooling around town and commuting on a borrowed scooter, and it is going to get pretty cold (for FL) pretty soon.
Why had I not thought of pulling the sending units from the 3FE sitting in my yard?! That's the best idea I have heard in months.
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I am by no means an engine building machine shop, they know best. All I'm saying is that any time we are designing things and we "press" (light press fit or not) a sleeve into a bore, the inside changes diameter. No, I don't design anything for an engine... just tooling for making other stuff.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
- Thread starter
- #274
Well, it's acting up again, but it will remain as is for the time being as I have plenty else to do.
OK that friggin oil pressure sender...
I yanked the one from the 3FE and put it on the 2H. Recall, the gauge is the 3FE's. Well, I turned the vehicle over (after many tries) and the gauge shot up beyond the hash marks to its mechanical limit. Even 30 seconds after I shut her down, the needle was still pegged at the top and then slowly came down.
So...2H motor, 3FE oil sender and 3FE gauge...not right.
2H motor with 2H oil sender and 3FE gauge maxed out about 1/3 the way up the gauge.
Presumably the 2H motor gets much higher oil pressures than the 3FE.
Lastly, I see the coolant temp sender in the Haynes (no, I do not have the FSM. Yes I know, shut up), and clearly on the 2H (staring up at you, right next to the radiator, perched up nice and easy to get to, but for the life of me, I can't find it on the 3FE. It is in the water pump?
OK that friggin oil pressure sender...
I yanked the one from the 3FE and put it on the 2H. Recall, the gauge is the 3FE's. Well, I turned the vehicle over (after many tries) and the gauge shot up beyond the hash marks to its mechanical limit. Even 30 seconds after I shut her down, the needle was still pegged at the top and then slowly came down.
So...2H motor, 3FE oil sender and 3FE gauge...not right.
2H motor with 2H oil sender and 3FE gauge maxed out about 1/3 the way up the gauge.
Presumably the 2H motor gets much higher oil pressures than the 3FE.
Lastly, I see the coolant temp sender in the Haynes (no, I do not have the FSM. Yes I know, shut up), and clearly on the 2H (staring up at you, right next to the radiator, perched up nice and easy to get to, but for the life of me, I can't find it on the 3FE. It is in the water pump?
Did you hook up the wire correctly? On some of the sending units there is a little tab for a ground and if you connect the wiring to the ground you'll fry your gauge. The small t-post in the center is the correct spot for the wiring. I killed one this way, only difference in readings with what you observed and what I did is that with mine it initially registered high, then afterward very low.
very cool evisceration!
- Thread starter
- #277
Ya know, was afraid to mention that. The 2H oil sneder had no tab on it, just the nipple, which did not seem at all like an electrical connection, and I didn't look closely at it when I pulled the plug from it. Then, when I was comparing the two, the obvious difference made me wonder if I had broken off the connection somehow on the 2H's, but no evidence of it. So, I thought that maybe there was a washer with a tab on it for the plug and had fallen off when I removed the sender...but couldn't find it. So, when I put the 3FE unit on there I jsut attached the oil plug to the obvious tab. YOU TELLING ME THAT THE ROUND NIPPLE WILL SOMEHOW TAKE THE SAME PLUG? What's the chance that I fried it? Also, where the hell would my ground be (none, huh?)
That is what he is telling you.
No need to ground.
Just slide tab over the nipple.
The gauge is prob ok.
You will know once it is hooked up correctly
- Thread starter
- #279
It is not OK, the needle drops below where you can see it, and will not climb to even the first hash mark. $32.50 from Cruiser Outfitters. Not a terribly expensive lesson.
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What brand pyro did you buy? That's my next upgrade...
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I want throw my lift springs under there soon... I have heard it unwise to reuse your U bolts. If the threads look good, is it still considered totally unsafe? A new set is not particularly cheap, but if there is a legitimate safety issue, that's not something you want to pinch pennies about.
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What brand pyro did you buy? That's my next upgrade...
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I want throw my lift springs under there soon... I have heard it unwise to reuse your U bolts. If the threads look good, is it still considered totally unsafe? A new set is not particularly cheap, but if there is a legitimate safety issue, that's not something you want to pinch pennies about.
euclid
SILVER Star
The steel that the u-bolts are made out of actually stretches some when you torquee the u-bolts. That, and the chance that they move a tiny bit when you drive after install is why new u-bolts need to be re-torqued.
You will find pleanty of folks that re-use old u-bolts. I have in the past. The safest way is to replace them.
I've mad so many changes to my suspension over the years that I've gone through tons of u-bolts. I get them at Truck-Pro here in Jackson. They are a big-truck distributer and you may have one in town. I think I pay $12 per u-bolt, and I avoid shipping.
You will find pleanty of folks that re-use old u-bolts. I have in the past. The safest way is to replace them.
I've mad so many changes to my suspension over the years that I've gone through tons of u-bolts. I get them at Truck-Pro here in Jackson. They are a big-truck distributer and you may have one in town. I think I pay $12 per u-bolt, and I avoid shipping.
